Carrerahill

I'm going to say no, but always the chance, I will check. I had this issue about a year ago with the same stuff - not even sure the make, just the stuff they stock - not happy about that now as I don't know who's it is therefore is it cheap tat! I have been reading since I posted, was going to go for Hep but local SF only have 1 3m length in stock, plenty JG - tempted to do two JG runs across the ceiling. £9 in pipe, some susperseal inserts and some 90's (which I have in stock as I plumbed a sink with it in a garage area).

Quick background story. I ripped apart my old kitchen yesterday now that the extension kitchen is more or less complete, ceiling came down, floor is coming up today and the first task is to move water services to their permanent location. I'll be removing 100% of the old waste pipes and relocating the stop cock later today too. Until now the old kitchen has back-fed the extension via the bathroom supplies, as of today I ought to be feeding the whole house from the new kitchen and the pipework removed that used to head from the old kitchen. The easiest and safest way for me was to remove much of the old pipework. However it has turned into a heck of a job because I ended up ended up needing to remove all the bathroom plumbing and discovered a few little surprises along the way. I had bought copper to do it all but realistically this is going to take a long time as I have to make up about 9 feeds to things, I have to come across the ceiling of the old kitchen and with copper and soldering, my preferred method it will take me probably all day. To run the pipes across the ceiling I am going to need to notch the bottom of each joist and chisel out a protective plate gap, fit 2 15mm pipes, install the plates, solder it all up, which means pretty much spot on alignment to ensure the joints sit unstressed and the whole think just sounds bad. So I am looking at the plastic pipe I also have here (I bought 3m as I suspected I may need to snake a 1m section in behind a toilet) and I see how bendy it is, I could literally drill each joist, feed the pipe in as it bends so freely, and be across the ceiling, much higher up the joist so in the safe zone in about 25minutes, but I cannot bring myself to use plastic. I just don't trust it and I don't know why not. Here is the other thing, the pipe and inserts I have here as sold to me by my merchant don't seem right. JG fittings you have the push the insert in, the insert mechanically supporting the pipe so it cannot just deform or crush when in a fitting, these inserts are a rattle fit. How can they possibly work? I questioned this and a plumber and they thought it was OK. Well sorry, that just doesn't make sense, I may as well not fit them if they offer no internal support? So here I am, deliberating what could be a hard days work, or a very hard days work. Did I also mention I need to do all this and re-board the ceiling and walls today.

Correct. I have just done some very rough maths, my garage was just short of 500 blocks, call it 500, so labour worked out at 70p a block labour only, which if I simply add the cost of the materials order worked out at £1.70 a block - however, I had about 75 blocks left and maybe 75Kg of sand and some cement left too so really the cost was probably sub £1.60. I'd always have brickies price for labour only as ordering block/sand/cement is something I'd always do. Extension worked out at £1.50 labour - but to be honest the actual job price was fantastic, lots of windows/door so actually not a lot of block but many cuts (although I did most of them in the end) and lots of lintels etc. to bed in. Therefore I didn't care the cost was higher. As a job price it was very fair for the guys time on site. If someone said to me, they'd take £25 to core a 4" hole through a wall I'd say fine as that is worth it to me if I need that job done, but I can get a labourer to core holes all day for £150 and in a day I reckon could make a wall resemble Swiss cheese but at £25 for 1 I'd be happy. So there is always the balance of what is a job worth to you vs breaking it down to per unit cost. You also have to take into consideration the "turn up" price. Realistically some jobs might only take an hour, but that is on site, the guys got to get here. If I wanted a single panel wall built for the garden and it was 80 blocks and someone said they would take £150.00 I'd think that was probably OK - but that is £1.88 a block - I would not be happy to pay £940 for my garage to be built.

