markc

16k will get you a basic standing lift, 20ish for an open car wheelchair lift and 30 for an enclosed. Power supply is rarely above 1kw so no fancy supplies needed. definitely no residual value as they are a pain to remove and rails/tracks are usually cut to suit the install.

Hi and welcome, flat works must be a nightmare for access and keeping the locals happy or just not wanting to kill you.

When we had a steel and timber erecting division, the vans and T shirts said “Specialist Erection Services” while working every night in Leeds on station upgrades we were asked constantly by (mainly girls) party goers to sell or give them shirts

Has to be spreader plates for the UFH. Doh, hit save just as I saw the post above

Hi, straps fixed to the frames with self tapping screws will be no problem, bit of messing about offering frame into place sorting locations for brackets/straps, remove frame, fix brackets, put back into place and fix. If the frames were thermally broken I could see some argument against additional metalwork but this seems lazy or not what they are used to

As above, you don’t need a 13 for test holes, great for demo with a selector grab, quick site clearance and removal/stock pilling of veggie layer.

There is always a way to fix with brackets, maybe they don’t know how to fix brackets to the profile. If you can post a section through the profile to be used we can take a look and chuck in some suggestions

Shadow gaps are the latest must have detail around dark and door window frames. Think it’s come about after someone on tv said they don’t like mastic filled gaps

Yes, done that a few times too, at least this way you don’t form a tank

As above and any specific areas you want us to look at?

Yep, loads of farm building done with pocket founds, then you drop a steel or concrete column into the pocket, erected the building and then fill pocket with concrete. Unfortunately the pocket acts like a tank and holds any water that runs down the columns or pocket sides.

I have also seen a lot of corroded columns, once cut a wind brace and the column dropped about 4 inches because the foot had rotted away

AAV’s are needed to prevent siphon pulling water from bath or sink traps when toilets are flushed. A toilet flush can/does create a considerable vacuum behind it. A AAV is an easy path for airflow balance this

Don’t stress or worry about it, learn and move on. We all f@#k up at times.

No pictures

I would say that’s a pretty good price

Noooooo! Tile skirting would bridge the DPC And hold any water running down the brickwork.

No reason you can’t plug a gas boiler into a socket. I don’t know of any reg saying it must have a fused outlet.

Oh yes, rookie mistake I made building a workshop at my first house, wall set in only an inch or so but any water running down the wall is pulled in under the bottom block

Ducting is all about cross sectional area so a reduction in diameter from 90 to 75 doesn’t seem much, the area is reduced by almost 1/3rd requiring a much faster flow to get the same volume of air .. more speed requires more power and increases noise

If the tiles are level you generally set the drainage channel level. It’s not like a foul drain that needs to move solids

I would be more concerned that the tiles are right up to the brickwork and only just below DPC. Water splashes are likely to cause damp in your wall. really needs a channel cutting between tiles and brickwork, fill this with peddles etc. to stop water bounce

Firstly get confirmation of full or outline planning. the sketch and photo are not that dissimilar so I would say the scheme/appearance is reasonable. you could put in offer/purchase conditional on planning being granted for the proposed house

If you are just opening up 2x2m holes for doors then it’s unlikely any additional pillars or wind bracing will be required. Really only a problem when full width open plan extensions are added

Think it’s a copy and paste detail, twist straps always go from wall direct to truss to resist uplift? Wall plate straps come with a single 90 bend and you bend them over the wall plate forming the U shape after fixing .. one strap covers many wall plate widths. if you use twisted ones from wall to truss you will be ok