Gone West

No just the opposite. You are trying to find out the overall cause. It could be caused by length of time of occupation, airtightness or many other things but without knowing the level of humidity in each room and how they are being used and are constructed it's just finger in the air guessing. Without knowing the measured level of humidity it's very difficult to say. The human body is very bad at determining temperature and humidity. Putting your hand in hot water or cold water can feel the same. Sitting in front of a stove will feel different to sitting in another room at the same temperature. Some people find it uncomfortable with low humidity and others with high humidity. You need to measure what you find comfortable in terms of temperature and humidity. If you find that you are more comfortable with lower humidity then you will need to install some form of ventilation in the rooms that need it, but without knowing the levels you've got nothing to work with.

The only way to know for sure is to know what the humidity is at any particular time in both rooms. If the humidity is the same but there is more condensation in one room than the other then where the condensation is forming is due to a cold spot and that is the reason. The only way to know the levels of humidity is to measure it in both rooms at the same time with a couple of these, which I think I may have linked to before. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Digital-LCD-Thermometer-Hygrometer-Humidity-Indoor-Temperature-Meter-UK/192691525710

I would guess that 'professionals' probably all use the same method so don't think they have to define it. The problem is that, if for example, they use net internal area it doesn't take into account the differences with say PH wall construction but they just continue in the same old way, so it's probably laziness.

Large difference in results between external and net internal measurements, and with PH type structures with possibly more complicated and costly external walls and the open plan design currently in vogue I still think the level of inaccuracy is so great that the parameters should be clearly defined.

Are you talking about external, gross internal or net internal square metreage.

Snowing here .

I surrounded the waste pipe with a block of polystyrene and cut it out when the concrete had gone off. It also allowed a bit of play for setting the shower drain at the right height.

When good design, detailing and construction are a given, then the U values of all elements and the airtightness are the most important factors to produce a comfortable, low energy house for a particular area. If the U values are too high it won't be a low energy house.

The AECB are having another airtightness webinar tomorrow. https://zoom.us/webinar/register/WN_MBqttYnORDyuaE4vyZN-NQ

Shouldn't start a sentence with a conjunction either, if being fussy.

Strange that, I asked you the same question last week. Edit, Sorry I didn't ask that question explicitly, just asked about putting moisture trap behind closed curtains.

Just a thought but have you checked that the outside inlet vent is clear. I have noticed that the fans have to work a lot harder when the vents become blocked.

http://vesma.com/tutorial/uvalue01/uvalue01.htm https://www.ubakus.com/en/r-value-calculator/?&lang=en Have a play.

It depends on the type of timber, we have cedar and it's untreated.

It doesn't have to be one or the other. We have a wildflower grassed area and we have conventional lawned areas. It is great to have wildflower areas but even these have to be tended to keep the more dominant species at bay. We had too much yarrow last year and we had to remove some.

We have had snow sitting on our bathroom roof window for three days and it's 24C in there. Triple glazing is excellent.

Spray it with glyphosate a couple of weeks before you want to seed it, rake it off and sow the seed.

Yeah it was fine. It was three years ago now and it was time limited to IIRC three months so enough time to get things sorted out.

That's for the insurance company to accept, as their risk, as they did for us.

Exactly, if you tell them all the facts, and the premium is based on those facts, they don't have a lot of wriggle room. It is only the same as a landlord renovating a property before it's occupied, but in our case, living next door, we were able to check it daily rather than weekly.

That wasn't what we were told by the insurance company as the policy was the one recommended by them for our situation.

We came across this problem when we had a 95% finished house with furniture in it. We weren't living in it so we changed the site insurance to unoccupied buildings insurance. This is used by landlords when altering lets before tenants move in. We told the insurance company it wasn't signed off and that it was checked regularly and they said it was the best policy for our needs.

Thanks, that's very interesting, especially the fact that rain would soak through the film.

Have you asked to see the calculations and what indoor and outdoor temperatures were used to do the calculations.

The plot size isn't very large so have the LPA indicated whether you can build a one, two, three or even four storey building.