Not sure what size pipe you use, but as a very quick search: https://www.bes.co.uk/25-mm-end-cap-yellow-mdpe-philmac-16074/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwiYL3BRDVARIsAF9E4Gd8ja3UKQHm0s4h9UrGSCJTPVOQZlx-Ne9dG78OiTNqkiKX1cJLgIcaAnT1EALw_wcB

That Wren J-pull? Looks the same as ours, we have Pebble Gray - yours looks like it could be the same or similar at least.

How it should be!

Skewered with a great big pointy stick.

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Your not comparing apples to apples though. If I did Joe90's version in that single location it would look stupid - his version bookends in some full height cabinets and I have said it works, I only have a decor panel there to finish off the side of the fridge freezer cabinet which abuts a worktop, further round I have 2 under-cabinet sections which bookend in the oven unit because the kitchen designer needed to find about 40mm so that I could have symmetry, so we opted to put a decor panel (you only see the front) either side of the oven cabinet which gave us 38mm - near enough. If I had these sticking out that would look stupid - so go and ask your missus if she would like two pieces of decor panel randomly sticking out next to an oven where it would end up a mess, and then ask her would she not want to see a matching detail throughout. I also have some wall cabinets which come to a finish so the hob area could be created, then restart after the hob, I wanted a gap for a glazed cooker-hood, so there are decor panels to the end of those, if I randomly had them sticking out 20mm longer than the cabinets, again, that would look odd and would have wreaked havoc with the pelmets. At the end of the day, I suggested our OP could edge that tiny little bit of worktop like I had done, and that would solve his issue and look smart. yet everyone has jumped on my back like the bloody sky fell down. You better let Wren and Magnet know they are wrong too. I'll just quietly observe from now on.

I am sure you did plan it, but think of it this way, you need to cut the decor panel to fit it regardless, I wanted mine flush with the doors/drawers (as per all the display kitchens I looked at) and that then required that the worktop be edged in this position, so this created work for my joiner. Onoff suggests that is a cheating bodge, I don't see how that is, that is what I take issue with. So is this method a cheat? If it is then it's a long route for a shortcut. Regarding the term "bodge" I am just using OnOff's words, I was reversing what he said really, I cannot see how more work is a bodge. Your isolated cabinets within the decor panels looks fine, I don't really have any comment one way or another, I am really replying to OnOff and have no issue with your method or workmanship - in my kitchen I think it would be fair to say this method suit better. I understand that the panel is fixed, but it has been "floated out" is what I am saying and assuming you cut it to allow the plinth to run through cleanly then it leaves it "floating out".

Also, the chap who did our worktops is a cabinet maker, so well beyond kitchen fitting, he perfectly scribed and fitted our worktops to, I'd say, about 0.5mm accuracy (yet on this forum I was told that 5-10mm on worktops was fine, so much for anal perfectionists of BH) and with the masons mitre joints that I can hardly see. So stand in my kitchen and tell me that my "professional" just wanted to get onto the next job.

Yes...

Utter nonsense. Joe90's detail is an option, but does it look much nicer? In isolated section of cabinetry, like this, possibly it might work but it would not be my preference. In the photo shown it works if that is what you like, because it acts as bookends to the full height cabinets, but in my kitchen for example it would look like I wasn't able to measure properly, my method actually takes more skill and time therefore I cannot see how it is a bodge! I don't want decor panels floating out into my kitchen, that in my eyes is wrong and given it is not commonly done I am going to make the statement that it is therefore not, "the way it is done". You know what is going to happen there, as they are proud they are just going to take more knocks and scratches. Using factory supplied edging and putting it on properly and trimming it (he used a small router with a laminate trimmer) you would never know it was not factory, so tell me that is a bodge and tell me that takes less time than floating a decor panel forward? Frankly leaving a cut edge and leaving a decor panel big or floating out out is the bodge.

I think this is common. We wad this situation twice on our new kitchen (worktops were installed last week) the worktops came with edging strip and he just used some Colorfill and stuck a bit on and trimmed it and edged and what not. We were even warned in the Wren showroom this would need done on site after cutting. I can only assume you don't have edging tape...

