Carrerahill

Just email or phone your planning officer and ask them what they will accept. I spoke to my officer, she told me to email it over and alter drawings to suit and she's put it through as a non-material variation. Not sure if moving a wall 2 meters would count...

I am ready to fit the worktops, I am now therefore in a bit of a predicament. I like mitred counters, I think it looks smart, I don't know if it's just the geometry of perfectly jointed counters I like because it's clever or if I do actually really care about the joint at an aesthetic level. I like nice engineering and nicely made things so I can sometimes be swayed by something well engineered. I have a 1/4" collet router, which isn't really big enough to take a long enough cutter to do counters and with end float being an issue on long cutters on smaller shafts I just ain't going to risk it. Best case scenario I ruin £500 piece of worktop, worst case I lose an eye. So my thinking was, I will call in the joiner chappy who has done work for my brother and I trust to do the job correctly and well and also to be careful working in my kitchen - then came along the bug from Wuhan! After doing a fair bit of image searching I found that many square edge counters appear just to be butt jointed and clamped (my router will easily deal with the "T" cuts for the clamps) and I have a professional saw that I'd get a brand new fine tooth blade for. However, I suspect that it may actually be laziness and or a lack of skill that many "kitchen fitters" don't take the time to do a mitre. I am tempted to try it myself, I could buy a jig and borrow a 1/2" collet router, buy a couple of good quality cutters and go for it. I could always cut the male piece initially too long as a trial cut.

It depends what you like/want. I like creating scallops of light down walls, I like creating interesting light, my attitude is an office should simply be lit whereas a home should be bathed in light. Light is a medium and lights are light artist tools of the trade. Look at the lighting in this hallway - it is subtle but very cleverly thought out. So you need to consider, the optics employed, colour temperature, sharp or soft cut off's etc. Also bear in mind, that when lighting a space, you must consider what your eyes are going to be looking at, no point in having the floor of a room lit highly yet the walls are dark because that automatically makes the room feel dark. Some rooms benefit from the walls and task areas being lit but very little attention to general light. Restaurants are often lit like this - very low ambient level, but tables, bars and areas of importance picked out in light. You have only lifted the cover of this book!

Hmmm. The whole thing? I hate with a passion people who have drives/carbays with gravel and most of the gravel ends up on the pavement/road which just get ground into the running surface and wears it down, planners know this also and often the first section should be solid, however, I am surprised they are looking for a whole drive to be bound as that is not conducive to draining your drive within your own land. Bound means "bound" in as much as the stuff is held together, tarmac is a bound surface.

That is just a little surface rust.

You know what would work, add another piece to the existing bit. Assuming the ceiling area is small and you have spare board.

That is a nicely executed curve to be fair!

POST REMOVED AS I WAS TOO LATE TO THE PARTY!

In that case, take those piece down (for all they are) slide the diagonal up till it hits the horizontal timbers then re-cut the ceiling PB to suit.

Plasterers can cover up almost anything to be honest, however, here it looks like the diagonal piece should have been a bit higher and the horizontal piece cut back a bit so the join was level, the issue you will have here is if he plasters that out, he will end up having to build up the material across the horizontal sheet a fair bit to get the level looking right, and you will always then have a uneven section which may show against the wall depending on finishing and eye lines etc. Personally I would have done that in a single piece by scoring and snapping the piece but not broken it off to get a really nice straight line. Straight sharp lines look better, curved lines look like you were trying to hide a mess and he will not than you for that if he is there to do a skim coat as that will need built up.

You guys were all quite interested in this at the time and John's nudge has prompted me to do a model of the kitchen and calc the lighting, this is mainly for you @SteamyTea as I know you were keen on the theory and calcs and I know @ragg987 you were interested on lighting levels. When I posted this at first I did not have the kitchen design finalised so I can now use the kitchen layout drawing to create a good model of the space (complete with kitchen and worktops) where I can then check the theoretical light level on the surface (lighting calcs are always prepared with a carefully calculated reduced light source to allow for many factors up to and including dust in the room) which will in fact be slightly less than real world light levels on day one. Once done I will post it all and let you know on this post so you can find it.

Hi John, the kitchen ceiling has been done and the kitchen is now in but things have slightly run aground due to Corona so lighting has been delayed a bit as it will be a custom solution. I have however got the LED boards that will go into the suspended up-lighter, so my plan, when I get a minute, was to wire them up and get them into the kitchen sitting on top of the cabinets for now just to give us light until we get the real thing in. At present we are using 100% daylight - which interestingly, at this time of the year meets all out needs unless its post 21:00. So quite pleased that this kitchen will not really need lit a lot of the time and I suspect daylight dimming will be well worthwhile.

I used some left over varnish and painted them all, had about 4 shades, tipped them all into one pot and used as a general sealer for many things during the build.

Only in large volumes, he only needs a cupful, it's not going to deplete the oxygen of an entire quarry or loch.

I assume it must spring up from a water hole further down the hill rather than just form at the old quarry?

The datasheet for that stuff states: Environmental precautions – Do not allow to contaminate water courses

Milk. It was the water dye of choice for years.

You can use it as garden lime. Do yo have a big garden that yo could "lose" it in (a bit like I do with spare sharp sand) or need the pH level raised anywhere in your garden?

You could just send some samples of some bits of various materials to a asbestos lab, about £40 for 2 samples and make note of where they were from, and say all materials tested, all waste treated as normal hazard. Then state that you had it tested and as none existed you continued as normal.

Fair enough, however, ensure whatever you buy and how you lay it is suitable for vehicular use - even if you don't put a car in the garage, assume someone might.

Neither would I, if you consider how many coats of paint it will need over the years, the labour to empty it all out and clean and paint it, OK paint is cheap and even at £20 a year assuming £40 of paint every two years it's not going to save money but it's more the hassle and in the grand scheme of things, if you can afford it and yo want it then why not? I would suggest it is certainly probably one of the last projects I would ever consider, but it's not bad. A lucky haul of cheap end of line tiles and DIY install and you could potentially do it for less than £500.

It could well be, if so then he is looking for a 6V transformer somewhere (could also be 12V, solenoid would probably work on both without coming to harm), but, my guess from looking at the wiring is that it was originally wired front and back doors with a different chime for front of back, hi-lo for front, lo-hi for back etc. I had an even earlier version of this type of chime (1960's) with a mercury tilt switch in it! Still have it somewhere actually.

It is batteries, I can tell from the contacts either end and the battery markings on the back of the case..

Lockdown cleaning virus got you too?

Nod, was it you that posted some images of a big dry lining project you had done recently? A big MF and board wall?