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tonyshouse

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Everything posted by tonyshouse

  1. tonyshouse
    I went for Genvex, perfect apart from it won't talk to my home automation system I think that you don't need anything like the number of air changes that are designed in. Watch out out for the cost of filters, we use very good ones so have lovely air quality
  2. tonyshouse
    Dense rockwool batts would work better and if a job is worth doing etc.... min in one side 12.5 + 15mm p board and the other just 12.5 this is minimum. no air paths , no back to back sockets or light cwitches plenty of quilt in floor and above ceiling
  3. tonyshouse
    Poured concrete better still
  4. tonyshouse
    We used to build insulated kerbs laid to a 1:30 fall, buy an oversize stepped triple glazed unit sit it on top on foam strips with Ali trims on three sides. Can be made to open but much more tricky
  5. tonyshouse
    I find it most odd that a vapour barrier is used in walls and ceilings but not for floors. I have installed lots of vapour barriers in floors and never had any problems, water from any leak needs to be sorted out and any left on top would soon disappear through evaporation or diffusion, it can't stay. I particularly like using vb as air tightness barriers too and trapping them behind skirtings (where lots of draughts occur)
  6. tonyshouse
    Midway in this case front only and yes of course tiny counterbore and mm perfect length, better with no screws. bach can be done with an bracket
  7. tonyshouse
    12mm dowels vertically between shelves a crucial points where they sagg?
  8. tonyshouse
    240V no underground joins, above ground glanded waterproof connections always pointing downwards.
  9. tonyshouse
    1) don't build it flat, 1:40 or steeper, 2) use a pitched roof at all costs, 3) moisture sensor will go offevery time there is severe frost or high radiative cooling, impossible to distinguish between this and a leak.
  10. tonyshouse
    Might be too late but I would design out active cooling you should need it. Thermal model will inform this and likely suggest external shading try to include some mass, concrete floors inside thermal envelope HW best with immersion as emergency back-up go for a small heat pump for normal hot water prop or brace walls during construction. concentrate on air tightness, where is your air tightness barrier, will ring beams and lintels cause thermal bridging? solar thermal has to be an option. Hope it goes well,
  11. tonyshouse
    If you are willing to water it or think it will be wet you can sow now.
  12. tonyshouse
    I have seeded loads of lawns and a few rugby pitches. I sow at 1/3oz per yard in old money. Most people think the more seed the better but this is not the case, better thinly and allow room for plants to grow wait til Autumn but spend time levelling, compacting, tilling and removing weeds. for my lawn I use red fescue and bent creeping fescues with brown mixed in for shady areas. For rough grass, pitches ryegrass is good but I hate it in lawns. note grass seed suppliers have a vested interest in selling you too much!
  13. tonyshouse
    We added 50mm all round in the od days to allow us to add 50mm of sheet insulation to all four sides top trimmer is best horizontal and bottom one vertical an there is a lot of working out to get it right so that 50mm of insulation with plasterboard still locates into the groove in the window frame.
  14. tonyshouse
    I have rainwater harvesting for flushing WCs and garden watering/washing patio, paths and car. no filters, underground tank, (very like a septic) pump to loft cistern, to WC cisterns. perfect tiny ammount of fine silt in WC cisterns, nd more in loft store, lots in the underground one, I have trapped gullies on the rain pipes but some leaves do get in. after two months of operation the water was smelly and I was advised to add a cup of cider vinegar it cured the problem. i love using rain water for cleaning the windows.
  15. tonyshouse
    A model would show it up visually without the need to think about it.
  16. tonyshouse
    This is the exact problem that I am thinking of when we are talking about two and three dimensional models. low surface temperatures are fully predicted by models and orders of magnitude in calculations make little difference for computers.
  17. tonyshouse
    We can view plans in three dimensions, model buildings in hyperspace and take virtual tours. Yet we continue to calculate heat losses in one dimension. As insulation gets better the proportion of heat lost through thermal bridging increases, no one cares much.
  18. tonyshouse
    JSH was saying, "The general rule of thumb is that anything more than 100mm below the surface doesn't have any significant impact, because heat flow is so slow by the time you get down to 100mm that it can't have much of an effect on regulating the temperature of the house." this may well be true for poorly insulated high heat demand buildings but the better insulated a building is the less true this becomes.
  19. tonyshouse
    I do have a vapour barrier at ceiling level, condensation in lofts can happen even when moisture from the house does nor enter the loft.
  20. tonyshouse
    My loft is cold and I don't care about draughts getting in there, I care a lot about them getting into the house and am keeping them all out.
  21. tonyshouse
    Cold roof me, insulation at ceiling level, airtight, less volume to heat and get heat losses from and it is a complete nightmare keeping wind out of a loft.
  22. tonyshouse
    I can't see any point in having a 215 inner skin as part of a cavity wall, better to have 2 X 100 skins and use the extra space for insulation.
  23. tonyshouse
    20mm blue poly works well especially for block work, a bucket handle is usually not wide enough to nicely make nominal 10mm joints for brickwork.
  24. tonyshouse
    Or heat it up a bit in an oven! Regarding the tape, how can you tell how long it will stay stuck for? And how will you join wall air tightness to floor and ceiling/roof membrane.
  25. tonyshouse
    Dream on! No seriously they should give you sufficient of a meeting so that they can give you prices and win you over. there are standard charging scales (that I have never paid) which cover every stage of a project do as much as you can yourself, deciding sketching floor plans photos or links of what you like.
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