Andeh

Combi for primary usage, electric shower for secondary?

Have you got a loft space you could use?

Have you FORMALLY asked NHBC? If not... Would be a shame if one corner was to suddenly get damp in the inside which could be connected to it? Which would(?) trigger their investigation into the subfloor. Just hide the watering can... (Probably £1000 excess, so research that first)

We have Smart Alitherm 600.... they're ....fine? We had a very bad fitter which we are still resolving but overall not much to really like or dislike with them. They just do the job. Builder spec'd them after we struggled massively to get people to quote, approached 7 companies...3 came back to us...Ali therm600 cheapest but more importantly could achieve our timings. I wish we had started the process earlier as we were railroaded into them due to timings & availability. They also (expletive deleted)ed the survey up which we missed, so we have mullions in places we didn't want them - you get used to it though. Just be careful you get the U Value of frame & glass...I was delighted how low the U value was until very late in the process when I realised the bastards weren't including the frame. This uplifted them all to an average of 1.4 which I was disappointed with, but it was too late.

£2500 plus VAT would be closer IMO.

Good work! All the best with your family.

What sort of material is it? Any pics... I'm curious as not come across such a deep worktop before!

75mm is collosal, the cabinets will also need some real attention for their ability to support it!

Just bumping this, we have been fine last few weeks with a 65% humidity and system working fine.... however the last few days it is stubbornly staying at full boost due to humidity. We did have a lot of rain & wind last night, I think blowing in the direction of the vents. When I check the filter, the inlet does seem mildly damp....could this be triggering the boost?? Is it just a matter of waiting for it to dry out & return to normal?

Thanks John, sounds like I'm on the start of the journey you were on. Suffice to say it's dawned on me hard how wrong a situation we are in. If I was to remove the actuators, does that open the zones fully? So if I kept one on thermostat live, controlling one zone... Then deleted all thermostats off our mobile app, then used that one thermostat to set a temperature profile. Would that basically enable control of the whole house against that one thermostat? Once trailed, I could look to disconnect and start dismantling the system. Leaving one thermostat per manifold (we have 1 x manifold for kitchen lounge half of the bungalow, then 1 x manifold for bedroom half of the bungalow).

We completed a bungalow with internal bricks walls throughout, meaning our UFH throughout was zoned 1 per room. Some zones are pretty big & consists of 2 loops or 3 loops per room/zone, but the bedrooms (5 of them), study, play room etc are all one loop/zone per room. What I am realising now, is that we are overly constrained from a zone point of view (wish I had realised this back in the day....). One option is to wire everything back at the wiring centre to run off a single thermostat..... so one 'thermostat' effectively actuates all zones but before I call out an electrician I wanted to check if there were any other options/suggest on how to improve the situation? (as I have a lot of thermostats that become redundant with the rewiring it idea.) Does heatmiser offer anything like this, other then the profile options? Any other ways to 'cheat' and get more zones together other then call back an electrician to rewire it up?

It didn't really come up tbh, I knew from a previous call their engineers are usually 2 weeks to arrive, and having already seen the circuit board I was pretty OK with swapping it out myself. Im sure if I pushed I could have got an engineer out from them. Just quicker and easier for me to take the 20mins and just do it myself!

It's a board, if you remove the front panel towards bottom, you'll see where it is. Not really hard, several screws and just remember where each clip goes. All plug and play,but I colour coded them to be on the safe side!!

C1 is one of the time programs. We had a random boost but with c3. I went crazy with it as it would randomly full boost around 2-4am. No reason at all for it. After a few back and forth with their technical support (who are pretty good actually) they sent me out a new circuit board which I replaced relatively easily. Touch wood, i think it's fixed it for me... But I still find myself waking up in the night, thinking I hear it, and running to check! So far so good though. Im now just in the process of resetting it from defaults one at a time to ensure I don't do something that randomly retriggers it. One bit of advice I was given,but only after I had replaced circuitbboard so never tried it, was to actually set all the time programmes to override the default "00.00.00" and see if that corrects it.... Then reset them again back to "00.00.00".

We had a liquid screed, cemfast or something, and didn't go with a crack mat. We did on the outside patio which sits on a normal concrete slab.

That is very cool! As you can see I posted above wanting to know more, but never got to it due to windows badly delayed. Not tested out house yet. How much did it cost? Which areas did you find drafts small and large, after the initial work put in?

Ah, an overlay system. We had one in our last place, lift up carpets... Lay 35mm (ish?) Insulated trays with pipes cut into them. Thin screed over the top.... It did work, but you could feel the pipes / no piles warmth through the screed. Slower the rads, quick then normal UFH screed in response time. We didn't regret them.

With the greatest of respects, this micro management is probably saving you the cost of a pint a month. Set the dials to 'e' and worry not! Focus on draft proofing and reducing usage!

Next week is looking lovely and dry, warm & breezy... !

What's the plan for drainage?

We have a 300L tank and a 12kw Samsung gen6 ASHP. Family of 5, 3 young kids. Large insulated hot water circulation pump timed for hour morning, hour lunchtime, 2 hours evening. Joules set it to 50deg and a 24/7 on cycle, with it reheating if it drops by 10 degrees. I changed this so it only heats up hot water before we need it. Joules said this would be less efficient - but why do I want 50 degrees sat that all night?? So current timing is: 30mins in the morning to heat up enough for breakfast washing up (gets to high 30s) 2 hours mid afternoon to maximise solar PV (gets to 50degs), and ready for 4.30pm dinner time for kids, our dinner time, bath time for kids and means we have approx 40deg water for showers. The luke warm tank cools down over night. (lows 30s by morning) Disinfect cycle once a week or so - manually engaged when we need more hot water or sunny day! This has been Ok over the summer, but now that it is getting colder, wife wants hotter showers. I was going to add an extra 30min temp boost 6pm ish to get it up to high 40s for showers. However... I am now thinking I might be better off putting the hot water on from 8am to 7pm (ish) all day keeping the tank at 45degrees and being done with the faffing. Reheats when it drops below 35degs. But I am keen to see what everyone does does/any thoughts? Thanks

Hopefully they hold them to account! Not building the underground carpark, to then tarmac over the external green space for car parking is a significant change.

95% probably wouldn't notice anything amiss with it, but he got the bond levels wrong. Cheaper to plant something there and hide it, then ask it to be taken down and started again....

We had a gas boiler randomly coming on when no demand for heat, and traced it back to a failed zone valve??

Forget extra insulation, just stick in cheapest air con unit you can find!