Carrerahill

It could, but I think with delineation pins it would be fine. Cost is one thing, but I am stubborn and do things like that...

You beat me to it. I second this.

That gap is not good, it will let things in, they should have used a vent strip or closed it in a bit more, but I am also questioning that monstrosity of a joint detail! Clearly they have not heard of a "bottle" or "bonding gutter".

You could, I would cost up the options though, by the time you put in suitable conduit, conduit glands & saddles you may find that ordering a length of 2 or 3 core SWA is about the same price and less hassle for the installing electrician as they just need to run in a cable, clip it and terminate it. 2.5mm SWA is not that expensive, you will get some saddles for 20p each and 2 glands for £5. Alternatively, mount the isolator on the house and bring the cable in the back (properly sealed with a grommet) and then run a piece of SWA from the isolator to the ASHP assuming it is indeed close enough.

That does sound very expensive, I had SPEN do a 3 phase cable diversion on one of my projects last week and including the cable (12m) and 4m of trench, putting in joint boxes & a new cable head it was £2200. They also beautifully reinstated the slabs at the front of the building.

I do detect the sarcasm but it is the sort of thing I would do.

Does he work for the council? Put up your own fence on your side?

For emulsion you would want a stacked solution, I spray paint a lot, cellulose, 2K, synthetics, waterborne & emulsion and use different "stacks" depending on what I need. The emulsion has the benefit that it should be low on fumes, but a sore throat will follow after painting emulsion without correct masks. I use a 3M mask with an FFP3 filter which is for dust, most of the spray painting fall out is actually considered dust, so first protection is the dust, then you want a a ABE1 filter, which is organic and inorganic vapour (emulsion, I have found sometimes is made with organic pigment and sometimes inorganic). The filters I use are 3M 6057 filters, and the top FFP3's click in on top of them. The 6057's are available from Screwfix and are reusable.

If you end up needing to pay someone, and you chose to DIY it, I would be tempted just to mix up some concrete and bulk fill the back of the kerbing. Would just be material cost, and time, if you have any spare. If it was me and the installation generally looks smart, and I was going to need to DIY it, I would dig out the back, chip down to the same line as the bottom of the kerb, clean it all so adhesion is good, I would even probably PVA the back of the kerbs (total overkill but that is me) then tip in bulk concrete then haunch it neatly with a trowel. That would lock it into place and the PVA would help get a really good bond between the concrete and the kerb to essentially "glue" it into place. Mortars and concrete have no shear strength, however, in practice I have seen plenty of blocks and bricks and other masonry products which have been bonded together with mortar or concrete so strong that the masonry product breaks before the bond. So it is possible to lock something in place albeit not the "right" way. Make the concrete with a bit extra cement and not too dry, the extra cement and water will make a nice paste which will make contact with the kerb and make a good bond.

A 12m run of 2.5mm² Twin & Earth or SWA on a 16A breaker will be well within spec. No need to provide a 2.5mm earth. If you use a 2.5mm² T&E the CPC will be 1.5mm² - this is fine, if you use SWA you could use 2 core and the armour or 3 core and a core for earth and armour. Assuming this unit is outdoor, I would use SWA.

You know something, that might just be what I want... thanks

I don't mind, we will all learn! I just want to have all the stuff in stock so I can go in all guns blazing some Saturday and get it done pronto. To clarify my kerb requirement, I don't want a kerb as in step as such, what I want to create is a little raised bit - I think 50mm would work but that is more a trip hazard, so I think I must go 75mm to make it a big enough step not to be a trip hazard, I also want the raised space to create a services zone below, and I am slightly afraid of level showers in case of floods, I feel this will also enable me to create a floodzone that could take 20-30 litres in the event of a drainage issue. Maybe I am just creating a potential disaster but I think plenty of people have walk-in showers on the first floor.

