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About kaye

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    self build novice
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  1. It turned out a tad ugly, i did start dry stone walling the external walls but that looked pants (also the corners around the door were to tricky for me). My renderers have now promised to krend it to match the house while they are there. Fingers crossed it looks less naff then!
  2. I built a brick hut, separate from the house and garage and situated the 2 meters in there as i needed both gas and electric to the house and garage/annex and situated them centrally between on the advice of the plumber and electrician. Have attached a photo. I had a groundsworker excavate the trenches, and placed the ducting inside, i then paid the utility companies to drop their supplies through the ducting. The hut needs to be watertight and lockable and have a concrete foundation though you can buy specific cabinets to fix to walls. The Utilities will do the digging but charge more so better to do it yourself. The utility com costs were c£850 for electric (NB from a pole around 60m away in the field) and the gas cost £450. Im not sure the utility companies get out of bed for much less than 400 tbh. The energy suppliers are a bit clueless about this stuff so you need to approach the infrastructure supplier for info e.g. for me it was SP networks for the electric. Hope this helps, if you need the spec i provided to SP networks give me a shout.
  3. Thanks Dan - i do hope so. There is nothing above the membrane except the warmcell insulation (about 350mm minimum as i remember). The loft is partially boarded though, not sure if that would make any difference. lets hope it magically disappears!
  4. natural slate. and yes it was this membrane.
  5. thanks tony, we kept the loft hatches closed to help keep it snug to dry the plaster, this is a good idea
  6. Thanks Dan - they used this in our build too. Not sure if the actual roof is vented tbh, i dont think so, its not something i was aware of as required. .
  7. ah ok, this is a learning curve for me. I will ask the timber frame company on monday what they suggest on this.
  8. its all totally airtight, taped to within an inch of its life by the timber frame company, (the airtest was very good 0.5). It has warm cell insulation (installed by MBC) The loft hatches are airtight and insulated, albeit not the prohibitively expensive ones - dolle clickfix with a u value of 0.49.
  9. HI all, Wondering if your collective brains have any knowledge on condensation in a cold roof in a passive timber frame house. We have tons of insulation in the loft floor, slate roof, when we opened the loft hatches to do the second fix electrics up there this week there was a deal of condensation. Is this normal in a new build timber frame and should i be doing something to prevent it? We have only just got the electric on and plastering has only just finished but with it being airtight i am assuming moisture should not have escaped from the house into there from that. The loft space is boarded out and we were intending using it for storage (the proverbial xmas tree and assorted other junk that its difficult to part with). Appreciate any help or advice any of you have on this.
  10. We have just installed one of ours now our ceilings are plastered. The joiner said he was quite impressed with it, it's provided with the architrave for the ceiling which is neat, it was easy to fit and no hassle. They have an installation video on their website which is v helpful. I am pleased with it, for the money i think its a decent buy though we may put some more insulation over the top of it at some point when we have some time. Hope this helps anyone trying to avoid having to take out a mortgage for one of the expensive alternatives!
  11. we got Dolle ones in the end, £512 for the 2 which were much more reasonable than many of the others on offer TBH. I haven't installed them as yet but they seem pretty good. will let you know when we put them in and if there are any issues. There is a very helpful video on line on how to install and the company were decent to deal with.
  12. Olf - those are good spots, i have been getting eye watering quotes for passive standard ones - £750 each. I have checked those 2 out and they look good dont they? be interested in finding out the lead times and if anyone has used either of these. I dont want to be spending loads of money on these but on the other hand i also dont want a draughty gash (so to speak) in my passive house do I?
  13. I am looking for a couple of insulated, air tight loft hatches and ladders for my passive standard house. Its only a small area but i assume it would be stupid to get a bog standard one given the levels of insulation i have? i can see some very expensive ones around, wellhofer and jupiter e.g. Has anyone used these or have any recommendations for specific types/brands so i dont end up wasting money. Appreciate advice from anyone who has done this recently.
  14. I had Scotframe, Flemming and MBC on my shortlist. The offerings are quite different and you have to do a deal of probing to get to the bottom of it. Its not just the finish its the spec of the insulation, reliability of the company, confidence in the finished cost, inclination to fix any issues that could arise throughout the project etc. Its a bit of a minefield. I have a spreadsheet which may help if you know what are priorities for you. MBC are one of the few to guarantee the finished cost as per quote. I selected MBC for this reason and also as they provide more of the build, foundation, erection and partnered with a window company at the time (though they no longer do this). I considered it a reduced the risk for me being a first time self build. Though I was very impressed by Scotframe who were incredibly helpful throughout the evaluation. I cant confirm if this is a wise decision as yet as i am waiting for the timber frame to arrive (next Tuesday!!!) Give me a shout if you want me to mail over the spreadie.