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  1. Need to place an order for a Pent shed quite soon. Found a supplier I like who was happy to make some bespoke adjustments to the standard sized sheds. The main bespoke feature we've asked for is for the roof to be extended so that we can have a pent shed that doubles up as a log store on the outside, by having the roof overhang project by 600mm on that side, creating an overhang to shelter the wood from the rain. Here is a basic sketch showing plan and side and front elevations: This is a 6' by 14' shed: on the short side (which is South facing) we've got three windows and on the long side (which is East facing) we have the entry door, then a window, then space for the logs. The shed is going in the back corner of my garden, so no possibility of adding windows to the other sides. A few queries: Are the windows sufficient to get much light into the shed? I'm conscious half the shed will probably be in darkness but presumably a battery operated (or perhaps solar powered) lamp can easily be installed? I do have power in the garden, but not close to the shed, so to get power there I would have to lay some 12m of armoured cable and bury it in trunking etc, which I rather not do. Any issues with battery/solar power for this kind of illumination? I won't be working in the shed often, illumination is mainly to see my around and find and store things. Thoughts on the front elevation? Would it be better to split the log store into two piles, and have the window in between them, rather than all the wood in one pile? Will the log store stay dry? 600mm overhang at a slight angle of say 10 degrees will result in a covered space of about 590mm. My logs won't be bigger than 25cm long, so this should give enough space for two rows stacked perpendicular to the shed wall (250 x 2 = 500) plus a 90mm gap for rain that doesn't fall perfectly straight. Alternatively, is this all wrong and should the wood store be on the South facing side which will be sunnier than the East facing side? The reason I hadn't put the wood on the South facing side is that because of some tall trees we have at the back of the garden I don't think it will make a huge amount of difference, maybe an extra 10% to 15% of sunlight hours. Thanks in advance.
  2. Hi I need to provide power to 3 external buildings - a small flat and 2 barns - without the need for 3 separate SWA cables. In the main house, I already have a 100A 2 pole isolator switch between the meter and a Henley block. From the Henley block tails supply the power to the CU for the main house. I plan to have a 16mm2 SWA also from the same Henley block to feed power to the flat. In the flat, the SWA will enter a Henley block. From this Henley block, I will then have a feed to the CU of the flat and the other feed to the first barn. Same in the first barn where it has a Henly block and again 2 exits from it to the CU in the barn and the other providing a feed to the second barn. In the 2nd barn, the SWA simply goes directly to its CU. So, there is a "continuous" 16mm2 SWA cable that provides power to all 3 buildings with a feed into each CU per building from a Henley block (I have estimated the expected total load to be lower than 75A, which is the operating limit for 16mm2 underground). I would like to know if this sounds acceptable? I may even add an additional 2 pole isolator switch in each building to isolate each without affecting any other building downstream. The other query I have is earthing. The main house is a TN-C-S system. The flat is brick and the barns are wood (all on concrete bases). There is a water supply to the buildings and therefore 10mm2 bonding will be used. I assume it is fine to use an "exported PME" - to use the earth provided by the supplier (the earth in the house), rather than using a TT earth local to the buildings. Sorry if not clear, I can provide a drawing if required. Thanks Dave
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