There will be an element of the builders adding an insurance company mark-up and then just rip-off London prices. The prices are high, but what portion of that is for the insurance company to pay? I would first find out what the insurance elements are and then speak to the insurer and see if they spit out their coffee. Maybe they will think that is fine, but they are used to being ripped off. Car repair shop I know, £150 a panel for paint, £250 a panel for repair and paint. If through an insurance company it is £4000 a side for paint and they will "only do a single side to get a good blend" more for crash damage. The chap who does the work will paint in a panel and you cannot see the difference as he uses the in house paint mix system and even ages paint etc. to suit. The whole side re-spray and "blend" thing is just a made up industry thing to rip off insurers. Maybe on a small ding blow-in but not a full panel of paint. Anyway, I digress, but you get the point.

Some people! I am with you.

You might get away without lifting the edging blocks, the main vehicular load when struck is trying to push them back, if they are dampened first and the concrete is not too dry, then a good bond should form and key it all in, in which case it should be OK for low level impact on a private residential drive. In an ideal world though, it would be haunched both sides, albeit the front face less/lower.

I cannot actually find the kerb on sale anywhere - yet. I like the idea of cutting strips of the board.

I am on a suspended timber floor, but I did see someone simply use some wood... bricks would work well if I was on concrete. I think it would just need to be solid and without flex so the tiling doesn't crack.

It seems you have completely ignored what I wrote, and asked, what I have already explained, what to do... The whole lot needs to be bedded and surrounded by concrete to lock it in. If you leave it as it is and just add more haunching you will be wasting your time.

At present I am thinking of using the Schluter system, they do a kerb, then I was going to do it the old fashioned way and use a dry pack mortar to make the base, then Schluter membrane and joint tapes etc. That is the plan for now, we will see how that pans out once others comment on options and experiences.

I am going to form a slightly raised shower area in the bathroom. I found a system by Schluter which is the membrane and waterproofing joints and tapes etc. Has anyone done this recently and can they give their advise and thoughts on it all, systems and products used please?

Use 50mm waste, solvent weld, include rodding points. Plenty of brackets, then you have a solid, larger bore pipe which will handle most waste and if needs rodded its bigger and a solid install. I have a fair bit of inaccessible 50mm waste but access points and a solid install mean I can get in and snake it easily enough. Under my sink I have a 50mm tee, into that tee I reduce to 40 and catch both wastes separately (this gives overflow protection if one U bend blocks and lets you get the job done before you get round to unblocking it). I also use Tee's here and there with a 50mm screw on access point so I can get in.

Ignore the 2 way switching, that is irrelevant to the stair wiring and all happens before the drivers. Let the electrician sort the switching and feed to the drivers. The RGBW LED's will be SELV so they will be run in on some multicore, so locate the drivers remotely and run the low voltage wiring out to the LED's. This also means you are not having to hide drivers etc. etc. and makes them easier, if you put them somewhere sensible, to access for maintenance & replacement. How to control them, I don't know what you want to do? Personally I would just fit some warm white LED's and be done with it, maybe your creating a fairground though? If just a warm white LED detail then just switch it, and you can pre-set your dimming, or add them to a dimming circuit. However, I assume it is just some ambient deorative light, in which case a nice glow would work well. RGBW control will require an scene controller, or a wireless app type thing. When done commercially it is usually paired up with a dimming system, I usually use Mode systems. In a domestic setting you could use Lutron kit for quality, but most of this ends up being the little scene wheels or LCD screen. All becomes a pain in the backside.

Simple, yes, but it will be time consuming. It needs to be lifted and reset to the highways standard. If this was done by a civils contractor to make it vehicle proof it would be fully bedded and haunched in concrete. I'd dig it out and down so that the bedding material can be at least 100mm deep under the kerb. So fully bed them in concrete complete with full haunching to the rear to support and ideally a lower huanching would be created to the front too, but that would mean lifting the paving in a section to get access. The lower hauching to the front is to allow for tarmac, concrete, paving etc.

This is my thought and why I am having a off-grit/island mode portion of the main system. Also why I have a WBS if I am honest.

You will easily get 25mm through duct.25 Practically every external circuit outside the domestic environment is installed in duct, 50mm, 100mm and 150mm being the most common. 95mm cable in a 100mm duct, no issue. How far is your run? Residential laterals I tend to design in 25mm up to about 35m then 35mm after that. DNO will use split concentric cable which is rated slightly higher than xlpe swa.