Gone West

No, we didn't use self compacting concrete, but I wish we had. It would have been much easier with Isoquick system.

@BenOram In case you are still around, we have now had a fault on our Genvex Combi 185LS and we found a company called Iso Energy who came out and diagnosed the fault which was a broken solenoid on the EASHP water heating circuit. They had never worked on a Genvex before but had worked on the Nilan which is similar. I can recommend Iso Energy and their engineer, Nick, who was very competent.

That sounds good. Our Internorm front door was £5500 and that was nine years ago without any fancy gubbins.

It's not difficult, just time consuming and fiddly.

I did all the circuit design, then first and second fix myself. A friend of one of my daughters checked each stage for me and did the final testing and sign off. Total cost around £300.

Hi Kaye, welcome to the forum and good luck with your project. Neat walling by the way.

We were going to use ADM before deciding to do it ourselves. They were very helpful. https://admsystems.co.uk/heat-recovery-ventilation/

We didn't have any problems using metal web joists and as you say they are much easier for first fix.

It just means how much they bend in the centre for a given weight on them. It's not that straightforward though as it depends on whether there are strongbacks fitted to the metal web joists and whether the cord/flange sizes are the same. A little light reading on the subject. https://www.steico.com/fileadmin/steico/content/pdf/Marketing/UK/Tec_Guide_Construction/STEICO_tec_guide_construction_en_i.pdf https://www.wolfsystem.co.uk/media/78349/easi-joist_tech_guide_4th_edition_nov_2010.pdf

This is mine in a well lit room without flash. Mine are a few years old now.

I have one of these fused spur timers on the wall outside the bathroom doors. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMFST77.html I have these on the electric towel rails. https://www.geyser.co.uk/terma-moa-chrome-thermostatic-element-for-radiator-or-towel-rail You can hide the wiring with these. https://www.geyser.co.uk/geyser-chrome-cable-masking-cover-for-sim-elements

This is good for small areas. https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/unibond-whiteteq-expanding-foam-500ml/p/0457575

I have a 350mm portal timber I-beam framed house where the standard spacing is 600mm centres but because it's a portal frame this does vary. Our frame is insulated with Icynene spray foam and with external Rockwool insulation gives a U vaue of 0.095W/m2K. You have to consider whether decrement delay is of much interest which will depend on where you live. The climate and micro-climate of your site will determine the importance of decrement delay to your build as will the rainscreen materials and wall construction. We live on a relatively open site near the sea and as a result there is at least a breeze every afternoon and there is very little surface heat build up.

A friend of ours designed their own house and had it built by Touchwood Homes and were very happy with it. It was built using timber I-beams and glulams. We designed our own house and worked with a timber frame company and SE to build a portal timber I-beam framed house. Although as @Patrick has said it is more challenging to design than a standard timber frame but it is easier to design out thermal bridges.

Hi Joe, welcome to the forum. Feel free to reduce your load of questions.

I would fit one where you have indicated.

Think I'll have to disagree with you on that one.

I have a 110mm AAV on top of the main waste pipe in the centre of the pipe runs and a 50mm AAV at each end of the 50mm pipe runs which join each side of the main pipe. One for the bath end and one for the ensuite shower end. It's just a bit of redundancy in case there is a problem.

1. Should be higher than highest waste although some makes work below that level. 2. I have one 110mm AAV and two 50mm AAVs. 3. Can do, I've got mine at ends on pipe runs. 4. Doesn't need to go as high as loft. I have mine behind false walls in with concealed cisterns.

The problem is, the workmanship is poor, so that in reality the B rating for newbuilds is not really of that standard, and it is the poor workmanship that needs to be addressed.

Welcome to the forum. Have you tried pushing a screwdriver into the wood to see if it is rotten? Unless it's been soaked for some time it's probably just discolouring.

Interesting mix of units. Which do you prefer working in? Although well into OAP years I now struggle with feet and inches whereas my mate converts metric to imperial before doing anything.

If we move away from standard brick and block construction towards panelised houses built in factories it would be easier to remove poor workmanship.

We have a Genvex Combi 185LS compact unit which provides MVHR, warm air heating and DHW using an EASHP. IIRC it weighs 210kg before plumbed in and over 400kg when full. It requires a base suitable to support 500kg/m2, not really suitable for a loft installation. Nilan are another company offering similar products.

We used Sovereign SX70 white woodstain in the 90s internally and externally on all the windows and doors. It was very easy to use and it never peeled or cracked. It gave a nice satin finish. They may have changed the recipe since then of course.