Gone West

Where did the 15% come from? When designing my house I ran the PHPP for a range of internal temperatures and found at 21C it would use 15kWh/m2a and at 23C 20kWh/m2a so around twice the difference that you indicated. My design may have some peculiarities or the site position may cause some differences but it seems a lot. 20C 12kWh/m2/a 21C 15kWh/m2/a 22C 17kWh/m2/a 23C 20kWh/m2/a 24C 23kWh/m2/a

What about something like a 600W ASHP in a 100litre Ecocent.

Don't worry about it. It all fades into distant memory with all the other things to work out.

It wasn't our best moment when we found out that the whole insulated slab had to be cut up and removed .

Strangely I agree with some of the comments from the Sunamp supplier. I wouldn't consider PV as part of my space heating solution. I also have a dry house and I wouldn't choose a wet space heating system in a modern well insulated house. I would separate DHW and space heating systems and use a small dedicated ASHP for DHW and an A2A system for space heating and cooling. There is a member of the GBF who heats their house with A2A and is happy with it.

The AECB are having a free webinar next week about retrofitting doors and windows. https://zoom.us/webinar/register/WN_1uK7p_5qReKaYEqHhf5tqg

Knew about it but never used it during our build.

That is quite possibly the case with most buyers. Not me though, having UFH would make me think twice about buying.

As you don't know the OP from Adam, that statement seems a little unfair.

Friends of ours built a house in 2011 and used Nu-Lok with their built in PV modules and have been happy with the system especially because they claimed the full FiT payments.

When I connected my metal shed to the house supply I used a TT system, (think that's the correct term), with an earth rod which earthed the metal shed and the supply.

I am not an electrician! but was wondering how it is all earthed.

We have a similar problem. Our sensor is above our front door and out of line of sight of car headlamps. When a tractor goes past with high level lights, which are out of line of sight of the sensor, the lights come on. I traced it in the end to a reflection off a front window and onto the sensor.

@Bartholomew Looking at the link you posted it says:- 'We have seen many people try and save time and money by leaving the frame in when they try to block up an opening but this never works.' I would use concrete blocks, you can still put cladding on.

Welcome to the forum and good luck with your project. Everything is fixable, just might cost a bit. Show us pictures of what you're doing to the bungalow, we like that.

I don't know much about building basements but it would be useful to know whether the water table height varies over the year. If it drops a lot in the summer, as it does around here, then it's much easier doing that type of work in the summer.

That is the water table. When you dig the hole and remove the soil hydrostatic pressure pushes water into the hole in the same way that a spring finds a weak point and comes out.

I have a ground floor stack for a single toilet and basin that has a 50mm AAV and it's worked fine for three years and the BCO didn't say anything about it.

I agree, but not everyone is so lucky.

I would remove the door and frame and use concrete blocks tied to the existing wall to fill the hole.

There have been several prior approval applications for Class Q GPDO around here where it's quite relaxed and depending on your LPA you might get away with the Class Q conversion taking more than three years but I wouldn't rely on that. It's clear in the regulations that if a Class Q prior notification application is approved the applicant has three years to complete the conversion. With a planning permission the applicant has 3 years in which to start the conversion and once started can take as long as it takes to complete it. A full planning application would assist overcoming this strict and very tight build schedule but could be more hassle.

I designed our system and there were no problems with BC.

Our house has 350mm of Icynene in the walls and roof and the smell disappeared a day or two after being installed.

Correct, but that's what I found, in that Engineers seem to have their own vocabulary for fixings and the the rest of the world use different terms. Other than Engineers if it's got a self tapping thread, it's a screw and if it's got a machine thread it's a bolt. If it's got a self tapping thread it's got a point on the end. It doesn't seem anything to do with the type of head, or length of thread except for Engineers who can call similar fixings, bolts or screws because they have different heads.

When doing it on brickwork it chips off all the distemper and leaves a surface ready for plastering.