Gone West

Really, I've seen more obvious than that.

We used Isoenergy to repair our EASHP and they have an office in Tewkesbury so might cover your area. https://www.isoenergy.co.uk/

Or horizontally at the top of a wall within 150mm of the ceiling. I think this is current (pun).

Did the crack in the tile appear just after the ridge tiles were screwed down. The crack appears to line up with the join in the ridge tiles. Could you unscrew or loosen the ridge tiles as they may be holding the cracked tile a lot more firmly than they are held further down the roof.

Yes, good idea, we don't fry food either. It's if we sold up and the new owners didn't behave in the same way that there would be a problem. If the MVHR is extracting correctly then the oil droplets would condense in the ducting if not they would condense on kitchen surfaces.

I think it's a great shame that, it seems, a lot of people are 'conned' into thinking it's a straightforward process to replace a gas or oil fired boiler with an ASHP. This is only relatively easy if it's being fitted to a modern reasonably well insulated house with underfloor heating. Fitting an ASHP into an old house essentially means replacing the whole central heating system and the DHW storage system. I think the government should not be advertising ASHPs as a panacea for home owners heating requirements and government CO2 reduction targets.

Our towel rails are 150mm off the floor and the electric cable loops down from the thermostat to the wall plate. The thermostat controls the temperature of the towel rail and a timer controls when it's on.

We've got three electric towel rails which I fitted. Once connected up I turned them on with the top vent plug removed to allow the fluid to expand. Some fluid may come out of the plug hole when it's hot so best to drape an old towel around it. When it's up to temperature turn it off and refit the vent plug.

Yup. Does the towel rail already have the fluid filled.

We have a short section of Griselinia littoralis which is perfect for a low level hedge, 1m high. It's evergreen, nice shade of green, not fast growing and easily trimmed.

We dry our washing in the wet room which has an electric towel rail and a MVHR extract vent. It dries overnight.

Same here .

The only problem with that approach is that if in the future a lot of frying of food takes place the oil droplets will condense on the inside of the ductwork. Not an easy job to clean.

We have used Miele dishwashers and washing machines, both integrated and free standing, for the last twenty years, in different houses, without any problems.

Aviva insure our timber clad, timber frame house with no problems. They also insured our old timber frame bungalow.

Don't think there is any difference in the style, just the name.

Mexicano.

If you have a narrow gap under a door then the air will move faster and it is possible to have a slight draught for that reason. I think a minimum gap of 10mm is usual. The air from the supply vents will always be a degree or two cooler than the air in the room so will always feel cooler. You can fit a small post heater to overcome the heat loss if you find it uncomfortable. Setting it up correctly will probably result in reduced air flow. I put a section in my blog about commissioning my MVHR system. Some cross posting with Russell.

You're not the only one.

The amount of water needed to travel through 300mm insulation would be a lot more than caused by condensation I'd have thought.

@ToughButterCup Hi Ian, sorry to hear about the leak. I can't think of anything, other than as you've suggested a tear in the felt. Not a lot of help I know. What are the two types of insulation in the roof makeup? I would have thought a fair amount of water would need to get under the felt in order to make it through 300mm unless it's very open cell type, non absorbent insulation. I can't understand why the direction of the wind would make any difference as the overlap on the tiles should prevent water being blown up underneath. It was a wet winter last year so why no leak then? Sorry more questions than answers.

IIRC you are not required to register a borehole. We supplied our borehole details to the BGS who put it on the register.

I should think so. Although ours was an accident, it has proved to be useful for watering the garden in the summers. We have two wells just up and down the lane from us but they are only 2m to 3m deep but ours is 47m deep.

Yes that's the site where I entered the data for our borehole.

Our standard soffits are 250mm. I like the look of deep soffits and at the back of the house they're 750mm to tie in with the balcony.