JohnMo

Have a look at coanda effect nozzles, these will make the air travel from one side of the room to the other, so routing pipes is easier. These are what I used these for our supply nozzles. Zehnder 990326254

Possibly no.2. But follow route for no.1 and tee off, rather than going under the house.

Have you thought about either, dMEV or dMVHR

Another plus from me for woodcrete. I used Durisol. All cuts done with reciprocating saw, but an alligator saw is better. Bracing with osb on internal and external corners and over opening. Get a structural engineer used to the material, otherwise they stuff way to much steel rebar into it. Airtightness with an internal parge coat, battens and plasterboard or wet plaster.

This what Daikin say. "Our Daikin Altherma hybrid heat pump combines renewable air-to-water heat pump technology with a gas condensing boiler, to ensure the highest efficiency. Its smart programming helps to save up to 35% more energy than a traditional condensing boiler by automatically determining the most economically and energy efficient combination based on energy prices, outdoor temperatures and indoor heat capacity." The other thing is, it can operate with a cylinder or without. Some an ASHP only cannot do.

I looked at my drawings and counted, then looked at lengths I had to span. Did some adding up. 15 min job.

This is what I picked from reading a user manual for hybrid HP and gas boiler. Hybrids are normal controlled on a cost to heat, DHW and CH basis. You import to the control software, the cost of electricity, gas/oil or whatever the alternative fuel you are using. The software, looks at expected cop from the heat pump, which is the default heat supplier. If it is likely to cost you more running the heat pump than the boiler, the boiler will be started.

Which bit is kitchen?

Every time I've used self leveling, you have spread to the desired level and taper the edges smooth into the high spots. The self leveling bit, is any tooling marks smooth themselves out.

You might hope for that, but you will never know.

If your extract is performing poorly, either it's a rubbish extractor, or it is positioned too high on the wall. Our new kitchen was installed a couple of months ago, our extractor performed rubbish. Read the instructions and it said to install 450 to 500mm above hob. Measured and it was at 750mm. Rang company and they stated that the dimensions they alway use. Got them back to install as per instructions and it works great. Recirculation or extract outside your call.

Heard of them, if you look on eBay there is one going quite cheap , not sure if it matches what you need.

We did 3 coats, 2 costs prior to anything being installed. A finish coat after

I would go for a decent natural slate. We used Cupa Heavy 3 slates. Looks good and the roofer likes to use them. Not that expensive we purchased just prior to brexit, so not sure if prices have changed. But if you are matching existing slates, talk to a Slater.

We left enough DPC sticking out, so we could have DPC between the slips that are above and below it.

Best to get a colour card, from your paint supplier. Select a colour you like and get a sample made up. Try the sample in the area or areas where you intend to paint. Let it dry before you say yes or no. Colours change in different light, what may look great to me in NE Scotland, may look rubbish with your light. Good luck

Not sure if you have purchased the controllers/ thermostats, but you will find the reaction time of the slab very slow and once heated, slowly gives heat to the house. We have around 100mm screed and ended up taking all the smart stuff out, as it couldn't react in the right time frame. Now have a thermostat in the hall that can call for heat, and one in each bedroom, they cannot call for heat, but can stop it earlier than the rest of the house, so the bedrooms are cooler. Boiler kicks in for a few hours once a day to charge the slab, even though same heat is set on the thermostat all the time (24/7). Thermostat is set to 19 degs at moment, will drop to 18.5, as slab is in the heating phase and overshoot to 19.5, if the sun comes out, the evening temps can be around 20 to 21 degs.

How thick is you screed and how well insulated are you?

Semi rigid 90mm via plenum box. Ease of DIY install, but also very quiet in use and no cross talk. Most of mine is also going through Posi rafters and there was not enough room to install rigid. If doing rigid, use metal pipes only, most plastic bends the radius this too tight and you get a large pressure drop. Blumberg may be the exception, as their bends have a larger radius. You will also need an attenuator at each outlet to stop cross talk.

Stick in an electric element and have its own thermostatic controller. Something like a Termo One. Then you don't need to fire up the central heating in the summer to just heat/dry some towels.

Just moved out of our previous house, built in 1830, still has most of the original timber framed windows. If they are painted correctly no issues. The replacement windows we installed in 2012, are still good, no need for paint for quite a few years yet. If the windows are factory finished and are good quality windows, see no reason why you should not see 20 years, without the need to repaint. And if fashion's change you can change the colour easily.

Any reasons? Assume you don't have UFH

You can run all your pipes in plastic barrier pipe, except within 1m of the boiler or hot water cylinder. You could also leave the gas boiler there, as a fall back if you have maintenance ongoing on the ASHP, or in very cold weather when the cop is less than ideal. A hybrid system.

We went 3G wood. Eucalyptus, factory finished. Main reason they are made about 3 miles from the house. They came measured, manufactured and installed. So basically any issues were down to them to sort out. Happy with the results. But wasn't cheap.

You can get wood coloured marker pens for that specific type of job. Or use you kids felt tips and then wax