Carrerahill

Wire two PIR's onto it, or get a long range unit from CP electronics, or microwave, etc. there are options. You could even use 2 Shellys, PIR near you, which triggers the input terminals on the shelly to turn on for x time and then use the remote shelly relay to switch on, wire that in after the local PIR switched live, and if that PIR triggers too, it will bring on the light. That is how multi-PIR circuits work, basically they all just switch live onto a commoned switch live and the light(s) will stay on until the last PIR switches off. They Shelly option would also give you an option to WiFi switch your flood on.

The last 3 posts are all technically correct, but many don't bother. All MCS approved inverters have anti islanding, in other words if the grid goes down they cannot continue to feed onto the LV network and potentially kill someone working on a line. Yes they want to keep tabs, but under 16A they don't care, if the argument is so they can keep tabs, then we would need to submit a cooking schedule so they could work out when we are all importing 16A. They know we have PV generation, they know to expect a slight reduction in energy demand on a sunny day where PV is prevalent, but we are talking 16A or less here. You can always install it and just fill out the form, many MCS accredited installers have not been sending in the forms for <16A systems and it has become fairly well known that there are systems on the grid not registered. If you do want to, install it all, the submit a G98 and put it in as self install - the ENA form doesn't mention MCS accredited.

No.

I agree with that, I only did it because it was still fixed to the brick columns and I simply bulldozed the garage into our pit! In fairness there was not a lot and it is so far down I actually don't think it will get a chance to rot as I backed filled it with clay first and mushed it down with water before I chucked in the rubble for a soakaway. It will be like that Egyptian Pharaoh's boat they found that was still intact because it was buried so deep it was essentially preserved!

No, put rubble, bricks, sand, stone etc. in it, site scrapings, whatever, build it up, job done. My back garden had a huge hole dug about 12' deep and 10' wide/long and we put most of our old garage in it, timber, brick, render, then all the site scrapings and nonsense. Each layer was tamped in with the excavator and run over and hosed too at various points to help compact it all, 4 years on there has maybe 1-2" max drop in the lawn at that point which I build up with sharp sand and top soil. My attitude is just don't put any plastics or glass or painted things etc. in it as my feeling is it will breakdown and enter the groundwater over time.

But inert crap, rubble and stuff! Not stuff that will contaminate the soil.

It is expensive, but lung diseases hurt more. Also look up the Sundstrom ones. I think you can also get good deals on the 3M masks on eBay. I have that 3M mask like that and a full face 3M mask which I got on ebay for about £50 - they were £120 elsewhere.

It should be backfilled yes.

+2

Sums it up really. During our renovations I carefully sealed up our 60's house, I say carefully because you must ensure ventilation remains to stop Interstitial condensation. By the time I did the extension and pretty much finished it I had created a reasonable level of air-tightness in the living space, the net result was able to be proven through the use of the cooker hood fan to create a negative pressure in the kitchen and then see what sort of airflow there was through the ground floor. I went around and found all the air leaks coming in past rad pipes and things, made note, then filled them all with the relevant sealant. Very very easy house to warm.

It could, but I think with delineation pins it would be fine. Cost is one thing, but I am stubborn and do things like that...

You beat me to it. I second this.

That gap is not good, it will let things in, they should have used a vent strip or closed it in a bit more, but I am also questioning that monstrosity of a joint detail! Clearly they have not heard of a "bottle" or "bonding gutter".

You could, I would cost up the options though, by the time you put in suitable conduit, conduit glands & saddles you may find that ordering a length of 2 or 3 core SWA is about the same price and less hassle for the installing electrician as they just need to run in a cable, clip it and terminate it. 2.5mm SWA is not that expensive, you will get some saddles for 20p each and 2 glands for £5. Alternatively, mount the isolator on the house and bring the cable in the back (properly sealed with a grommet) and then run a piece of SWA from the isolator to the ASHP assuming it is indeed close enough.

