Carrerahill

Got you.

Before you pull the box are you sure that the bearing cannot be changed in-situ? If you remove the drive flange you may find that you can change the bearing in place - fairly common on a machine like this to have a box like that. Nothing to lose and may save you a fair whack of work and a bad bad!

We are going to put Amtico in our kitchen. About 30 years ago my parents had Amtico installed in their kitchen, in those days you called up Amtico and they designed it all (borders etc.) and sent people to install it, so it was an Amtico led job and therefore their guys (or approved installers whatever they were). What they did was lay cheap blue tiles of the same thickness as the Amtico under the kitchen cabinets and appliances, makes sense to me, my parents have quite a long cumulative length of kitchen cabinets/appliances so it would have been costly and wasteful to install the good stuff under them. I am thinking of doing the same thing, I have spoken to some installers and suppliers today and they seem perplexed by this idea. For me it makes a difference of around £500.00 if I use the Amtico under cabinets or use something like this: https://lifestyleflooringuk.co.uk/malmo-stick-down-skara If I use that stuff I can effectively floor the whole kitchen from wall to wall but with that stuff starting around 100mm in from the plinths. Has anyone else seen this done? What other options could I go for - I had contemplated having the Amtico laid short of the walls where cabinets will go, then before the kitchen goes in pour in some self levelling compound or such to build the area up and create a wall to wall floor covering. I could even use one of the resin types. Or do I just leave those areas of the floor raw ply and give it a coat of varnish to protect from any spills or small floors etc.

No, get someone in to do the whole contract of this stage, big contractors will use a wood faced metal form-work system like the Gilpi system which will be their own kit - they will do the lot. You would probably just need to supply a prepped site. I highlight the "wood faced" aspect as it reduces the water content against the form and improves surface strength of the concrete. Unless you feel really confident. But concrete form work (temporary works) is a whole speciality in it's own right and will be holding back a huge weight of concrete desperate to escape, so really... I wouldn't!

Yep, we often have to spec duct penetrations which will be water tight to commercial (usually city centre) buildings with basements. They still don't call the "basement" contractor - any proper concrete contractor worth his salt will know how to deal with this and will be well versed in these matters. If they are not, don't hire them. I wouldn't be blase about any aspect of construction from the foundations to the ridge tile, each does it's own job and play an important part, what I am saying to the OP don't be getting hung up on a "basement" contractor - as soon as you give someone a name like that they double their fee!

Yes! I grew up with open fires, I have a WBS, I have access to wood, have chainsaws and a hydraulic log splitter, I season all my timber for 18months min, usually more like 24-36 depending on stocks. Now for me that is just normal life, something I have been doing all my life. Then you get people (like our idiot neighbours) who saw we had one and decided to get one too, so they get it, occasionally fill low lying land to the back with thick smoke from damp wood, or stench out the area with the smell of burning flooring off-cuts or other rubbish. They buy wet wood in B&Q at £15 for 3 bags and burn that, you hear him out with a hatchet battering at a log for 30minutes to get 2-3 logs. I ask myself, why did he get that, he has no access to wood, he is a lazy sod anyway who would never prep for it and he just makes a mockery out of a WBS. For him it was a nice little warm box of happiness in their front room. No thought into how he would fuel it, no thought into maybe even building a log shelter, so the whole exercise for them was a total waste of time and money. Ban those idiots.

Or read the Star or Sun or Express where apparently, wood stoves are being banned, cars are being banned, your going to die, Dennis is going to unleash 20" of snow on us while tornados rip through the land.

Yes, for now! -Once we enter the real Orwellian dystopia we will have other things to worry about.

They are not banning smokeless or wood, just trying to limit it to cleaner fuels. Wire in.

I'd just get in a concrete contractor in and get it poured - almost every commercial building built in cites have basements, they don't use a specific "basement" contractor, the guys doing the pour just form a basement in a big hole - nothing special - that will open up your choices.

Oh dear!

Yes 100% I have been saying this for years now. They will remove petrol and diesel over time, gas perhaps, everything becomes electric, the general population then must step into line and pay for electricity and do as they are told. Self generation - fine, but they can then control the equipment costs too.

When you say dispose do you mean to a new home or just bin them? If the latter I'd simply be employing a Stanley knife to section things down and a saw to cut up the frames - make them small enough they will fit in your car and take the bits to the tip. If you want to give them a new good home then what about drag them outside and cover with a good new tarp and advertise for collection - that way no one in your house? I am always moving things to other places and meeting people on my drive with things so they don't actually get to see in my house or garage!

I'd just use a bit of CAT5/phone/bell anything you have lying about to be honest and not waste any money on anything else. That fancy colour coded flat cable you linked to above is fine for doing sort of link pieces and making things very easy to wire up with colour coding etc. but not needed here. The sparks on site had used 0.75mm figure 8 speaker/bell wire on the job yesterday, just as well as they used miles of the stuff.

Depends on loads obviously but stranded CAT5 is a good shout, stranded phone cable for a slightly heavier, if your loads push several amps then any 4-5 core flex at 0.75mm. As said it all depends on loadings. Just because LED tape is low power doesn't mean the loading can go up - 200W drivers are not uncommon for commercial installations - that is 8.33A!

You might consider this: https://shelly.cloud/wifi-smart-shelly-rgbw-2/ You could then tie that into a Shelly system with other bits in your house. The one you posted above is just taken from Shelly and re-branded. Only €14.92 direct.

