tonyshouse

Never had a BI ask for structure on a stairs, they just walk up it. Built loads mdf window boards work well for straight treads, 28mm mdf for winders, ply for risers, strings straight ones we used large size sawn carcusing planered on one face and one edge. Gorilla glue is good, "rubber blocks" under the noses, all nice and solid, best to build on Fridays.

Through the crack or drill a series of holes

Simple and effective I should think, I would add some jumbo draughty strip to the underside of the top sheet where it sits on the flooring and fireproof board or ply somewhere and some weight again ply on top of it.

Nice, no air leakage, depends on how well insulated the building is as to how bad the thermal bridges are.

Is the concrete slab wet insitu concrete with walls built on it not through it?

How will you stop air and wind from outside, in the loft and in the floor void from blowing around behind the linings? if it does this then the insulation value of the protherm will be partly or totally lost don't underestimate how difficult it is to keep draughts out, lots of people get then coming out of socket outlets even on internal walls, under skirtings etc

Do we have any air tightness test results for real ones? I like to see second test after six months.

Think of a reasonable number then double it

Good! Let me sow some more.... is it sensible to combine insulation with structure? Thermal bridging is massive with SIPs especially at the sole plate, round windows, up corners, big solid timbers are built in, often double ones. air tightness is about careful site work, I have seen 50mm gaps under windows, odd gaps where roof joins walls, service penetrations done with a club hammer. it is good to think about air tightness before you start, you are on the right track.

There are passive houses and there is also Passive Haus or here Passive House UK I live in the former and am as you all know very keen on reducing energy use.

I like stable fairly constant internal temperatures, these equate to comfort. Nice air quality is a bonus resulting from not throwing heat away in ventilated air BT using MVHR

The insulation will be do virtually nothing and it sounds to be way too thin too. can you get any photos please.

In a well insulated house when the outside temperatures is high the indoor temperatures remain comfortable so long as solar gain is cut out by using external shading or shutters.

Go for good air tightness or you will let allergens in! go for the good filters that you are planning, there will be a cost, change regularly. go for a good air handler, Genvex and a good designer, Europeans seem better than here though there is a very good company here.

It should be, I always just got BR drawings and worked out the details myself. Often standard details are available with a little searching but they can be worked out from first principles.

Construction drawings would show more detail than would be required by building regs, often they get ignored or get passed ove or not even referred to on site as the tradesmen all claim that they know how to do it all

Get someone else. :)

As you say interesting, I can't see the aerodynamic cooling effect ever coming into play it is a small effect. I can see roof surfaces getting very cold due to radiative cooling and to a lesser extent by evaporative cooling BUT this would cool the tiles and any condensation would drip onto the sarking membrane and not get into the loft. I strongly disagree with the notion that leaky homes are good, they waste heat, the ventilation is all but zero when it is not windy and way too much when it is windy. it is in my opinion very unlikely that cool damp air coming into a loft from outside could cause problems (all houses would be in trouble if this was the case) re MHRV -- as this runs continuously the air in a house tends to even itself out and there atr rarely problems, very bad areas of thermal bridging could conceivably gather damp and mould, design out thermal bridges would be a better answer.

What are these please?

Clearly they do initially or they would have failed already, how would they perform under freeze thaw cycles and how stable will they be to UV light, clearly they absorb it well as they are black. I am am expecting the to turn grey, go brittle, O rings suffer deterioration and the connection to eventually fail. looking at 50 years time scale is it therefore sane to leave them exposed?

What do we think about solar pv push in plug connectors exposed to rain?I recently refused to accept them lying in puddles and on a flat roof where they could get wet or lie in slush.They went back and did this leaving them still exposed to the rainWhy oh why didn't the clip them up under the panels out of the weather?

I did, videos on tonyshouse.info used oils digital video camera plugged into mains set to 0.5 secs overly 2 mins then edited it

In theory balanced flues should not influence air tightness in practice there are nearly always draughts happening around the flue pipe

Floating houses are very very much more expensive to build than "normal houses" in in design terms they sound sensible but overlook how to get to them when it floods.

Yes, you still need air tightness, rockwool batts inbetween, double boards at least one side, rubber behind the metal resilient bars too.