Gone West

I can't see why that wouldn't be a good solution. I like the look of the tiles you can fit onto the base which I guess would give a good finish inside the shed. https://www.thegardenrange.co.uk/p/garden-base/non-slip-rubber-base-tile/

It's on Wayback. https://web.archive.org/web/20200923193339/http://www.mayfly.eu/

Looking at that picture showing the condensation around the edge of the glazing and on the wall next to the frame suggests to me that the frames are not very good quality. The only way to keep the condensation at bay is to keep the temperature up in the house and ventilate to reduce the humidity. A dehumidifier would reduce the humidity and provide some heat.

Hi, welcome to the forum and good luck with your project. There is a steel frame barn near us which has just started being converted. At the moment just a muddy site with some steel poles and an asbestos roof but judging by the details it will be worth the effort for the profit and looks. I wonder if it will really be finished by the summer. https://www.rightmove.co.uk/properties/88266919#/ https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=!AKXhl1BDFv7NI-Y&cid=14065BEB27289790&id=14065BEB27289790!1124&parId=14065BEB27289790!250&o=OneUp

I can't see how his idea will heat the house. With his best estimate, after several years, of 17C for the surrounding soil temperature it can only help in reducing the amount of heat required to keep the house warm. The heating requirement will be quite high as there was no underfloor insulation nor attached to the concrete. The measured temperature was 13.5 at the time. It will need a heat source like most houses IMHO.

You need a 'Full Overlay Plus' hinge in order to have a different thickness door and side panel with full coverage of the side panel edge.

Not quite sure I understand but aren't the side panels double thickness and the door doesn't have to be the same thickness, mine aren't.

I made a cupboard in the utility room with louvered doors and it took me ages to work which hinges to use from the Hafele site. I went through all the diagrams showing different overlaps etc and got there in the end. https://www.hafele.co.uk/en/product/concealed-cup-hinge-95-standard-for-up-to-28-mm-thick-doors-full-overlay-mounting-click-on-arm-tiomos/000000fc0001664100010023/#SearchParameter=&Category=pKgKAOsFlooAAAFev2d9OkCL&checkbox_fs_hinges_model=Grass+Tiomos&checkbox_fs_hinges_opening_angle=95&checkbox_fs_hinges_overlay=Full+Overlay&checkbox_fs_hinges_product=Concealed+Cup+Hinges&@P.FF.followSearch=9940&PageNumber=1&OriginalPageSize=12&PageSize=12&Position=2&OrigPos=1356&ProductListSize=3 I used these in the end. https://www.locksonline.com/Concealed-Hinges-133/Grass-TIOMOS-Clip-On-95186-hinge-full-overlay-plus-mounting-68747.html

It seems a very steep sloping garden because can't both sets of neighbours see into next doors gardens from their conservatories. Maybe it's the camera angle or something but it looks strange to me.

Spring's around the corner. We went for a walk this afternoon and saw our first flowering daffodils, plenty more in bud.

There have been several Class Q conversions around here. The farmers nearly always play the game and end up with a nearly new building. They never remove everything in one go, so I would put everything back that you possibly can as it was. This shows a conversion that ended up with a slate roof and white plastic windows, nothing like the drawings.

What's the immersion for. It could well be using a lot of electricity, have you tried turning it off.

It will overheat in the summer and be cold in the winter. If the wood burning stove is used it's not an 'Eco House', what ever that is. It would have been better if the concrete had EWI and then it could have been heated in many simple ways.

I fitted our plasterboard at an angle to increase light and foamed it in with Soudal low expansion foam.

You have to wait for the concrete to go off and then getting a good finish with power floating is weather dependent. It started to rain towards the end of ours being power floated and so we have an area which is less smooth than the rest. It would have been easier for us if we had used self leveling concrete and a bull float.

As I said earlier in the thread we had C35 power floated for our slab but now I would use self levelling concrete and not bother with power floating.

Do OVO get the RHI payments or are they paid by the Government in some other way.

Read it at your peril.

Sorry.

Why do I keep thinking of Zoot's thread.

'Fairly key' is a bit of an understatement as far as installation is concerned.

That is not something I would contemplate. I would improve the doors, windows and insulation but is there anything wrong with the five year old boiler and tank. I think having an ASHP fitted could well involve a lot more in running costs and there may be issues finding ASHP repair companies. Welcome to the forum by the way.

We had a self build account with Jewsons and the manager gave us a list of all their stock items with the reduced price we would pay for each item.

The book I mentioned explains balancing radiators and all aspects of CH in simple terms, it isn't highly technical.

I'm not sure he wants to get all technical, just to be able to understand how things work and why.