markc

I came off FB around 3 yrs ago during all the remain or leave garbage, best thing I ever did. Sad that I had to say goodbye to several groups that I found really useful (similar idea to BH) but overall it was worth it. I’ve heard market place does have some great bargains but still won’t go back onto FB

So HMRC are gnomist …. Is it systemic? Everything else seems to be lately

Welcome, looks like a fantastic project, looking forward to seeing progress updates, pics and the obligatory problems …. Sorry, but they go hand in hand with interesting builds.

850 extra seems expensive, bottom panels are often film coated as opposed to truly laminated (2x thinner panes with film sandwich). If they are just film covering single bottom pane then it’s a ripoff.

If it’s a stud wall then simply a matter of inserting a strip of timber or ply etc. into the hole, screw through the PB either side to secure the timber in place, cut a fillin piece of plasterboard and screw to the new timber. if it’s dot and dab then cut and insert a few pieces of Plasterboard to make up the thickness.

Certainly not the end of the world, happens regularly … usually much worse

Well done, really happy for you

Hi, couple of points: definitely doesn’t look like MDF. have you used the caulk to form a fillet at the corners as you would silicon sealer? what primer did you use? was it bare wood or previously painted? the paint looks very thick, primers are designed to get hold of the surface so thick applications can affect anything underneath.

No need to weep vent lintels for internal walls …there shouldn’t be any water getting in or condensate forming.

Got to agree, the reason I would clean out the loose from underneath and stabilise the soil with concrete or similar. I used the term underpinning loosely to try and describe what I was thinking.

No problem, old bricks are often too hard for concrete screws. I would go with 5x75 screws in plastic plugs. If when you are drilling the bricks crumble or you bust an edge off then you can drill oversize and use resin and 6mm threaded rod.

Type of fixing depends what the wall is made of, as above concrete screws are fantastic into solid concrete or sound brick. sink brackets are fine onto plaster but if dot and dab plasterboard then you need to cutout the plasterboard and add a timber. screws and fixings can be too thick if they are close together.

Hi, is it that the builders haven’t a clue what to do or they don’t understand what you are asking for? an extension is everyday stuff to most builders. do you have any drawings and or photos so we can better understand the problem and scale etc.

I haven’t seen or heard of anything, then again most of the new builds are cracking and falling apart without defective materials

Wacker plate or walk around on it or use a thumper ( never known real name, heavy block with a long handle). often surprising how far it will compact … you are really just knocking the air pockets out of it

Blinding should be compacted or it will compress when loaded

BCO won’t look twice. Get on with the step down and at the same time beef up the foundation stone. (You are just looking to stop soil erosion).

Lot of civil engineering going into the Patio

I would use the same stuff in the gaps too. regarding the cornerstone, concrete underpinning would be the best description … but don’t let the term scare you.

Got to agree, COVID gave suppliers an excuse to put prices up so they will not be coming back down to pre COVID levels, but there are good discounts to be had now supplies are pretty much back to normal, shipping costs are a pain with container shortage and inflated fuel prices. USA is still buying up much of the European supplies following the fires and increase in demand for timber.

Same dry mix you used for the bed, push it around into the gaps and pack it down. didn’t notice the corner stone before, would have been easier before the slabs but I would now clear away some of the mud and part way under the stone, (going around the side too), bit of shuttering and drop some concrete in, poke it well to make sure it goes right into the void and tight under the exposed corner stone …basically stabilise it to prevent rain washing stuff away. so much easier in my head than to explain.

180 is fine (no pun intended) I have just done a load of solid oak worktops and used 80 grit on a belt sander to take the shear off and then a quick once over with 120. allow the oil to soak in, buff over by hand and fantastic finish hardest part to learn is that tickling the timber while sanding makes the bits show up more, be brave and give it a good overall sand so the oil soaks in evenly

Yes you will be fine

As above, sand the pencil marks first then keeping the dust on the sand (glass) paper do the grease marks, the dust rubs into the grease and helps draw it out of the grain

If this is only a temporary measure (taking the walkout) then as long as you don’t load the joists from above they don’t need anything as they are technically in tension with only self weight causing deflection.