Dave Jones

you need to ask whoever designed the cut roof (SE?) as tinkering with his design (if BCO spots it) will be an issue. why are you struggling for head height ? a standard/low ceiling is 2.4m a normal door 1.98m. You are lower than this ? There are some workarounds but curious why the design has failed.

new build pumice lined chimney stacks are insulated with vermiculite so do not require ventilation. Same with using the tin liners, they are insulated.

hire a 6 or 9 ton dumper for the day to move the concrete. they are peanuts a week from GAP nothing stopping you putting in a temporary track either.

a cold roof SHOULD have lots of air flow this is correct. As mentioned just seal the cable hole with 330.

my guess would be the crack is evidence of no lintel. hard to tell but looks like a solid wall from the width, the added weight on the trusses when it was converted as loaded up that wall and it wasnt designed for it. Get a RICS survey so you (mortgage company) have someone to sue if it all goes pete tong in a years time.

do you have the windows, doors and 1st floor ceilings in ? It's going to leak like a sieve around those joists....

put an elbow on it then run it through the wall. external soil pipes ......

drop one of these in https://www.bpcventilation.com/bsk-zephyr-single-room-heat-recovery-unit

mount it higher up on the wall.

its surprising just how much is needed to drain a single slab, porcelain especially the textured ones love to hang on to water. You would be better of slotting it with a grinder to drain it either side.

as your going for the industrial look anyway id just use a large metal factory type plenum and make feature of it.

neither, megastick.

estimators.com dont play around with massive costs, do it properly.

heres a tip for materials. You need to find a local building firm, the type that has 3 or 4 blokes on the books. Have a drive round the area, they build single houses, decent size extensions that sort of thing. Approach them and explain you are self building and are being bent over for materials. Ask if you can use their rates at jewsons/trav etc and you will pay them cash of half the saving. Get a price from the merchant for the usual 20 items timber, boards, cement, insulation etc and see what they paying. work out what you need and give them an up front couple hundred quid and couple cases beer. You will be buying some good faith, they may even answer the phone and recommend trades to you.

as long as you have a proper VCL under the kingspan and sealed down onto the internal wall it will be fine.

ive got the milwaukee cordless stamper, very nice and light.

not allways, if you have windows in that elevation for example you can get away with it. They look terrible so avoid.

looks like a cold roof. dont block the airflow by insulating tight to the underside of the felt.

in a nutshell, cold roof doesnt need a VCL a warm roof does.

kind of my point duh.

running cost isn't relevant. What's the running cost of a £20k kitchen compared to a £40k kitchen ?

timber frames are utterly pointless unless you plan to have the whole build finished in 12 weeks. Zero point paying over the odds to get watertight in a week if it then takes another 9 months to finish before you move in.

As long as the truss supplier can make the hips as well. The problem is the height above plate being soo high that you would need 800 deep timber to hand cut it! I do like them for the reason you mention, makes insulating and ventilating over wall plate a lot easier.

have a gander, refuge rooms, protected areas etc. flats need a lot. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/1128493/Fire_Safety_in_Purpose_Built_Blocks_of_Flats_Guide-update.pdf

stud/timber.