markc

You only put good stone at the front anyway and backfill with ballast etc. the “dividers” are just there to hold bigger cages in shape, not to separate materials as you need the gabions to be packed tight or settlement makes a real mess of them. also buy well not cheap! Poorly galvanised cages do not last, they are intended for temporary works only or where they will be covered over as works progress

Getting BC approval for an installation in one position does not allow you to move it where you want, the wording may say it is installed in the property without being specific on location. that aside there are loads of pre made protrusion sealing cowls/shrouds for flues, downpipes etc.

Yes! Slightest impact on the edge will make it explode.

Gun nails will hold very well, but really comes down to preference and how much you want to spend. Gun nailing will be much much faster than screws and pretty much invisible but if you want to see nice straight rows of screw heads then it’s going to be much slower and fixing costs will increase dramatically

As above plus type of ground, size/type/proximity of trees or other buildings etc. if an extension to existing does it have strip foots?, depth ? Is it on a raft?

I would say that your requirements are much less than say an inner city site and as long as you clearly define the site and highlight dangers of entry and excavations etc. then you are pretty well covered

@Russell griffiths I couldn’t agree more. Been saying and practicing this for years. Yes deter the scrotebags but if they are determined to get in they will. better to loose a few bits with no damage than suffer the damage which is often many times the value of goods taken.

@TimCx yes electrical tape

As the pressures are very low and if duct is tight then jubilee clips won’t be necessary but taping is good to make air tight and prevent movement. Insulating tape is good due to the stretch and flexibility. Aluminium tape is ok on rigid ductwork

Assuming it is wired then you start where the wire is cut and work around the spiral pushing it onto the spigot a bit at a time. If you just try to push it on in one go the wire spiral closes up bunching the duct material making the id smaller.

Could well be a much more expensive alternative unless it’s for a garden shed. Sizing will be a nightmare, tying into existing will be a bigger nightmare and aesthetically likely to be a horror story. If you want cheap, get a conservatory, if you want an extension … build it.

“ I'll try a sloppy one “ is that a technical term?

Yes

Clippings do not compact but you can compact a thin layer into the base to key the layers together. the top layer of clippings will sort themselves out

CT1 will work well as it remains flexible. Gripfil is good but dries too hard for threshold strips

22mm chip (tongue and groove) glued and screwed will give a very flat and ideal surface for tiling on.

At that size I would fit the frame, get it all true, fixed and ready then lift the glass

Got to agree, also why chip floor then 6mm ply?

Another project to start? Much more fun than finishing stuff 🤫

Don’t call it insulation, say you want to use a revolutionary lightweight structural block called EPS, give them the mechanical properties sheet (compressive strength) and say the idea is the isolate the structure from the horrible corrosive cold ground. if that fails go with @Thorfun and get another SE

Morning squire, right a chimney damper is good for reducing draw. if your fire is raging and bending bars then your combustion is too hot or fierce. Blocking the chimney won’t do it any good and a damper at the top is really bad .. you can reduce draw in windy area with a chimney that spays out at the top like the exit of a trumpet etc but You need to control air into the fire by restricting airflow - thicker bars to reduce air gaps, leaving ash in the bottom or even control fire temp with some green wood (this takes some practice so restricting combustion airflow is best).

Soot is a sign of poor combustion, no soot is a good burn. You won’t get stuck on “creosote” unless you are burning rubbish … (even then it won’t be creosote). Is it difficult to light? Or doesn’t draw well? Gas and oil burners pull in their own air (generally) due to pressurised nozzle effect. A wood burner chimney draw to pull in combustion air. It’s quite possible your chimney is too big or not enough air able to get in through bottom of the burner

Good evening and welcome, a vast amount of answers available with a search of previous threads and failing that, ask away

Nothing wrong with bending your own straps. 90 degree ones are usually used up a wall and over wall plate, twisted are up wall and onto side of rafters or bottom cords of trusses

Much better outside. A lithium battery fire is pretty horrendous very very much worse than a lead acid battery fire