That isn't a panel and never has been though, that is a low profile down-light. That is a case of someone calling it a panel because it is thin but it is not more a panel than a search-light. If you want diffused light there are far better ways of achieving it while keeping a smart domestic look, multifaceted reflectors or etched diffusers etc. even some GU10 lamps now come with an optic system which will give uniform distribution without the tight beam angles and sharp cut-offs.

Again, this mention of panels! Do you, @dpmiller and @Onoff know what an LED panel is? This is a panel...

LED panels! It ain't an office!

The first issue you experienced is one of the biggest problems with working on RCD protected circuits that are only off at the MCB. For this reason individual RCBO's are good but certainly more expensive way of doing things. The only way to avoid this is to disconnect the neutral too or simply switch off the RCD too but that might not suit. Which is why next week when my new 20 something way Wylex hi-integrity board goes in there will be some non-RCD protected submains, some RCBO circuits (fridge freezers) and a good split between the two RCD's on the split way. The second issue, well, it could be a few things. Does the surge protector still work OK? Assuming the circuit sits OK without the surge protector and USB adaptors then I would suggest it is safe to assume, however, assumption is never good when it comes to electrics - investigate until you know for sure.

I would use something like this: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AAJB60.html?source=adwords&ad_position=&ad_id=415703895075&placement=&kw=&network=u&matchtype=&ad_type=&product_id=AAJB60&product_partition_id=351476229327&campaign=shopping_accessories&version=finalurl_v3&gclid=CjwKCAjw8J32BRBCEiwApQEKgTIGSLdYjkmKXYLyip3tP_5YIhEwGaKbUjzy6NpqSTz6nxnVC1_GuBoCz80QAvD_BwE You can cleanly terminate the 10mm into that and then your 3 No. 2.5mm (probably doubled over to increase size).

I assume you will have some timber on site you can use, maybe even plenty spares of off-cuts that can be made into treads? As for laying out the stair it is not bad, the simplest way to do it is to lay the stringer material on-site exactly how you want it to sit, go for a nice pitch that is safe and easy, put it in place, then use a block to mark the floor cut, cut that then put it back in position and mark the top cut, that is now your template for the other stringer. Measure FFL to FFL and divide it by about 175 to get you going, round that up to the next full number and that will be your no. of treads minus the last one which is technically the next floor, divide your FFL to FFL by that no. you came up with and make sure it is within 150-220mm for a decent stair. Subtract from your rise height the thickness of your material, so say 45-50mm, you can then measure up that distance parallel to your floor and mark it, that is where your first block sits, then measure off that line for the rest, remember that your measurement should be from top of tread to top of tread so always remember your material thickness. The other way to do it is to use a steel square with inch markings on it, you can work out your pitch ratio, then use your square sitting at the pitch ratio on the timber to mark your tread positions super quickly. This legendary man explains it clearly:

That's the boys! You can then walk, carefully, down them normally rather than going down backwards too.

Are you taking many materials up these?

Depending on what your situation is, what about a couple of 2x8's as stringers, and some 2x6/2x8 treads, gives you a cheap "stair" that will be safer and easier to use than a ladder. I've done quite a few semi-permanent stairs this way, only takes an hour or so to knock together if you just use blocks to support treads. Also means when you are done you can unscrew it all and have 2 pieces of 2x8 and pieces of 2x6 that can no doubt be used as noggins or something. Think the last set I built, which are still in use were actually 2x6 stringers and 2x8 treads.

Lean on it harder, if not loaded they don't always hammer. The mechanism needs to be "returned" so that it can hammer again, so no opposing force then no hammer action. The mechanisms are packed with grease so when nice and new and tight they can be a little reluctant. I have removed the factory grease before now and repacked with a high quality grease with a little EP90/120 oil in with it, works a treat.

This is how it works, our handrail to the back won't be compliant, I have perspex sheets that can bolt on temporarily to make it look like it will be.