markc

Yes you can assume right is right etc. more difficult when there are two pots and they are in-line not side by side. I would be looking at the capped off one too and maybe getting a vent cap put on instead of it being blocked off. capping needs some work/typing anyway so might as well sort it while you/they are there

Either is ok as the two parts tend to stay apart until part way up nozzle

Chemical isn’t an exact science, amount of resin depends on hole diameter and diameter of the rod you are sticking in it. Assuming 16mm rod then hole should be 18mm so roughly half full would give sufficient fill plus some squeeze out. taking nozzle off and clean end of tube to keep remaining resin from going off. put a bit of squeeze out to one side and you will see how fast it goes off and becomes very hard. hole cleanliness and good mixer nozzles are the key to secure fixing. don’t stress over it, drill the holes, put piece in place, squeeze resin in and twist fixing into hole … counter clockwise ideally as this causes threads to push resin deep into hole

As above, you never know what’s going to happen, I’ve seen walls and roof structures go over, drains collapsed by excavators and tele handlers plus countless subbie accidents.

No way to tell if a liner is good quality or not, just buy from a reputable source. It is not in a suppliers best interest to supply crappy materials or items but seconds do get sold on eBay etc. last time I needed some sealer strip I googled stove door seal and found the stuff I needed

Good morning, at 2.6m I would be going for a lintel, no need for a beam. Birtley do a good range of lintels for timber frame plus blockwork but a quick search will pull up suitable products.

@zoothorn if you are putting timber in place then no need to wedge the threaded rod unless it will always be seen so you need it looking perfect. most chem fix will be hard in an hour to tighten nut (check on tube). If you are unsure, spin nut on finger tight, set all the other anchors then come back and tighten everything up after a day or so.

Put the timber back in place and then set the rods, or push a small twig into the hole under the bolt to keep it level

Yes! 2K is fantastic to use but the vapour is heavy and very harmful. completely different to ‘normal’ aerosol cans where you apply lots of thin coats, 2K you lay down thick and fast

If you are rebuilding later then no

Looking at the layout I would say it lends itself to losing the wall. The L shaped kitchen/diner/lounge would be a great social/family space

Some people have nothing better to do than find things to complain about, ignore it. a few years ago I lived in a street backing onto some waste land (old council garage site) local dumping ground, broken glass everywhere, locals dumped all garden waste etc. one day I needed to move a JCB so decided to clean up the area while I had the machine…. 2 days later a letter from environmental services telling me to remove the rubbish I had dumped.

Have you ever used it? does anyone ever use them? is it a home or a cafe? look terrible takes up wall space needs painting noise transmission a great idea …. Said no one ..ever!

20mm ply? Guessing you mean 18mm. Most floors are 18mm or 22mm chipboard with is cheaper and comes with tongue and groove joints on all edges. ply would be fine but why use it?

No need to cap the bottom, the concrete will no rise very much. postcrete is great, I usually throw 1 bag in to get a hold of a post them when it’s firm use more to fill and poke/mix to behave more like wet pour

Hi, cap the top, no need to paint inside or fill. Do not wrap with plastic, let the concrete get hold of the steel. When concrete is set, mastic or silicon where post enters concrete and also slope top of concrete away to shed water. im guessing these are for a hammock or similar so not structural

Generally right but I would take the board over the flanges to improve adhesion and reduce possibility of leaching or a potential crack line

Send a message, text email (written) saying you need the scaffold adapted or removed or it will be disposed of in 1 week. if no response then take it down and get someone else in.

Gravity is a bitch!

A Larson truss is basically two pieces of timber, spaced apart with rectangles of ply nailed on to form a sort of ladder. simple, strong, light and very easy to make

Hanging a valve in tight fit tile holes is just asking for broken tiles and having to do it again.

I’m with Octopus and always stay in credit and never fix, probably why I get a big discount on standing charges and a good rate. asked to add another account for another place I bought and they put me straight onto same rate so I’m a advocate of staying in credit especially when having the cash in my account would make pennies at best

On top of Pir to reduced gaps and easier to seal etc

I would put the wall membrane under the floor membrane so any moisture/condensation forming on underside of wall DPM would be directed under the floor membrane not on top of it