Dave Jones

what we did on our 7m bifold, we hard a normal 170mm cill on it which provides the drip detail for the doors then slabbed over the cill with porcelain, we put pea gravel under the cill to support and provide drainage. No need for any linear drains and nothing to worry about with splashing etc. Had no problems with it at all, the frame free drains as it should.

and in the meantime another 20000000 plants are growing. google carbon neutral.

cosmetic. would have been built on no footings at all.

you can get fire hinges for plastic windows that make the opening larger. https://www.handlesandhinges.co.uk/fire-escape-easy-clean-window-hinges/

pocket door better, I also really like the pivot and slide kits from hafele, a little bit of fake stud to hide it. https://www.hafele.co.uk/en/product/complete-set-for-pivot-sliding-cabinet-doors-soft-closing-hawa-concepta/P-01499149/#SearchParameter=&@QueryTerm=pivotslidingdoors&Category=fn0KAOsFhMoAAAFlTOecc.x0&@P.FF.followSearch=8593&PageNumber=1&OriginalPageSize=12&PageSize=12&Position=1&OrigPos=6&ProductListSize=19&PDP=true

this was built near to us, lot of floor area and similar approach lane

its second fix where the waste piles up. Masses of cardboard, styrophome, plastic etc. All of which is needed to protect the material in transit. During build there is relatively little waste upto 1st fix on a traditional build. Just plastic wrap, cement bags, straps, and pallets etc. 1 skip was plenty on our 4 bed. second fix easy fill a couple skips if you dont have a machine on site to squash it down. Burned any waste wood as its carbon neutral.

a topographical survey would be needed to produce an accurate plan, locate trees, drains, adjoining ridge heights etc. This automatically gives height information.

no. The SE is on site. Hole is dug, 10 mins. SE peers in mulls the crap maybe puts sample in jar and leaves. Digger is collected. You can hire a 5 ton digger for £300 a week from GAP.

what you need is a vertical DPC. This is a cavity tray that allows you to 'move' the dpc higher up the wall. This allows a fully level threshold (with a suitable cill) and not having to worry about the normal 150mm limit. Same is used where you are building against sloping ground and need to protect the 'upslope' wall. Unless of course its a front door and they are automatically immune to the 150mm rule !! We have done this for every build as it costs peanuts and gives total flexibility. The example here moves DPC 225mm higher than normal.

never pay a percentage for anything. Fixed fee irrespective.

yep another reason to avoid like the plague.

this guy is down south, his work is amazing.

good idea, its also a massive cold bridge running rainwater internally. its a small flat roof so less than a days work i would have thought.

you dont need concrete and screed. hardcore - insulation - screed.

cost wise 200mm celotex is £650 more expensive than 300mm eps, but your right if you have muckaways it may be worth paying the extra for celotex.

really lol! In that case today I'm identifying as a non-belittling person. respect it !

screed yes, concrete no. Different products. Screed everytime.

how did i belittle you ? Just pointing out your numbers don't stack up is all. Many pay the extra cost of TF not only for speed but its a turnkey to get watertight which is fine. Cheapest it is not.

yes of course if your finishing in under 12 weeks the extra cost may be worth it. But tf is at least double the cost of brick and block so your table isnt right.

it does look a very interesting product. No mess once its finished except on horizontal surfaces where it will settle out by the looks. Very cool watching the ACH number drop like a stone as it was squirted in.

id cut it per the photo then clay to plastic collar and whatever bend you need, there will be some give in the collar as well so easy enough to get it where you want. then haunch it in place with lean mix.

the issue you will have concrete as a finished floor WILL NOT be flat and level no matter how much you try. Screed will. So by using concrete you are guaranteeing you will have to then level the floor after.

there is no way timber frame is cheaper than brick and block.

think again. get the gutter external and use edpm if you want it to last. Seen loads of horror stories with fibreglass, moves, cracks, leaks etc. None of that hassle with edpm. If your making a warm room make sure you seal it from the room below to stop it sweating.