markc

Yes, moisture resistant makes sense as it’s not that much more anyway. Unless you are looking to have a bare floor varnished or something then you would need marine ply.

Caberfloor then seal with Aquaseal or similar liquid tanking stuff.

A larger diameter thicker blade would be horrendous to use, the rim weight would act like a big gyroscope and the blade clamp wouldn’t be able to hold onto the disc when you released the trigger.

Our workshop has a concrete slab varying between 150-200mm with one layer of mesh and we regularly have 20t point loads

Good morning and welcome, questioning and redesigning is rarely a bad thing, just don’t let over thinking stop you making progress. My wife (SWMBO) takes overthinking to Olympian level 🤯

Some confusion here regarding depth and thickness. depth is how deep into the ground the excavation is .. to resist movement. thickness of a found depends on the loads it will carry, bearing capacity of the ground under it and the founds resistance/breaking to bending when the loads are applied

I don’t have anything to do with groundwork’s or geotechnical but Just looking at this and my first thought is that the calculation would be for the minimum depth below the lowest point to prevent a slide or shear down the slope. that aside, min foundation depth is generally to get below a level that will be affected by movement from shrink, heave or frost etc.

Very difficult to put a time on an unknown but let’s say we are looking at fitting a new hardwood door, as a SB’er you are going to be picky and scrutiny everything so we need to allow 3-4 hours. now let’s say you buy a similar door used, how well was it fitted previously? Do hinge pockets need packing or filling? Is it square? - possibly needs trimming on all sides to square it up, is it the right way? R/L opening? Allow a day faffing and fitting. basically, if you get a good door for free you should be ok to save a few £, but I would never pay for a used door unless it was an extra large one or something special

Are you using a cistern frame? Or just hiding a separate cistern? If using a frame, that takes all the load of the cistern and pan so all you need then is panels to make the box, aqua panel (or similar) or plywood means no need for framing as other than to fix to wall and floor

Nothing wrong with fitting a used door, but it needs a lot more thought and faffing than fitting a new one. If I still did jobs like this I would want double for fitting a used door (Unless it came still in its frame and had been removed in one piece)

It will be ok with or without tape, long before choc boxes they were done like you have and before connector strip were available it was done (and still is in a lot of industrial places) by twisting or tying the cores together and then wrapping with tape. We used to make even 33Kv (33,000v) splices and Tee’s by twisting and taping.

First thought was that H and C were the wrong way but if you have tried swapping them over it has to be a pressure related problem … insufficient for that particular mixer design maybe

With a truss you can span pretty much anything, but the truss/joist depth increases significantly as spans increase, trying to keep them shallow just introduces bounce … or more bounce. having re read the OP, 17m walls are fine but the floor will require some design input regarding lateral bracing.

660mm wide isn’t a problem and games consoles etc are quite low, distributed loads. 8mm toughened will be more than sufficient (take a look at the shelves supplied for cabinets etc.).

If it finished at loft floor cap it off with a big slab of insulation and a weight to hold it down

Leave the ends in the connector or if you want to lose it, cut cores to different length and then wrap with insulation tape (cutting to different lengths prevents any chance of stray “hairs” shorting across

@joe90 what colours do you have?

If you are not limited by ridge and internal height then that looks like a good option,

Morning, as it’s boxed in I’m taking it as inside so I wouldn’t worry about it, outside where pipes expand and contract you do see movement and older buildings often have no chambers or inspection points so Down pipes can back up and that’s when you need the seals to work. In your case you are just looking for it to stop odours rather than backed up water and Sh1t

Danger with pushing an oversized pipe into a sealing ring/boss/gland is potential leaks due to fully compressing the convolutions and potential splits and tears. The seals are designed to allow some movement and allow the pipe to ‘float’ around the centreline. solvent is best kept to similar materials, adhesive for bonding different materials

Looks great! Well done sir

Effectively you are just using a garage so no building regs and not really a change of use so get on with it

Contracts can be as simple or complicated as you want, you detail what you want something to be/look like, type, quality style of finishes etc. when you want it doing and cost. The other party then agrees or disagrees and gives amendments then you both agree to something in the middle. we have customers with 100 page contracts for a £150k machine and other customers who will happily order 3 or 4 of them on a verbal/phone call or email.

If you can go straight down behind plasterboard, remove kick board and reach under to make a hole, drop cables down then under kitchen units and back up to new socket location .. hopefully nothing in way behind PB

Hi, that doesn’t look like a new house. There is obviously a problem that needs addressing but difficult to even guess at a cause without more info, age, roof outside, what’s behind the stuff etc.