markc

@ollie be careful! Do not get sucked in by sales talk. See what they say, post it on here for comments and get a 2nd evaluation/quote. I have an old railway property and no way would a ASHP be suitable but my new oversized combi works well and pretty cheap to run I reckon (much lower than the old much lower powered combi I took out).

ASHP is not just a replacement and likely requires a lot of changes made to the existing. they work slowly and at much lower temperatures so need a large water tank. They also work best with UFH or need much larger radiators. how old is the property and how is it constructed? Loads of members on here are ASHP guru’s and can give specific advice with more info

Pumped will (should) not flow under a vertical shutter unless over poked to make it flow. When pouring a big slab with perimeter walls you do the perimeter of the slab first poking to flow under the shutter, then the middle to allow a few minutes settling and then pour the walls being careful not to over poke causing the slab to move. so do your low level pours first then go back and pour the higher sections allowing the mix to flow up to the shutter.

It will be fine as long as the glass is toughened and laminated and they will want to see paperwork to prove.

Jig is easy to make, trend one is good but overkill. Look on youtube

Still sounds like Bullsh1t. I know what I would get on and lay it, glued and on a decent non insulating underlay but only you can make your decision

Have to be very careful here, the previous owner of my house had put insulation between cellar and kitchen and it caused damp and rot in the floor and joists, I had to rip everything out and now heat the cellar and have no insulation at cellar ceiling. Result is a nice dry cellar and warm kitchen floor.

Electric UFH can can see some big changes in temperature (one left a towel on my bathroom floor and burned my foot when I stood where the towel had just been) but wet rarely gets above 35 deg C, and cannot create hot spots. Plus the laminating process is done at around 50 deg c to cure the adhesive.

Looks good and you have done well. Takes you a bit … well lot more time than most but you get there eventually.

What’s going on next floor down? Have chimney breasts been removed?

Sounds like a bit of bullsh1t. If you glue flooring together it becomes a big piece, nothing weird, magical or sinister. Now if the flooring is very thin or brittle then anything underneath would need to be flat and rigid so soft underlay would cause problems. What is the flooring material, thickness and make up? Some pics would help

No reason for it to be picked up in ‘the plans’ and you can have low level windows but they have to be protected so either not opening at all, or only top part opening and any low level glass must be toughened and laminated

Hi, sounds like you are just re roofing so no reason to involve BC. Yes you need the work doing properly but concentrate on this. Struggling to visualise the beam support points so some pics of this would be helpful. What contract do you have? You are certainly within your rights to hold monies back. contact BC yourself, express your concerns and see if they can/will pop in to have a look

What’s to the left and below? Looks like a lintel of some sort just into view on the left

That’s in poor condition, as a temporary measure you could use expanding foam to ‘stick’ things in place and provide some support but you really need to look at a strip and re tile as a good storm could shake a lot of that loose.

The tanks themselves are ok but if storing water then you need to fully cover them to exclude sunlight

It is possible to replace some tiles from the inside but unlikely if you haven’t done it before. a sheet of lead or similar could be slid in with some faffing about but you need to remember that the flashing needs to go under the upper tiles and then over the sides and bottom … very difficult from inside. Are you sure you need scaffolding or someone with a spider cherry picker for an hour.

Spider cranes will easily fit through a gap you would struggle to take a transit

You can use compound to simply fill in the low spots, however if your high spots are already too high then grinding a scutching is the only way (apart from remove and replace)

Looks like it was the relay coil, shouldn’t be too difficult to sort out.

Exactly! If you have a descent head from the plant then it would be enough to open the flap but you also wouldn’t need the flap.

Really depends on how much higher the treatment plant is against the expected upper level of the burn. A down stream bend wouldn’t hurt

T&G ply isn’t as good as T&G chip because the ply layers can leave longitudinal grain only allowing tongues especially to break off easily. As above MR flooring chip with glued joints is bullet proof

Do you really have so much free time at the start of a build? Charing wood is messy, time consuming and difficult to work with after it’s been done. I would rip out what you can, stack properly and cover it up for later