Gone West

@Onoff yes the first one was the one I saw. I like the idea of using a reciprocating saw. Plenty to think about.

Thanks Clive but the grid size is a bit small for what I want. I'll try P & W Nash as you suggested. I saw a wheeled one on Youtube which has given me an idea.

No I don't have. I will be doing this job over quite a long period of time and I would like to be able to use the same riddle later on for screening our garden soil.

I want to grade my crushed rubble manually through a 50mm sieve. I was thinking along the lines of a 600mm by 600mm riddle with a 50mm welded steel mesh base hanging on a frame which allows it to swing. I haven't been able to find anything like it or even find steel mesh offcuts, at a sensible price, so I could have a go at making one. Any ideas?

They were the company that we used for our Icynene installation. They're based in Thanet.

I may be completely wrong but isn't that U factor of 0.11W/m2K better than the standard 300mm twin stud wall with cellulose insulation which I thought was 0.12Wm2K. So why not use it?

The last one I hired, three or four months ago, had a cab radio and keyless coded push button start. Things have moved on since I last hired one, posh indeed.

I already had a water meter installed for the bungalow before I started my new build so all I did was to extend the existing supply to the new house. Southern Water were not involved. The BCO was not really interested in the mains supply to the house and all I did was tell him what I had fitted and he was quite happy.

Hi Jason, welcome to Buildhub. Friends of ours converted their bungalow into a house which ended up being very large. They were lucky they didn't need to alter the foundations and they had the whole building sheeted so the conversion was unaffected by the weather, Good luck with the project.

Do all the landscaping and driveway and generally take it a bit easier than last year.

We have built a house using a PH raft foundation with timber I-beam walls and roof. Am I correct in thinking you are stick building on site with the I-beams or are you having the frame made off site then erected.

Always viewed from the front so just swap the flexis over.

Here's hoping, well I'm only three years younger than his parents.

Can we have one please?

Sorry I should have said. We used BuildZone for the site insurance and we use Aviva for the buildings insurance.

Ours is timber frame with all timber cladding except for a brick slip plinth and we didn't have any problems getting site insurance or buildings insurance.

This will show you where there's radon. https://www.ukradon.org/information/ukmaps

I used my PHPP instead of my 'as designed' SAP, which the BCO was happy with, and had my 'as built' SAP and EPC done by a chap in Medway without any queries. He was the first person I went to, I may just have been lucky.

Our walls and roof U value is 0.1 and our main heating is supplied by electric towel rails in the bathrooms and a small area of electric UFH in the kitchen. This is so that the rooms with a ventilation extract are always warm. We are lucky because our ventilation unit has an EASHP built into it so the supply air to the living rooms is never below room temperature. I would have thought that an electric post heater would be a good idea. When designing our house, before I had found the Genvex Combi, I had looked into using an electric post heater to ensure the ventilation supply air was always warm.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Sounds like you're a good match for another member @Onoff.

+1 to 3M Command Strips, we use them all the time, much easier than anything else unless it's really heavy. You can get the hooks in clear plastic now I believe.

We designed our house with all the water supply and waste in one quarter of it. That included a downstairs wet room which in theory should help with any possible flooding as we also had level thresholds for downstairs internal doors.

@joe90 This table shows what I used to set up our ventilation and may be of some help as a starting point. MVHR Calculation.pdf

We're lucky because our MVHR has a built in EASHP and the supply air temperature is never below room temperature. It also automatically turns off the supply fan if it is unable to deliver air at or above room temperature.

Our upstairs temperature is around 22C and downstairs around 23C, if it wasn't there would be complaints. 16C maybe toasty to an Innuit.