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About Edward

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  1. The Rehau smart system, in my opinion is the most unnecessarily complex and frustrating system to get working properly. The UFH comprises of three circuits heating my kitchen, therefore no manifold, quite a straight forward setup. I can not get the app to communicate with the system, I am not sure if I have paired the thermostat with the base, when think its been turned down I can hear the system opening up and pushing water through, the instructions are hideously complex and the flow diagrams dont appear to correspond with what I see on the hardware. So before I melt down, how easy is it to swap out control system for another manufacturer? If its fairly straightforward, any recommendations?
  2. Forgive me but I am a complete layman when it comes to electricity. We have in our kitchen a pendant with 8 bulbs installed, specifically these in various shapes. https://www.thelightbulb.co.uk/4watt-pear-led-es-e27-screw-cap-very-warm-white-gold-finish-equivalent-to-30watt-dimmable/ The wiring, switch, the circuit into the distribution box including the box itself is all new. We replaced the current bulbs because they buzz, however these bulbs are worse. What’s the solution? Is it likely to be a new switch? Are the bulbs not suitable? id be grateful for some insight and some product recommendations to help stop the buzz!
  3. Perpendicular to this, from the house to the retaining wall
  4. My original post was concerting the specification around the steel.
  5. Because the current retaining wall is failing and needs replacing. I also need to raise the patio inline with the doors to reduce the drop. If i use stone and a wheelbarrow, the new wall will need significant footings to retain the stone. In my suggestion, the new wall would not be retaining anything.
  6. Ok thanks. It would be my intention to remove some fill behind the wall to ensure the new wall would not be retaining anything. I was also considering removing much the fill to accept EPS blocks to make the levels. This would negate the need for a block and beam and possibly reduce the size of the footings.
  7. Our current patio is ground bearing and is held in place by a retaining wall, which is failing as it has no footings. The structure is independent of the house foundations so there's no risk to the house. The patio is currently about 1.5m above the garden - we also need to raise it slightly so the step from the new doors is reduced (see picture) My solution is to remove the retaining wall and the necessary material currently being retained and create a new suspended patio using steel tied into the house and a new retaining wall. The steel will then support block and beam, to which we can then build the patio back onto using the existing York flags. The new retaining wall will have (i think) a cavity of which the steel will rest onto the blockwork, whilst we can reuse the bricks from the failing wall to finish the new wall. I have a few questions: a) How can i specify the stiffness of the new steel without the use of a structural engineer? b) Does the block and beam need a screed on top to accept mortar to then accept flags? Is there a spec for the mortar. b) how does this new steel tie into the existing house - is there a standard detail knocking around somewhere? Airbricks, DPC and drainage im comfortable with. I hope the above makes sense. Thanks.
  8. Hi Hope this is the correct forum for this question. We are 80% through our renovation project. Our kitchen is the next major item to be installed. It is our intention to have brick slips on the wall which the kitchen units will rest up against. I have two questions regarding this: 1) My preferred order of works is as follows: Kitchen install > Quartz worktop and upstand measured and installed > brick slips installed, followed by mortar. Our builders order is slightly different as he wants to mortar the brick slips before the worktop is installed meaning the brick slips will be installed before the worktop and upstand. Our tiler, who is working for us not the builder, wants to install the brick slips after the worktop and upstand are in place. The builders justification is because mortar is a messy process and he must keep things clean. They tiler says he needs to work off from the upstand first. Which order would you suggest and why? 2) Can we mortar ourselves? Is it possible to use an injectable ready mixed mortar? If so can someone link some suitable products? This would save some cost which is always helpful. Many thanks
  9. EPS 300 is a Jablite product. Cellcore and Heaveguard is a Cordek product, Cordek also manufacturer EPS, called Filcor. Enter your postcode here and you can discuss this with Cordek directly https://cordek.com/contact/ and they can assist you with your insulation calculations. Its unlikely you will need EPS 300 - its probably overspecced on the vertical, so this could save you some cost. On your second drawing, the slab does not appear to be tied in to the foundations. This wont work with the presence of heaving ground.
  10. Hi all Were about to install the Rehau UFH system in our old house, which has a suspended floor, with unequally spaced joists. The sizing of the joists rules our aluminium spreader plates and because we want to keep the FFL the same, we have decided on foil lined polystyrene panels in between the joists. Our builders are currently insulating the floor with Rockwool prior to the joists being installed. I have two questions: 1) There appears to be a few different type of foil lined EPS joists boards on the market, would you recommend one over another and if so why? 2) I am slightly concerned about the conduction from the foil backed board up into the floorboards - there is a chance of a small cold bridge here, would it be worth packing the interface between the EPS and the floorboard out with a conducting material to ensure there are no air gaps? 3) Finally is the type of tile on the floor important as we are most likely to use a porcelain tile. Many thanks
  11. Yes, access to under the floor wont be compromised once the UFH has been laid. Nick, thank you. I understand the basic differences between closed and open cell foam. Can you elaborate on what should be used where? Obviously avoiding the timbers sweating is important! Thanks Ed
  12. Thanks Scottishjohn. I think on second thoughts it would be easier if i get a contractor to quote for the spray foam as you suggested.
  13. Ok thanks for the reply. I dont have any plans yet. Yes the floor is in, the house was built in the 30s. Its my kitchen floor, and the depth of the space underneath the floor is enough to stand up in. The u value of 0.25, as far as im aware, is the U value which new builds are required to achieve. What u value should i be aiming for do you think? I do not wish to raise the floor for a multitude or reasons which arent relevant at the moment, so the spreader plate is the only option at the moment. The whole purpose of insulating the floor is to stop the downwards loss of heat, and im trying to address that to the best of my knowledge. If what ive suggested wont work, what would be the best solution?
  14. Hi everyone. New to the forum as i'm looking for some advice please. I am looking to insulate between the joists of my suspended timber floor (ground level) to an acceptable standard in order for my plumber to install UFH. We will be most likely using the REHAU spreader plate system so not to raise the FFL. Ive a few questions about the process: 1) Do i need to be concerned about moisture/condensation - should i install a DPC type membrane and if so, should this go above or below the insulation? 2) Does it matter if the spreader plates are touching the insulation, or do i not need to be too concerned about the space between the top if the insulation and the bottom of the plates? 3) Should i ensure any gaps between the insulation and the joists, external walls of the house are as air tight as possible? Should i use a tape or expanding foam? 4) Finally, im torn between using a rockwool type insulation or a kingspan board which will need cutting to size. Any opinions of which to use and why is appreciated. Our builder has quoted £5k for this aspect of the renovation (i asked him to achieve a u value of 0.25w/m2 or less), and as far as im aware its relatively straight forward. Any advice is greatly appreciated, thanks in advance Edward