Carrerahill

Do you have touch-up paint for the cladding?

Nozzle size, have you checked that? My brother invested about £400 in some all singing all dancing Wagner (that I am due to borrow soon) and I think it nearly ended up in the skip several times over, after months of literally detesting it, but using it as he felt the price was too high to ignore it he discovered (via mainly North American sites) that the nozzles he had with it were not ever going to work correctly for his paint. He got a new nozzle to suit emulsion he wanted to spray and the next thing I hear from him is that the Wagner is the best thing since sliced bread. So now he has worked it all out I am looking forward to a shot!

10A would do you!! I'd just go for a 20A MCB, 6mm radial up to a suitable junction box, 2.5mm out and then create a ring or radial. It is certainly future proofed!

You have a couple of options, 2.5mm would really need a breaker of 20A - you could go 32A and use 4mm cable (clipped direct) if you think your loads are likely to exceed this, however unless your planning some heavy duty electric loads up there I suspect you will be fine with 20A. My whole ground floor main ring is 20A (no idea why it was put onto a 20A) and I have never had an issue. Also note, that just because you exceed 20A you won't automatically trip a 20A breaker. Over current protection at this level is about heat generated in cables, 6242Y cable (twin and earth) has a max operating temp of 70° - so let's say you load up the circuit a bit and it sits at 45°C - that is fine, the the breaker is designed to permit this, this is thermal overload protection, so it is actually perfectly acceptable to, for example, load a 20A breaker at 25A for a period and nothing will happen. The thermal protection of a B curve breaker is that at 1.25 x the rated current it will take about 15 minutes to trip, 22A for about an hour and a half etc.

This gives me hope. All I need is a builders bag of all in one!

Doing this tonight!

This was me on Sunday trying to level the kitchen cabinets! I used the 1800mm level to level up 3 units together, that suggested it was about level, decided to fire up the Bosch laser level and ping out a horizontal line to skim the top edge of the units, my thinking is if it is literally just on the face and skimming over the top literally showing dust sitting on the top of the uprights and brace pieces that will let me check the whole unit and not just the front face, the level would suggest the 1800mm level was about 4mm out. Hmm.

This is pretty much the make-up I used, only difference being I used ridged 100mm insulation within the 2x6's. As you say it leaves a decent service void. 2x8 blocking was added where I felt necessary to allow simple fixing of things to the walls and to give a more solid feel at various sections of the wall such as near doors which may result in the wall getting a thud.

Matchstick wood is used by the production builders these days but doesn't make it good or right. I'd push, if this is your build and maybe your forever home I'd think about it. See what others on here think.

I'd say there are fairly few drawbacks to a 400mm centres stud work concerning the end result, the issues are probably more for likes of insulating, depending on how they are going to insulate it will mean more pieces and more cutting, something I would have not enjoyed when it was the PIR insulation. There will be a slightly reduced thermal efficiency as you noted but this will no doubt be mitigated. I personally went for 145x45mm (2x6) for my TF, I went for 600mm centres but placed noggins and blocking at key locations to give a more solid feel and to help with attaching things to walls like TV's and kitchen cabinets and hooks and pictures and shelves all sorts. 140x38 CLS does seem a bit less sturdy than a proper 2x6 so could be why he wanted the 400mm c/c.

Exactly my thoughts. The OP is now into the realms of a substantial sub-mains here, something that shouldn't really be thrown together, this needs careful consideration and design before implementation.

https://adexa.co.uk/Commercial-Sink-Stainless-steel-1-bowl-Splashback-600mm-Depth-600mm-Adexa-ST145A?language=en&currency=GBP&gclid=CjwKCAjwpqv0BRABEiwA-TySwSTa-z1HW9IZ-y5LqO9z0rWh5nvAAYcB3n3gc_8MbeIiAL4dib-wBxoC6-AQAvD_BwE

I love solvent weld, I use it for most waste runs and use a compression where I need to have the ability separate something or may need into it. You cannot mix solvent and push-fit without the adaptor pieces or a compression fitting. I did a lot of push-fit waste years ago and compared to solvent weld it feels a bit inferior. I always put in screw in blanking ends too - T here and there with a plug seems like a good idea for getting in in the future for blockages, I also always try and engineer enough pipe between tight joints so that if needed, I can cut it off hard up against the fitting I am removing and still have enough of a stub of pipe left I can weld another union on.