That does sound very expensive, I had SPEN do a 3 phase cable diversion on one of my projects last week and including the cable (12m) and 4m of trench, putting in joint boxes & a new cable head it was £2200. They also beautifully reinstated the slabs at the front of the building.

I do detect the sarcasm but it is the sort of thing I would do.

Does he work for the council? Put up your own fence on your side?

For emulsion you would want a stacked solution, I spray paint a lot, cellulose, 2K, synthetics, waterborne & emulsion and use different "stacks" depending on what I need. The emulsion has the benefit that it should be low on fumes, but a sore throat will follow after painting emulsion without correct masks. I use a 3M mask with an FFP3 filter which is for dust, most of the spray painting fall out is actually considered dust, so first protection is the dust, then you want a a ABE1 filter, which is organic and inorganic vapour (emulsion, I have found sometimes is made with organic pigment and sometimes inorganic). The filters I use are 3M 6057 filters, and the top FFP3's click in on top of them. The 6057's are available from Screwfix and are reusable.

If you end up needing to pay someone, and you chose to DIY it, I would be tempted just to mix up some concrete and bulk fill the back of the kerbing. Would just be material cost, and time, if you have any spare. If it was me and the installation generally looks smart, and I was going to need to DIY it, I would dig out the back, chip down to the same line as the bottom of the kerb, clean it all so adhesion is good, I would even probably PVA the back of the kerbs (total overkill but that is me) then tip in bulk concrete then haunch it neatly with a trowel. That would lock it into place and the PVA would help get a really good bond between the concrete and the kerb to essentially "glue" it into place. Mortars and concrete have no shear strength, however, in practice I have seen plenty of blocks and bricks and other masonry products which have been bonded together with mortar or concrete so strong that the masonry product breaks before the bond. So it is possible to lock something in place albeit not the "right" way. Make the concrete with a bit extra cement and not too dry, the extra cement and water will make a nice paste which will make contact with the kerb and make a good bond.

A 12m run of 2.5mm² Twin & Earth or SWA on a 16A breaker will be well within spec. No need to provide a 2.5mm earth. If you use a 2.5mm² T&E the CPC will be 1.5mm² - this is fine, if you use SWA you could use 2 core and the armour or 3 core and a core for earth and armour. Assuming this unit is outdoor, I would use SWA.

You know something, that might just be what I want... thanks

I don't mind, we will all learn! I just want to have all the stuff in stock so I can go in all guns blazing some Saturday and get it done pronto. To clarify my kerb requirement, I don't want a kerb as in step as such, what I want to create is a little raised bit - I think 50mm would work but that is more a trip hazard, so I think I must go 75mm to make it a big enough step not to be a trip hazard, I also want the raised space to create a services zone below, and I am slightly afraid of level showers in case of floods, I feel this will also enable me to create a floodzone that could take 20-30 litres in the event of a drainage issue. Maybe I am just creating a potential disaster but I think plenty of people have walk-in showers on the first floor.

There will be an element of the builders adding an insurance company mark-up and then just rip-off London prices. The prices are high, but what portion of that is for the insurance company to pay? I would first find out what the insurance elements are and then speak to the insurer and see if they spit out their coffee. Maybe they will think that is fine, but they are used to being ripped off. Car repair shop I know, £150 a panel for paint, £250 a panel for repair and paint. If through an insurance company it is £4000 a side for paint and they will "only do a single side to get a good blend" more for crash damage. The chap who does the work will paint in a panel and you cannot see the difference as he uses the in house paint mix system and even ages paint etc. to suit. The whole side re-spray and "blend" thing is just a made up industry thing to rip off insurers. Maybe on a small ding blow-in but not a full panel of paint. Anyway, I digress, but you get the point.

Some people! I am with you.

You might get away without lifting the edging blocks, the main vehicular load when struck is trying to push them back, if they are dampened first and the concrete is not too dry, then a good bond should form and key it all in, in which case it should be OK for low level impact on a private residential drive. In an ideal world though, it would be haunched both sides, albeit the front face less/lower.