Carrerahill

Tip - use something with a narrow top to it, anything bigger becomes a dust catcher - we have clean house yet the first floor skirting constantly seems to look filthy - combo of carpet fibre and normal dust. If you dry clean it it still looks a bit dirty, if you damp clean it you end up with streaks of dust spread along the wall! After that fiasco we started using the more traditional styles - Georgian or Victorian.

If it is for max litres per minute then can you not fit a pressure reducing valve...

I've just done some Googling, looks like you have "Part G" and need to limit water use per person per day - I can only assume that as some regions in England have water shortages this was introduced to try and help the issues.

BC care about taps? Huh? What is this about? Compliance with what? Only spec in Scotland is thermostatic valve so you cannot scald yourself.

It is not the end of the world but it is not right, it also depends on several factors. With a roof the rain runs down the slate, then a gust of wind can drive that water back up under the higher slates, when you have a big gap and a lot of water then there is the chance in foul weather that some water will be pushed up far enough that it can run off the top of the slate and onto the membrane, which, from time to time is going to happen to some extent even on the best of roofs which is partly why the membrane is there. The next question is what headlap did he use, that is to say how much of the lower slate is covered by the upper slate - the more the headlap the more difficult it is for water to be driven back up. If a healthy headlap and good membrane and everything else is done well then it may never be an issue. You could ask him to come and unclip a few slates, and try and get the low bit on the lower ones to sit up and remove the gap where the higher one covers it, if that makes sense. 9/10 when you get a rain storm which side of your house does it hit hardest - if this is the worst hit side you really want it right I guess.

My wife has chosen a tap she likes, it is by a company called Schon, it seems to be a Victoria Plum own brand and I think are Indian made, it claims to be high quality and its got the WRAS approval but I am worried. I have found an almost identical tap by Sauber - at least I have heard of Sauber but I am not even sure who they are. Does anyone know much about these two? Who are the names in taps? I know Pegler & Franke.

Swimming pool?

What the heck is that?

That explains, he has retained the old tile flashing and he ought to know fine well that it would not be correct for slate. I also disagree he could not get the flashing kit, I bet if you call Velux now they could find you a slate flashing kit for that older window. As for the gaps, they are not good, it could be to do with the old roof timber being a bit undulating and slate does show up this far more than tile because you can have a slight variance on the interlock of a tile but on slate it really needs to be dead level. Out of a matter of interest why did you go for slate when it was tile before?

I don't think so, we ordered an off the shelf product, if that was the case then I'd have hoped he would have explained this rather than just appearing difficult. I can buy from eBay Osmo or Fiddes tins as small as 250ml, tempted to get what I think it is and have a go, that way I am only spending £15 rather than potentially £100 or so on the wrong oil.

Does look a bit high overall doesn't it...

We have a 22mm engineered hardwax oil oak flooring product on the ground floor, it was put in about 3 years ago and is now needs some isolated light repairs where grit or furniture has left little marks. The flooring has a saw finish which was originally chosen to limit the visibility of marks and I think that has worked well. I emailed the manufacturer to ask for help and advice on how to restore these bits, I was told to buy their cleaning are kit (I already use that) so I went on to ask which finish was on the floor, I know it is not gloss but I am unsure if it is satin, satin matt, matt, semi-matt. They email me back and suggest I speak to my supplier, they are closed due to Corona, why the hell won't he just say what I need. They even sell the damn stuff on their site so this behaviour is verging on simply being difficult for the sake of being difficult. Anyone good with hardwax oil finishes and floor repairs?

The slight slope at the dry fix bonding gutter (thing that sits between you and neighbours roof) is about right I'd say although it does look a bit pronounced at the bottom. The issue here is you have a very thin flat slate and it needs to sit up a little so that it can ride over the channels on the bonding gutter so you do get a visible rise. Some roofers re-sheet the roof short, then use thinner ply/osb so that the bonding gutter sits a little lower. As for the flashing kit round the velux, I'd say it is the wrong kit, you get a slate flashing kit and a tile flashing kit for them and it looks like a tile kit which is more bulky. Either that or they just made a mess of it. Apart from those two bits it does look like a nice roof.

10mm! I'd be annoyed at 2.5mm!

I'd look into this, I don't think next door have any right to do anything on or with your front garden other than a right of way, in which case as long as you leave them access you can do what you want. I'd check all the details but I'd not have thought it was a "shared space". That said can you not just redo your garden and leave your neighbours with the ability to use your path?

Just as a little anecdote about this sort of thing. About 20 years ago I ran an Ethernet cable between two houses via a telegraph pole electrical taped it to the CW1128 BT cable! The run was about 125m plug to plug. It aways maintained a full speed link without issue or a high rate of packet drop. We used bog standard cheap cable and it's still there, no physical degradation or even signs of UV damage.

Yes.

Just run in a piece of CAT5e/6. 5e is limited to 328' to mainatain top speed so you are sorted. Ethernet is the only surefire connection. I am wired in my house and never have issues, with more and more wireless gadgets WiFi is just becoming a pest.

I just use good quality silicone like Everbuild 825 - I used a lot of this around new windows about a year ago and it is all still brilliant white.

Worktops are already in the garage! I also see potential major issues with having them pre-mitred. I am fairly sure my kitchen is fairly square and my cabinets are sitting as square as possible but I'd expect a small variation in angle at joins which a factory mitre wouldn't allow for... or do you feed them that info?

That is even worse... The best a type A can achieve on a 600mm span with 5 courses is about 3000Kg... Who spec'ed the lintels? For the sake of £50 I think I'd pop those out, remove the coursing brick, (maybe use pieces of the old lintel as pad stones) and get a G8 in there, which on it's own without any other courses is just shy of 600Kg/m. If you have a few courses then this could drop to a type F or K9. All advice above is without having full facts and details, but at a basic level is accurate.

I am into woodwork and I like to do everything myself too. Having said that, I cannot see me installing kitchen counters that regularly, I'm more of a cabinetry or custom storage solutions sort of a guy. Mind you, I am tempted to quit my business and start a building firm doing extensions, so maybe I need to learn this now! I am just off the phone to a chap I like the sound of, £200 for fitting the tops, I have scrutinised his workmanship on his Facebook page and note lots of masons mitres executed neatly.

Nice work. I have no doubt that with patience I could do it, I am however wondering if for speed and what not, I pay a man! A good jig will be what £75 then a couple of good cutters say £30 - so there is £105 then I need to acquire a suitable router for the job. If a man wants £200 to come and basically do two joints do I just pay him?

I second this - that would have given @MortarThePoint more like the 6000Kg per meter he needs.

What is that? Type A? 100x70? What is the clear span? about 800mm? Permissible load assuming at least 5 layers of brick would be around 3000Kg per meter...