markc

Weep holes just allow any trapped water behind the wall to escape, as you are using blocks a small (plastic conduit or even 15mm plumbing hep20/etc. is ok) spaced about 2m apart. Put foundations in, first layer of blocks, weep pipes,build rest of wall, pebbles or gravel at bottom behind wall for drainage and to stop weep pipes from blocking up) dpm up inside face of wall and then backfill compacting layers as you go

My experience omg! Been mixing and Laying concrete since I was about 8, built a two story timber frame building when I was 15 (with a 17 yr old labourer) since then I put up loads of steel and glulam buildings and then construction engineer/manager on bridges, football stadiums, underpinning, mining and and and …

The footings sound more than sufficient, the key here is the slope and what it consists of. If you have a smooth slope and simply fill it, you then end up with one wedge on the top of another putting a large side load on your retaining wall. I am presuming you will infill with old bricks/rubble etc. chew up the surface of the slope, cutting terraces is better but at least dig some small holes or indentations, this Allows the fill to get hold of the slope and resist its tendency to move downwards, also don’t forget your weep holes at the bottom of the retaining wall to allow water to escape

Wait for the idiots to call for a ban on PV

Good morning and welcome to you both, @Andy110769 2-1/2 years must have been tiring.

@LSB you break the tops of concrete driven or poured piles. Screw piles are different and each manufacturer has their own ‘head’ for their pile system.

Usually the tops of the piles are broken back to reveal the rebar rods, these are then integrated into the ring beam cages before poring

You have a whole square metre? My god man, that’s enough for a small mill or shaper.

They are being used much more now, the ‘mortar’ is glue so effectively the blocks rest on each other which means the bottom row must be flat and level because it is difficult to correct plumb as you build upwards

Hi, the mix is similar but as you are using it to form a finish or waterproof barrier then it’s render, mortar is the same stuff used to stick bricks or blocks together (although ‘stick’ isn’t strictly correct). As it’s a vertical surface and you don’t want it to sag, mix slightly on the dry side so it doesn’t slump

As above, don’t overthink, just do it. if you don’t have waterproofer already, don’t worry, bit of pva if you have it (also good to prime the hole for better stickage)

Hello and welcome, loads of information on here and it sounds like you will be able to contribute just as much. Quaint looking place you have there

Yes, ring them up and say a truck pulled it down

I had a very bad line, couldn’t get past the new router bit so I called from my mobile and told them a neighbour had cut the line while digging his garden. Engineer straight out (day after) saw it was an overhead line, asked what the problem was and quickly put a new cable in.

Good morning and welcome, what is the issue you have? Flat roofs fail for various reasons and done properly are nothing to be scared of.

As above, unless it’s a very complex roof or joins into an existing then a roof truss company can/will design the roof structure and give drawings and calcs (the design software spits this stuff out).

18mm is more than enough and moisture resistant for peace of mind. Also in case of leaks, seal all the edges with paint or varnish etc prior to fitting (paint the sides after).

I love my air fryer, I use it for just about anything small that would normally go in oven. Great for jacket potatoes, fat free chips (potato or sweet potato) even done small crumbles in it.

New build or refit/modernisation? Also where you intend using them?

Stop tap turned off? Or can you hear a hissing sound at all … underground burst pipe?

Interesting read, it will be interesting to see how members bills go over the winter against their construction and insulation levels etc. I live in a very old draughty ex railway property and love making stuff in my workshop (woodworking machines plus lathe, milling machine, welding equipment etc.) and so far my bills have been really good (or so I feel).

Roof trusses are easy to carry, and depending where you are in the country a spider platform with winch will place roof trusses like a small tower crane. if you can give me more info I can give a more specific answer. Mobile cranes are a big overkill for most truss systems

I would say your suggestions is pretty good

Never found anything that works better then scraping with a low angle blade scraper and then using your finger to rub off the bits that remain.

Got to agree with @Simon R, quite easy to refinish good quality items if they are looking a bit scuffed etc. I’ve had several cabinets and bed frames re sprayed in local car body shops and the finish is fantastic.