Carrerahill

I think you will be expected to pay about 10-20K for that. We recently put in an application to Western for a project of ours and needed a HV POC with a 250kVA tranny, that was £100,000. We wanted 175kVA from that right enough so deduct some for smaller cables to your property. You should have applied for no more than 2-5kVA for a residential power supply, you might want to check what you are looking for and see if someone has screwed up their figures.

It is an existing building therefore it shall need to comply only with the regs when it was built and there is likely no legal requirement for anything. These days it would be fully compartmentalised, probably 120minute ceiling fire barrier. When you say polystyrene tiles, do you mean a 600mm x 600mm suspended ceiling like you typically get in offices? I would doubt it is just floor joists with only a suspended ceiling below, how old is the construction? At a guess I would say the ceiling in the chippy is false, if you know the owners well enough why don't you ask to pop in when before they open and get an idea of the ceiling makeup, or lift a floor board and look down if that is at all feasible. Is the noise transfer really really bad? Or fairly muffled? Critically here you cannot really do anything about it, you would need to have a very understanding and willing chippy owner willing to close the chippy and install a fire rated ceiling. There is little point protecting it from above as the joists would burn out leading to collapse anyway. You could add some fire boarding above in your flat, which would help, in the early stages of the fire, to stop the spread, but once the structure is gone its gone and so is your floor.

Just how tight are we talking? Have you seen slate clips? I am sure you could rejig those to work. Angled screw driver and screws? Could you, depending on weight/size here, fasten the slates down first as a panel then move into position and fix down? Draw the layout out of the slates on the membrane then put in nails where required with round heads just smaller than the slate hole and sticking up enough, and "hang the slates". A combo of the above plan with slate hangers. Buy one of these panels of fake slates. Get the mouse to do it with a tiny hammer.

It depends, if its going to end up getting ruined by careless contractors bashing past it for the next 6 months then I would say hold off, you could put the lining/frame in and add protection. Depends how your going to trim round the door ext/int when you would need to get it in, but in most normal situations you could screw in a wooden door lining, made from 2x6 and a temp door. Also depends on things like security. Can you obtain a second hand temp door?

Would the IC let you rod down the line then?

If it was me and your neighbours were amenable and not feckless, handless types, then I would be thinking about getting some rods down the line and see what you can do initially. On a run like that I would be concerned as to why it blocked up, slipped joint, or is there a branch or chamber with a bad bend or high point that has led to a blockage. Straight lines of soil pipe laid correctly should be bombproof. You show a photo of the pipe, no pea gravel in sight, did they just throw it in and bury it? If the pipe section with a blockage is anything like that I can see all sorts of issues potentially from settlement letting poorly coupled pipes disconnect and slip etc.

It is possible, in a bind, to split a cable and use 2 pairs for one connection 2 pairs for another assuming no POE etc. Has its limitations such as only 100mbit, but I have done it and it works fine for things like printers.

Before you continue, what are the reasons for this and have you assessed the impact on under house ventilation etc.? I am not suggesting you should not do this, but I am suggesting you need to take into consideration quite a number of things. Even if it is cross air ducting for vent to other parts, ducts for services that may or may not go in in the future. You don't mention a DPM in your make up. The answer is yes you can add more hardcore, lay it in 100-150mm layers and compact, but we aware of using a compactor inside a house as the alterations to ground conditions can damage founds and walls but at 200-400mm of hardcore you do need to compact it.

Don't wrap anything in tape, that is not really a suitable termination. If it was me and the house is, by the sounds of it, original 30's wiring, I would take it all out and rewire. If that is not on the cards for just now then strip back each circuit to the last accessory on the circuit before the area you want to remove. I must however add some caveats. Depending on what the circuits are and how they were wired you may have ring mains, in which case you might think you are terminating a circuit but it's actually live from both sides, I do not know how much you know about electrics so forgive me if you know this stuff. So say it was lighting circuits, I would want to find the last thing it connected to before it entered the demo-zone. Say it was a lighting radial, then I would want to go back to say the hall light, and disconnect it there so that there are no pieces of random live wire kicking about. It might be worth uncovering it all and asking a spark to come and carry out the isolation and maybe advise the state of the electrics.

Google images, Pinterest and Instragram is all you need. Even go through the Dulux, Farrow & Ball, Little Greene sites and look at the photography, I get a lot of ideas by accident when looking for paint. Wallpaper manufacturers, even carpet manufactures sites, all show interiors. I have to deal with interior designers maybe 1 in 6 projects we are involved in, the worst are the ones who have no clue about how buildings go together and work and just show colour and fabric swatches and pick daft stuff that will be a nightmare to make work. They also overstep their mark in my opinion when they start to get involved in things that have nothing to do with them. The most recent was one who wanted to omit fire alarms in a hotel lobby! You would be better with an architect with an interest in buildings, at least they then know what can and cannot realistically happen.

That is immaculate!

No, the waste pipe will be rated the same or higher than the water pipes, the solvent weld stuff I bought was 90° constant and 115° temporary. Think that you could have a hot shower from water pipes made of the same stuff as the heating, draining down the waste, essentially the temps are the same after a while. Or a dishwasher or washing machine emptying from a 90° wash. I often give my kitchen sink a kettle or two of boiling water when I think fat may have been spilled. Don't panic! If it was wiring, I would maybe start to sit up.

