Dave Jones

from our QS, these are the rates local to use they used. Not far off i don't think, i never pay day rate though so it doesn't really matter. The QS states what the cost should be so easy to see if your being had over.

yep anything other than brick and block is crazy expensive due to limited and dodgy companies who provide them. Avoid like the plague.

id do both, approach friendly and state concerns, the dangers etc and mention you have spoken to your insurers and you need to get things down in writing in case the worse happens. His insurer could be liable if anyone is injured so could be worth having a cheap solicitor letter to them ?

increase the pitch, will look miles better than a bunch of scaffold holding panels on.

ask them, its yet another drawback of this expensive build type... would only be a days work to get it done, very simple. could even get some more pozi's to hang.

there will be a local man with a digger, 3-400 a day with machine. They will be 5x faster and neater than trying to do it yourself. They will also have contacts for muckaways etc

can you use hangers and 6x 2 ? if its a shed build could use 4x2 studs to support the nogs taking the hangers.

why only 100mm ?

get one of these to clean up the cut pipe. https://www.screwfix.com/p/metex-10mm-shank-drill-mounted-pvc-pipe-chamfer-tool-110mm/876pv

our brickie does it other way - mortar on top, doesn't really matter as long as its their right ?

first joint above damp to work block.

get the in roof modules soo much cleaner.

his posts have nothing to support them no wonder they failing. Letter to owner, copied to council. kids play in garden could be severely injured ot killed should that lot collapse on them. See what response you get and make a decision at that point, could be worth asking for their insurers to claim against. either way that is not a 5 minute job to correct that properly. gabion baskets would probably be cheapest.

he cant thats the outside skin. copy this from compacfoam.

you need to find out. You also need to determine the U values of your walls, floors and ceiling. It may be you have zero floor insulation for example. Once you have the results of your air test and know your insulation levels you will know exactly where the pound notes are disappearing.

what was the air test result for the house ? your heat is disappearing somewhere, either insulation, cold bridging or poor air tightness. combo of all 3 ?

totally out of character for the area.

im a fan of the hammer fixings, use them to fix stud to blockwork and they hold very firm. https://www.toolstation.com/fischer-hammer-in-fixing/p65723

get it properly QS'd by someone like estimators.com and then add 20% contingency. It's what the banks would use if they were funding the build so not far off. An cheap cost would be £2500 m2 / £375k nicer finish/difficult build £3500 m2 £525k

150 high 100 wide with 285ish bottom plate welded on.

house full of mould if you have no airflow.

thats a strange one all right.

thanks, will get a price in from a local installer. The U values are very good especially the doors.

mind sharing the supplier ?

was that trip[le glazed <1 u value ?