Gone West

Wouldn't it be possible to have connected ducting for say three internal extracts and one external extract, balanced, so the internal extracts are extracting at the correct rate for the room type?

I have a natural immunity to tuberculosis from when I was a child, without feeling unwell, but I think it would be classed as a serious disease as would Weils disease as they are both potentially life threatening.

Do you know when the 10 years period starts from?

Hi, welcome to the forum. It's a great resource as you've found. Good luck with your build.

When we started our build in 2010 we had an oversailing cable and some poles moved by EDF who later morphed into UKPN. We also had an agreement that because we were building a PH we could have an internal supply. When we eventually had the cable pulled through the ducting, installed by me, UKPN honoured the agreement first set up with EDF, even though they would have preferred I had an outside box.

I have seen a rat in our garden but they tend to stay only if there is a food supply such as bird food left overnight on the ground. We have a camera watching the hedgehog box and the only thing that has gone in other than the hedgehog is a woodmouse.

We have given electrical items to Age Concern without any problems, they said they would take anything.

When we cleared our bungalow we gave a lot of the furniture to local charities that collected it. There are national charities that will collect furniture. https://emmaus.org.uk/ https://www.bhf.org.uk/shop/donating-goods/f-and-e-collection

Yes I see, in my case it's a hanging screen so doesn't touch the ground, just the shingle pushed up to the outside.

The brick slips are just a rainscreen and our DPC is behind the cavity. I can't say for sure whether Wetherby do a blue brick but they do have a large range. We have shingle around the base which just covers the bottom of the slips.

We half DIY'd it. We installed the render board (Bluclad) and mesh but I chickened out of fixing the slips and pointing as we were running out of time for getting the plinth finished and the cedar cladding fitted before the weather changed. We had a chap who was a general builder finish it for us. He said it was straightforward and he used a half round tool for finishing the mortar. We could have done it ourselves but it would have taken a lot longer.

I used the Wetherby system which uses a bagged mortar which is applied with a mortar gun. The whole system is pretty straightforward to use. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoZGlEU7apA

@pocster Well I wouldn't want to rely solely on an anti slam mechanism in the header rail with a glass door but as you say having a wooden cover piece sounds like an easy way out. My door post has a rubber T piece inset into a groove which acts as a soft stop. I'm sure with more thought they could have designed the white piece on your frame to incorporate a soft stop.

My Dad used to use fibrous Rawlplugs in the fifties, which I used to pass to him, being very helpful?

I think this is just a UK semi standard. I've bought boxes of plugs which follow that rule but some manufacturers make their own for specific uses.

Presumably the order of the words is fixed, hence fewer total words required. So someone else could be "stumpy corrupted salads"?

I use Soudal MS Clear, sticks anything. http://www.soudal.eu/soudalweb/productDetail.aspx?w=9&p=410&ID=1994

There doesn't seem any option other than to glue it.

I'm sure I saw a post recently by @AliG ? which had panels as you describe.

Normally on a concrete finish you would use bonded rather than bound.

So that white strip is non removable and therefore you can't screw through the metal and replace the white strip? Where is the door stop?

This might be of some use next time. http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/fasteners-fixings/wall-plugs

Hi, welcome to the forum. In question 7 you have two 'strongly agree' columns.

@dnb Our supplier is also Southern Water and as we were building a replacement house we already had water on site. We had a meter installed before we started work and after that we had no more contact with SW. We did take pictures of all the trench work just in case, but we've not been bothered by SW.

On the fourth picture showing the chimney? flashing shouldn't the cut by the vertical pipe be tucked under the pipe flashing? It's not been dressed at all and is appalling. It's so disappointing when so called professionals carry out work so badly. It's the reason I ended up doing so much of my build myself.