JohnMo

What does the supplier say in their instructions to use?

Basics are. Remove rust, or remove all loose and convert to something else, with rust converter. Hamerite isn't that good any more as mentioned. A galvanizing spray with give the metal a sacrificial costing which will deplete prior to rust coming back. But sprays go on very thin. A brush zinc paint like the architect mentioned with give a longer lasting protection. If you are ok with a dull silver, something like a Rustoleom galvanizing spray, several good coats. If you want a different colour follow the painting instructions on the tin. You need a coating that is around 99% zinc. Or a zinc phosphate based epoxy primer as it bonds well, expensive but good.

Strange choices as both very different in look. Which would suit the house best? Imprint concrete is not Suds compliant, so more water run off, resin bound is Suds compliant as is lock block as they are both water open and let's water naturally soak away rather than run off. Another alternative I have found is gravel mixed with lime, the lime goes hard over time and holds the gravel in place, they use in car show areas around us and been told it has next to no maintenance requirements.

Think so. I have used Coanda effect nozzles in all bedrooms, hall and living room, made duct runs real simple. No drafts as the air is at room temperature by the time it descends. I used the Zehnder Supply air valve, coanda effect, ⌀ 90mm SKU: 990326254. Also used ComfoTube ⌀ 90mm, adjustable airflow regulator, to adjust flow rate. About £9 each for the valve, and regulators about £25 each.

Could you use coanda effect supply nozzles to throw the air from the mezzanine area to the other side of the cathedral area (will Google roof line for about 4 to 6m, this would need no ducts in the cathedral roof. The two dots in the roof slope about 20% up in the photo are mine.

Not sure it works anything like a conventional fridge/heat pump compressor. From their website Acoustic waves are generated and amplified automatically in our machines by temperature gradient or by electricity. They do a compression-expansion work in the manner of a piston in a thermal engine or in a compression machine used to produce heat or cold, which makes it possible to carry out ultra-efficient heat pumping, without moving parts and without greenhouse gas refrigerant.

Think if does do the install now (or after building completion) and anything went wrong you are well stuffed. As you have been explicitly told, not to do it yourselves.

That's all pretty rubbish from the supplier and manufacturer.

I've toyed with idea of PV directly connected to immersion. Can be done quite cheaply, then it's completely off grid. Certainly would then start to displace electric or gas heating used in the winter. The other alternative is MyPV, MPPT DC immersion. There's also an American guy on YouTube doing lots of solar stuff he has a link to a spreadsheet where you input your panel configuration and it tells which AC Voltage Wattage immersion to use to get best performance in DC.

I think it all changed when it was deemed a non competitive strategy, same time as the mains gas market opened up.

Why not passivhaus spec manufactured in the UK instead of imported? Keep your money in the UK instead of sending overseas. A passivhaus window only needs to an average of Uw of 0.8. So any good 3G will meet this. My windows were manufactured a couple of miles down the road. U values fixed windows 0.74, opening 0.84. Supplier had full responsibility from measuring to final install. Roof windows are by Roof Maker Passivhaus certified with a u value of 1.0.

New build the only way to go, you don't have to pay for the slates underneath.

Have found a supplier in the UK or are you importing?

She is always right... Been there, done that, got the t shirt

Bit dangerous quoting wikipedia. So much duff information on there. Agree it's so good we have have all these well educated (in wrong subject matter) running the show.

Not sure the maths is correct for model 1b The model may be correct if the circulation water went in the system hot and was returned cold, but if well insulated the losses during circulation would be quite small. For example I am circulating via a combi, so I can see when the boiler fires. On start of the circulation pump the boiler fires, within a few seconds it turns off. I am running a 30m loop for a couple of hours morning and evening, based on the maths I would be using around 300kWh a day. I am not.

Solar PV, but to reduce heating demand through winter, you may need thermal and/or a load of PV with a DC immersion(s), through a thermal store

We have similar. But you may need a post filter, we have a 10 and 5 micron unit. And UV just in case.

I would put ethernet to each room, the ethernet outlet can be combined into a TV socket. That way there is little or reduction in internet speed across the house. Then you have a good place to hook up a WiFi access point, one on each floor would give coverage for a good cost. If you have a blind spot easy to add. TVs are better connected to ethernet. If you don't understand there we site, why bother giving them money.

There is nothing difficult or complicated with heat pump technology, it been in air conditioning and fridges for decades. They may cost more than a cheap combi, but they shouldn't cost any more than a a half decent system boiler and cylinder. That's the issue, an open market would/should sort.

Agree let the market set the price, instead of incentives. Government funding leads to people people paying way too much for heat pumps etc, the only people winning are companies that take advantage of the schemes. The tax payer gets screwed every time.

Calor web site says they are?

Wow people have far to much time on their hands...and money I must being boring with a £2 manual switch, not sure how I cope.

Why not go hybrid and have both ASHP and LPG

but the actuator is supposed to modulate the flow to maintain the 7 deg differential between flow and return