Gone West

Yes my joist plan had sistered joists on both sides of the stair well.

Is that noise from the bubbling stew or from the air pump.

You're wasted on here

Several years ago when my last Twintec block softener packed up I bought a Wrekin ECO10 or 15, I can't remember which. It worked ok regenerating at night. The only problem was that if there was a power cut it lost the settings and would start regenerating in the day time if I forgot to reset the timer. It was larger than the previous Harvey, Twintec etc I have had, so I sold it and went back to a Harvey Crown when I moved into the new build.

Our house has been built with an I-beam timber portal frame and the joists were included as part of the overall cost.

Our kitchen is 5.9m with metal web joists. IIRC the joists are 250mm deep with 122mm chords and are spaced at 350mm centres. There is zero discernible deflection.

No it's the exhaust. I thought because the exhaust is more likely to have condensation in it I would want it to drain quickly. The ducting slopes down to the outside vents and I've used 45 degree bends spaced apart.

I prefer the ones that are 4 x 22.5's myself.

IIRC our outside vents are 3.5m apart so our pipework is 5m for one vent and 1.5m for the other. I used 45 degree bends to reduce restriction of air flow.

Yes we are happy, had a lot of good comments. The smaller sink is 160mm internal width and is called a half sink or N50 and the larger sink is called a three quarter sink or N75. We didn't want a full size sink as we don't do washing up etc. Schock produce a very large range of different styles and sizes.

I wouldn't say so. I set up ours starting with the level 2, which is 'at home', and getting it all balanced for that and then there is boost, level 4, which is 100%. Level three is set halfway between 2 and 4 and level 1, which is unoccupied, is set halfway between zero and level 2. Our system has run automatically, without a humidistat, for 2.5 years 24/7 on level 2. Our system has a built in EASHP which warms the air if required and, if running, that increases the speed to level 4 for around 15 seconds and then modulates down and varies the speed to what is required to provide the desired volume of air to maintain house temperature.

No the fan speeds are adjusted in order to help balance the system.

A farmer around here had a barn that hadn't been used for agricultural purposes on the dates required for Part Q. So he took the modern door off put a straw bale in the entrance took a picture and said it had been used for storing fertilizer. It's now been converted to offices.

What do you want to include in the costs? Do you have all the tools you are likely to need. Could easily spend several thousand if you need a lot to do it yourself. Are you going to use an architect for planning or building control. Are you going to include the cost of say a 100m2 terrace paved with Welsh slate. There are so many variables I don't think it is a good way of budgeting. On Buildhub you are comparing people who do it for a living with people who have never done it before with people on their fifth self build. Unfortunately you are not comparing apples with apples using cost/m2.

That's something I just do not understand. Our system supply runs at 30% all the time and is not audible even with my ear next to the vent. The extract runs at 45% all the time and is audible but only in those rooms with an extract vent. I fitted an attenuator to the supply side but didn't to the extract side as I didn't think it was worth it, but with hindsight I might have fitted one. I wouldn't dream of reducing the ventilation at night.

Schock black composite granite sinks.

I think you'll find it's very dependent on where you live as to how Part Q rules are interpreted. Down here it's pretty relaxed. There was a small timber framed barn in the orchard next to us which was dismantled and completely rebuilt with new timber and roofed with slate when the original was tin. Roughly the same size but looks completely different. On a farm a mile away from here they are at present dismantling a timber barn and there doesn't appear to much of the original left. As I said it's down to the local planners as to what you can get away with, not necessarily national guidance.

Hi Kastro, welcome to the forum. As you have probably already found there is plenty on here about UFH.

No you don't need a cavity as @PeterW says. Unless, in your case, a cavity wall has been specified for structural reasons because the original wall is not sound then EWI is a common way to improve single skin walls.

@LSB has already said they have permission to build the cavity wall outside the existing wall.

As the walls are single skin blockwork couldn't you fit external wall insulation and then use whatever rainscreen you want such as timber cladding, brick/stone slips or render. I would have thought that would be cheaper than building a cavity using blocks.

It took us all day to set up our system. It isn't possible to set it up accurately if it's windy outside. I've never checked the CO2 levels but the humidity never increases for long before going back down to normal levels and our system has stayed at setting 2, out of four, for the last 2.5 years.

I like the look of it, not so sure about the price, but you're loaded so go for it.

Have you seen this thread?

What a lovely position. It looks like it's all coming along nicely. Well done.