Are you going to use an aluminium profile and slip on diffuser to clean it all up and make it pro. The job I went to see yesterday we used a recessed profile that was tapped into a rebate the shopfitters made in all the furniture details. i.e. https://www.wholesaleledlights.co.uk/led-strip-lights/led-profiles-extrusions/1m-recessed-aluminium-profile-extrusion-clear-frosted-diffuser.html Also, realistically, a warm white LED tape will look very nice if done well - RGB might be a little, nightclub/teen bedroom and I don't want to offend, but dare I say, "tacky".

Get the consumer grade stuff with little plugs on the end - sort of Ikea job - or get a spark or school kid from the electronics club to solder it up for you. I always spec soldered stuff and it is either done on site to site measured lengths or pre-made by a reputable manufacturer to confirmed lengths.

Just to be clear, you want LED tape, not LED rope - that stuff is literally like a piece of rope with LED's in it. For a bathroom I'd use the IP67 stuff which is encapsulated in a plastic jacket. It just depends on wattage per meter and then work out your load and check the the power supply and any controls can handle it. I was actually on a site yesterday where they were finalising the installation of LED tape - 200m of it in total across cabinets and shelf details etc. It was 14.6W/m - now that was white only, so what they do is split the tape into RGB or RGBW - so if on a similar tape that would be about 5W per colour per meter - so if you say have 20m of it that is 100W per colour per 20m - which on 24V tape is 4.16A per colour - so you need controls that can handle that.

It will vary, I just need speed for the quick pulses, but there will also be the time when I need maybe a 2-5 second relay closed operation the relay is feeding into a control circuit and there is no way to wire it, so I need a wireless option and if I use Shelly units it allows for some other features.

Probably well onto the seconds scale. As I have it linked and setup just now, if I close the switch contacts on "Device 1" within about 1 second "Device 2" will also come on, if I open the switch contacts on "Device 1", then "Device 2" will follow within about 1 second - so sounds quick enough sure and that would be perfect if I just wanted to for example control several lighting circuits from a single switch or something while retaining individual control etc. but I need to be able to use the relay to go closed circuit for perhaps a single 250ms button pulse say within a 150ms tolerance. At the moment if I close the switch contacts on "Device 1" for say 250-500ms then it doesn't even register on "Device 2" so too slow and they are side by side! According to this page (https://shelly.cloud/support/direct-device-to-device-communication-ddd/) if you use DDD (Direct Device to Device) then the "speech" is extremely fast - just a few milliseconds. Sounds good to me. But I cannot get these actions to work. As I see if if I take the "Button Swiched on URL" and make that the IP address of the device I want to control I would make that: http://192.168.0.13/Red/0?turn=on - now assuming that syntax is correct then my thinking is that my device which is online and was at 192.168.0.13 would have come on - not a chirp. OK - so thinking about it all, first these 2 devices must be on the same network obviously, so they were both on the home wi-fi - both therefore I know could see each other as they were talking to each other. So I can only assume that the code is wrong. Then this got me thinking, that means this setup needs to sit on a WiFi network - routers changes, wifi drops out etc. so I was aiming to run them on their own little network - so I set one up as a wifi access point, I can then connect my iPad to its own wifi network and navigate to its little web-server and take command of it via 192.168.33.1 - I could then connect my iPad to the the wifi network of the second device and I could have then linked it to the wifi network of the first device - see where I am going? However, I had a sudden through before I hit yes - how would I then ever connect to that device again? My thinking was that if I then connected to the network formed of the first device, I would be able to see the second device also connected to it and presumably issued with it's own IP address from device 1 - but I wouldn't know what that IP address was and I am not sure how I would locate it as the discover app might not see it - that would then potentially give me a bricked Shelly! Now, I have looked into MQTT stuff and I understand that I could ping MQTT commands about from home automation software and that is something I am interested in for my own house (can anyone recommend good free software for this - Home Assistant? But otherwise how do I create and broadcast MQTT commands? Also, I want to make this 2 device setup as standalone as possible - so I like the idea of pre-configuring them on their own little wifi network then as soon as they power up they should just work. I need to make 4 of these sets.

Someone on this forum was using Shelly1PM for MVHR control with fire detection for automatic shutdown in the event of a fire. Anyway - I have bought several of these and I suspect I am now at an advanced level as more or less anything I want them to do now I can do, but I am struggling as there really is only very limited information from trawling through the internet for days! Basically I want to look into MQTT linking of two units, or using the actions setting and have them host their own network. This is what I am trying to do: I want to have a Shelly1 behind a retractive switch, this switch will connect to the input of the shelly. This device will simply be powered and control nothing itself locally. I want it to speak to a second Shelly some 4-5m away so that when the Shelly gets a switch pulse from the retractive switch it actually controls the relay on the remote Shelly. I need to be able to deliver from a single blip to a long press-and-hold. I have got that working using Scene rules and it does work, but it is too slow, I have read that linking them directly will have a reaction time of ms - that is ideal. My alternative option is to buy a little remote control unit with a momentary relay and a little fob, press the button, relay actuates... it's just not that clever or neat a solution and means losing keyfobs unless I hack the fob and solder the button pins to a faceplate switch - but then I still have fob batteries to replace.

As I saw it (I was nearly in a similar situation as you at one point) I either diamond ground it, or I put on a heavy enough layer of levelling compound and designed for vehicular use (including things like trolley jacks etc.). This was weeks, maybe months of plotting and planning and what I came up with based on pricing things and all sorts. Luckily the problem disappeared for me as we ended up building a new garage!

F H Brundle

Thanks for that, I find that Toolstation appears to sell a lot of poor stuff and I only ever look for branded stuff if I do use them as sometimes they have stuff SF hasn't and they are 3 doors apart.