Gone West

Yes. Quite often the radiator nearest the heat source will have the Lockshield Valve open a very small amount and the radiator furthest away would have the Lockshield Valve fully open. It depends on the layout of the system.

Those cheapo placcy dials are on one side Lockshield Valves and on the other Temperature Valves, which could be replaced with TRVs.. If the radiators have been balanced correctly then the Lockshield Valves should not be adjusted. They are there to balance the system so all the radiators warm up at the same time.

The problem with old thick walled houses is that they have a lot of 'thermal mass' (naughty, naughty ) and absorb a lot of heat and it takes a long time for the temperature throughout the whole area to equalise. When the heating has been on for a long time the temperatures settle down and everything will feel warm. That's why having a thermometer will give a good idea of how long it's taking to warm up. Your new extension should warm up much quicker than the original part of the house unless of course there isn't sufficient insulation in the loft.

It might be worth fitting one now with the whole of the winter in front of us. The insulation roll should be fitted snuggly between the joists and another layer laid on top, perpendicular to the joists. I always think it's worth checking what installers have done, but then I don't trust anyone.

It appears this lot do a 5.5kWe.

If you can't wait this might work. https://www.screwfix.com/p/talon-110mm-pipe-collar-white/61841

Thought that was called a CHP system.

That could be part of the problem then. Best to go up there and check.

The only consideration we had to make was window treatments with tilt and turn windows. We put in extra timber under the plasterboard in case we wanted curtain poles but ended up with blinds on most of the sashes. As was previously said this sort of thing needs to be thought about earlier especially if you want something like roller blinds concealed above the reveals. I think tilt and turn windows often pose problems.

I don't know if you've said before but have you checked how much insulation is in the loft as you said the room below is warmer.

That's got a silver coated lining, and is usually used when incorporating an underground heat exchanger. I only fitted an ordinary MVHR system so didn't need need it. £9.60/m wow, I see what you mean.

Hi, welcome to the forum. I would say it's possible if it's a straightforward design with nothing fancy and you aren't including fees, landscaping or tools in your costs. Depending on the plot position, services can be significant. Good luck.

I don't know what sort of ducting you're using but my 125mm rigid plastic was less than £2 for a 90 degree bend. I can't think of anything that I thought was a ripoff.

He's still on the staff list so I'd be surprised if he doesn't look in on us occasionally.

If this is of any help we have one of these in several of our rooms. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383680821544

Ours are called Magic Gliders and we even used them for sliding our 210kg Genvex Combi into position. The nearest thing I could find now was:- https://www.magiglideuk.co.uk/

We've had some teflon sliders for around 25 years which we've used many many times for moving anything heavy. A bit like these:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273232292342

My stud walls upstairs are 89 x 38mm CLS. Only 3mm, would it make that much difference.

I'm pretty sure you can get stuff with a skin on which I guess would be airtight. Not sure about the open sort, I know Compriband is airtight if it's within it's expansion range and it looks similar.

I would try a temporary solution first rather than gunging up the gap and then not being able to remove it. I would use a round EPDM foam strip that will squash into an uneven gap and then try the hose on it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223789673562

Ours stays the same 24/7 on level 2. The only time the supply fans increase is if the built in EASHP pushes out warm air when it goes to 100% for a few seconds and then modulates down to whatever flow is required. Level 4 is boost which is 100%, we don't change the setting for overnight. Level 1 is for unoccupied and level 3 is a party setting both of which we have never used.

Our fan settings are 30% supply and 45% extract for normal use. I've also got a large difference in valve openings but that is because of the difference in room volumes, but everything balanced out ok eventually.

Around here 'running sand' is another phrase for quicksand. We have it 2.5m down and it's a problem for soakaways if too near the surface.

We used Grass Block which we had bought for our driveway turning circle. It stood up to a crane and many many lorry deliveries before we took it apart and used it for the driveway.

We put in a single row of mixed blackthorn and hawthorn bare rooted 60cm tall in winter 2015/16. They can just about be seen behind the rabbit fence in the first picture. Five years later, second picture, they have grown a bit. They are kept at 1m high as they are on the road edge.