JohnMo

The temp at the top of the tank will be closer to the temperature your heat pump is set at the bottom at closer to cold. Where the thermostat is you can assume the contents at and above the thermostat level will at or above the thermostat temperature. So if you are delivering heat from the heat pump at 55 and your thermostat is set at 45, at 1/3 up will be at 45 and top close to 55

What temperature does your tank get to in 45 mins? If hitting the thermostat , I would be tempted to leave the timer as is and reduce set temperature of the thermostat. Once the tank is up to temp, the heat pump will stop adding to the the tank. You shower and wash up at about 37 deg, so you are always watering down the hot water. The lower you can get the temp, the lower the heating cost and the lower the losses. Just a matter of adjust and use for a couple days, once things aren't hot enough add a bit more back on.

I would look to increase the floor insulation to 200mm of PIR. Use 2 layers of say 100mm each with staggered joints at the different layers. This should get a U value around 0.1. Almost half your floor heat loss, for very little outlay Same with the roof increase to 200mm

Cabin filters there's a good idea - will have to do some research

Didn't have water most the time, so told the contractors that needed water they had to provide a tote tank.

I just had a double socket on off the meter. Everyone managed just fine. Mostly battery chargers and a big chop saw once or twice.

Unless you go for "rate of change' humidity sensor I would stick with manual switches at each wet room. We have managed for 2 months without kitchen extractor. But resisted frying. Put filters on each extract point, to keep ducts clean. We didn't fit cold weather pre heater's we have g4 filters, but would have been better going f7. We also installed a combined directional inlet outlet on the outside wall as other stuff got in the way of pipe runs.

Good point

We have just moved in to our new build, with solar, and it produces no real power at this time of the year, will be great in summer. Assume you have calculated your heat demand, it should be much lower than either boiler is capable of, so we are only really looking at recovery time for the cylinder. Bigger will give you better recovery time, but if outside the modulation range of boiler the central heating demand will cause the boiler to go into short cycling, so then you get into having a buffer. So look at the specs of the boilers on offer to make sure you can safely run the heating on the days like now (7 or 8 degs) not worst case design days. Or do what I did, indirect combination thermal store, combi boiler central heating connected to coil only, heating tank to 40 degs (boiler central heating temp set at 60 deg and has a return temp up to 55 deg, so always just condensing). Domestic Cold water goes through DHW coil on it way to combi via mixer valve (set at 55 deg) to give combi preheated water to improve DHW performance. UFH connected to thermal store via a 2 way valve operated by thermostat. In summer TS heated by immersion from excess PV. Boiler needs to be able to take preheated water (Atag do, plus others, lots do not). Water hotter than set point of DHW, passes through boiler without boiler starting up.

I got my quote from Scotframe, it does state fully what's included, you can pick and mix what you want to include, internal doors etc you can choose from a good selection or choose from elsewhere and have that cost deducted. Any once I picked myself up at seeing the cost, I went with Durisol and did a self managed and mostly self build.

I used energysavingtrust.org.uk - PV calculations for the below. 3kw array. My postcode, roof angle and direction etc Yield forecast 2331kWh/y. We pay 17.02p per kWh If we use full yield savings are £396/y System cost £2300, including immersion diverter, additional electrical installation costs around £500. Rest is self installed. Plan to self consume and will not get paid for any export. If I only manage to consume 90%, yield would be equal to £356 £2800/£356 = 7.8 years

Smoke and heat have to interlink (either cable or radio link), can only be mains or none removable battery powered. CO2 does not need to interlink with smoke or heat. Only heat alarms are allowed in a kitchen. We also have Aico.

Any worries the kids jump in and it's too hot?

Resurrection of old thread Is anyone using - are they any good in real life?

With mvhr, you don't a have separate extractor through the wall, as this would depressurise the building and also defeat the balance inlet/extract with heat recovery. But you would/could have a cooker hood on internal recycle to clean up grease etc, otherwise it ends up in your ventilation ducts. Do you need both PIV and MEV?

Look up Canetis Superflow. It basically either a 25 or 50 litre vessel that sits upstream of a combi boiler, to improve the performance of a combi boiler. These vessels can sit below the boiler or be wall mounted. Image shows the large and small versions

I'm on 4g, and have three on my phone, which is rubbish in the house, I asked the different contractors that came to site, which mobile provider they were using and if they wouldn't mind doing a speed test. Vodafone, gives me between 16 and 36Mb/s, where three gave about 1 at best. At my old address it was the other way around, three great, Vodafone not so good.

We had a air test prior to the plasterboard going on and had leak all around the building at the dpc. Used blower proof liquid to seal. May be worth a quick air test before you start fixing the skirtings etc, think it cost about £100.

You can do this with double glazing, but you frame has to be very good. Double glazed panel krypton filled, will give, approx 1.2 for the centre pane. But you may struggle to get double glazed bi folds that achieve this. Any triple glazed should be able to beat this though.

From the weight and area of glass, it should be two sheets of 10mm

I used double sided tape for my offcuts. As the main strips had this when I bough it

I just bought a salus quantum, very slim on the wall, rechargeable and around £70

I like to think of it simply. Coil for heat pump, coil for solar thermal. Set ASHP Stat as suggested at 48/50 degs. Base case, ASHP heat tank to 48 deg. If solar heat availability is there, have a separate thermostat, to allow tank to max heat the cylinder will allow. You can achieve this with an unvented cylinder or thermal store. Next question is do you need a buffer for your heating? If so, this could use the volume of water within the thermal store as part of the heating circuit. A two port valve and pump controlled by your central heating thermostat. Your heat pump only has to heat water in tank, no sanitiser program required, as DHW flows through a coil in the thermal store. Why do you need to monitor water temp at different heights?

My niece had an electric combi, and binned it very quickly due to the huge running cost. Electricity costs around 3 times the cost of gas/ lpg per kWh. Without a cylinder you options are limited

If you want a storage heater look on gumtree, people give them away, not new but... Maybe worth a punt