Assuming all of this will be after the meter and it is therefore your responsibility and of no concern to DNO, then 25mm 4 Core SWA, at that size conductor, armour will be suitable for earth. If DNO side they will supply 16mm or 25mm split concentric - probably 16mm as they apply a lot more diversity than anyone else ever would.

I got a piece of 18mm OSB, built a frame under it with 2x4, sanded it and gave it a coat of clearcoat so it actually looks decent (well for a garage workshop) resin anchored some threaded rod into the wall, put this "shelf" up just above head height above my work bench, it gave me some hanging space, somewhere to mount a task light (just a 4500Lumen 4000K LED batten on a local switch) - next decent offcut of OSB or ply I will make my tool board. But having the shelf there solved so many immediate issues. I call it the tool gantry. I have my safety specs, carpenters square, hammer, level, hand saw and things like that all hung there as they are sort of the everyday stuff. Toolchest and safe next to the bench so everything is within a few steps.

You need something like perfo board or "shadow board". https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/storage-and-handling/storage-systems/14025115-11-0-5m-perfo-panel-single/p/ZT1021308X?utm_source=google&utm_campaign=pla%2B|%2BStorage %26 Handling&utm_term=ZT1021308X&utm_medium=pla_css_2&targetid=pla-395480001257&loc_physical_ms=1007336&dev=c&gclid=Cj0KCQjwr-SSBhC9ARIsANhzu16z25Hc8ruFNQ2aXnppzH5Y2irm_EBZqnA8vuse6MaMri9p8rcudHAaAkhZEALw_wcB I use a sheet of 4x8 ply or OSB, painted white and carefully mark out and fit hooks and pins.

Yes, our mechanical consultants did the vent and air, so they worked out that the system they were providing gave suitable fresh air, therefore CO2 would not be an issue. I work in kVA and W and A not kPa and °C so I am not claiming to be an expert but I just know that our side of the office didn't need to include them due to the clever design done on the other side!

No, to be fair it is right. Common to have a CO2 in master bedroom in Scotland, it does not need to be on the interlinked fire alarm system though as it's not a fire alarm. CO for combustion appliances, usually done with a combined CO/optical head.

The CO2 alarm doesn't need to be part of the fire alarm, it is just a monitor/warning alarm if the CO2 ppm gets too high, you get staged alerts then a danger level. Maybe if houses were built with proper ventilation rather than stupid sealed boxes. I have just finished a residential development of 36 flats just outside of Glasgow, we omitted the CO2's a design stage because we could prove the MVHR system would provide suitability fresh air.

I have taken assumption it is export...

Assume you're consuming 279.1kWh within your home thus it will not be shown as "generated" as you consumed it.

Right, I have been staring at this for a while, I have an idea, sort of, it will need developed. Get yourself 2 outlet ends rather than the running outlet, some bits of gutter offcut, some solvent weld 32 or 40mm waste pipe, solvent cement and a sol-weld waste pipe coupler, other supplies and materials will be needed too. What you do is create two outlet ends, with 40mm outlet, I would solvent weld a piece of gutter into the outlet, drilled to the size of a 40mm coupler, solvent weld that on, turn it upside down and pour in some epoxy or something to seal it all up and make it solid. You now have a 40mm gutter connector, you can then take that on a 90° bend right into your fascia, however, then sleeve over a bit of normal downpipe so it looks normal. Drill a 32/40mm hole in the fasica and then can you deal with it in your loft somehow? Looking at it, could you get a piece of solvent weld up from the garage, into the loft space? I also say do 2 outlets because that will help with the face you have lost a lot of pipe size, yes it will overflow in heavy rain and yes it will block up easier (well maybe not on a slate roof with no tall trees apparent nearby), but I think it will work. I think maybe you should do this after BC have been, mind you, they might not even question it if they see the 68mm pipe and just assume you lost it somewhere in the building. In fact, I am now going to see if I can make one of these to solve a gutter issue on my garage!

Ouch. What about run the gutter right across the two dormers, I've seen that done on a lot of older 1900's properties, it doesnt actually look that bad, mind you, it's castiron and self supporting, uPVC might sag. Another option would be to dive into the sofit and along, although you have pitched sofits so probably no space. What will your drive be? Hard surface or gravel? If a gravel then could you leave it for now, get BC sign off then just remove it and let the water come down onto the gravel, if hard surface I would say no as it will splash too much but you might get away with it on gravel. Or, could you dress the gutter round the 90° and return it towards window say 4 inches, then have the outlet, then drop it in hard against the house and just below the window, then take a very shallow run which would be less intrusive. I think I would investigate no gutter for a while.

I have just had a look at a site for panels, and they claim it is on full systems only?!? So if I wanted to top up with 4-5 panels, I won't get the 5% break, however, I think all the companies will just bump up their price 5% and leave it as was claiming "rising costs" prices never come down!

I only tip the takeaway delivery guy/girl. I give them £1.50. No other form of delivery driver will ever get anything from me, doing their job. Takeaway drivers get something because they are usually students. My brother often gives them things, screen wash was one tip he gave a guy, he gave a girl bleach once. I am not kidding. He never has change and just gives them stuff.

I've read the questions, they will note create an accurate snapshot of the cost and time overrun problems because the questions are not written well. For example, you need overcost values of more like half a million to a million and more!