Small galv nails are specifically sold for this. They need to be corrosion resistant, technically plasterboard screws would work but the heads need to be burried deep enough they don't cause issues with the plastering but without breaking the bead.

Just checking...

Is there no support on the RHS as the vertical take a bend to the horizontal? If not, I would get one on to the bend as it changes or the force and weight of the water will probably eventually push that joint down.

I'd add this worry to the back of your queue, I really would.

Torness?

Had something along these lines not been written I'd have done it myself. Spot on I'd say. I'd say the risk is possibly to areas, rural predominantly, which would tend to "expect" power outages during storms. That is to say city supplies etc. would not usually be affected. It is times like these that I really am glad we have a WBS. Even those with self generation ability cannot always operate in island mode and effectively regardless of the £10K's of power generation equipment they cannot generate a watt. My backup plan is a UPS with a big battery(s) to run critical circuits (at present can support about 500W for 12 hours) and WBS for heat and cooking although gas should remain unaffected. I suspect that when everything becomes electric the government and the big firms will have control over almost the entire population, they simply want us, the people, to be totally at their mercy.

I used 3M foil tape, the performance spec was impressive with low to high service temps and all water proof and all sorts. It was not this one (the one I got was £7 per 50m x 50mm roll), but it gives the idea. Tapes are used for a lot of sealing applications on buildings and it makes no sense to use cheap tape that will separate off the product rendering its application a total waste of time. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-tapes/1444035?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Adhesives+%26+Sealants+%26+Tapes_Whoop-_-Aluminium+Tapes_Whoop-_-PRODUCT_GROUP&matchtype=&pla-339158924057&s_kwcid=AL!7457!3!413164779971!!!g!339158924057!&gclid=CjwKCAjwguzzBRBiEiwAgU0FTzT31fJeUDGa02jVApEOhFhdgdc_Ah5Py2jkHAfPlB_0g6yCRR64CRoCqg8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

That is an issue - I like to "bench build" as many pieces as I can, but let's face it, there comes the time you need to fit it to your building permanently and this can cause alignment issues you describe. Another option is to try fit the whole system - then mark every piece with a number and an alignment mark. That allows you to set elbows and Tees to the correct angle as you solvent weld them.

I would say, although not ideal, as long as the pipe went in and ended up with a good welded joint to the the coupling, it should be OK. I sort of pressured tested all my PVC work by reaching down the brand new, clean, soil stack and jamming the 40MM waste up at the boss with toilet paper, I then ran the sink and bath until I knew the whole network of pipes was sitting full over water. Maybe you could alleviate some fears of your own with a similar test. On hand-over/completion of projects, say a big office block the architects and consultants and anyone else within the "design" team usually have a big party, there is what is called "the big flush" where everyone was to go to the WC's and kitchens and tea points and simultaneously flush all the loos and run all the taps. It was a bit of a gimmick at the system had been tested already, but it was to emulate a busy working building, once it had been done everyone would return to the party as normal and contractors would the go round risers and basements and plant areas looking for leaks or failures.

I hear you! Some pipe runs can be done easily but when you need to slot new pipe in between existing fixed points it can be a bit of a mad dash to get it all fitted snug and lined up before the solvent starts to cause the PVC to bite.

Casambi/Shelly.

Well that is the Amtico part of the floor down, it looks great, I am very happy with it and considering it is my first DIY Amtico adventure I am quite pleased with myself. I now need to do the cheaper stuff around the perimeter which will be under the cabinets. I do have some photos but don't have the time to email them over and what not, I will soon. So in summary, Amtico is very much a DIY job unless you are going for a complex floor with motifs etc, where maybe I'd not want to risk it, although, if I had plenty spare lengths I might risk it... I would be happy to lay a border with what I now know. So, if you are thinking about it - go for it! I used Ardex Universal adhesive spread with an A2 notched trowel, I used a Marshaltown 4 inch jointing knife to scoop it out the tub and generally spread about the place before hitting the whole area with the notched trowel until I had 100% coverage but notched sized lines so there was room for it to squeeze out into the troughs and not so much adhesive the flooring just starts to slide about. I'd do it again in another room tomorrow, as with most jobs, the time is in the prep, the flooring actually goes down very fast and cuts very easily - if I was doing it again I'd setup a workbench with a "cutting station" on it.