PeterW

Cheap formica that has lots of wax on it works really well - it is the corner radius that causes problems normally with any moulding. Rebar in the back and plenty in the edges gives the reinforcement. There are some really good videos on YouTube that show how it's done from the inside out and they start with a pretty flat surface and then polish rather than grind. This is one - plenty more though

None at all - you may need to adjust your chemical routine though and test it more. I'm planning a 5um filter - more then enough to take the rubbish out. Your filter on your pump on the hot tub will let sand though I expect so don't panic ...

I've looked at rainwater instead as its easier to process. Filter at the gutter to get all the big stuff out - we have trees so gutter hedgehogs are a no-brainer Filter at the downpipe to get the sediment out - Wickes do a really good settlement style filter Buried IBC tanks under the patio to provide a lot of storage and settlement for fine silt (tank 1) Final filter at the tank is then on the pickup for the pump - can be backwashed if needed without opening the tank. Jet Pump with an auto switch to provide the pressure into the house sat behind a 5um filter and a charcoal filter No automated top ups to the tanks, just a simple level switch in the tank and a hose into the closest downpipe gully Total additional cost for that lot is about £400, equates to saving around £130 of water a year so it has a short payback for me.

About £400 worth of parts in that lot... Header tank looks like a Polytank header tank, pump is a chinese stainless submersible, and the filters are pretty standard stuff. The underground tank looks GRP, but it also mentions a Bromine dose which appears to be using a tee'd spur that recycles some of the water back to the tank. I would query the capability of the system not to either under or over dose based on that solution, and also the maintenance of the underground tank components.lA Also makes no mention of BS 8525-1:2010 which is the standard for greywater systems. Greywater is a headache as it needs a full set of additional pipework running alongside the ordinary soil system which will double the price and complexity. It also means your soil system isn't getting as much flow - this sometimes helps to keep pipes clean and free running so make of that what you will...

Standard grinder at 10k rpm will destroy the diamond pads - 2-3k at most, even slower with coarse stuff otherwise you will just rip the pads to bits. And lots and lots of water ..!

I don't have an architect ....

They leave a gap of about 20mm between the pipes. What we used to do was to slice the top off both pieces of insulation along the slit side to make a "D" shaped section. These then sit tight up to each other and just get taped at the joints top and bottom. You end up with an insulated figure 8 that works fine.

Can anyone point me to some well worded submissions on NMAs that won't raise the hackles of a planning officer ..?? I've got some minor amends to make and they would all bar one be within PD post build, but it's easier to get them in at the start. The oddly contentious one may be the removal of a single dormer and replacement with two roof windows as MoE, but this is supported by the neighbours as otherwise the dormer is straight overlooking their garden. It's also a fugly design that matches nothing - one single 2m wide dormer in a 15m roof plane and it's about 4m from one end ..! I'm also "correcting" an issue from the original submission by removing an existing window that doesn't actually exist. Did wonder whether to ignore this but I figured it was a bit of give and get for me making the changes I want. I've done some notes that clearly show we are removing and reducing stuff, and I've read the NMA guidance five times but I guess anyone's actual experience is appreciated !

Ok just to clarify you would need to have on the decision notice a paragraph detailing the condition such as : (X) to preserve the character of the area, all windows should be (...) in accordance with English Heritage document (...) etc etc Have you got a link to the decision notice ..?

Just as a completely random idea - how about the tee from a downpipe diverter for rainwater as they are 65mm round to a 25mm ish flexi normally..?

There is a pretty big bank under the remaining trees where nothing seems to grow - they have gone into that area and will get raked about as a mulch which will make life easier when it comes to weeding and so on !

Just be aware that the Kevlar in bike jeans makes them abrasive resistant not cut resistant. Chainsaw protection comes in two different methods - the first is a cut resistant layer, the second is a mat of fibre that gets pulled into the chain and jams the drive pulley and chain. The reason for this is that a chain is doing 11-14m/s and friction alone will not stop a chain. You can get decent chainsaw chaps for about £30 which are perfect for occasional use. Chainsaw gloves are a must - they have the same padding on the back of the hand and protect from being drawn into the chain. Helmet, visor and eat defenders are definitely needed for petrol saws - some electric you can get away with no ear defenders but I find mine keep my helmet on too..!!

That Hitachi one appears to be a split unit - needs a refrigeration engineer to fit it if that's the case. 14kw monoblock can be had for less than £3k if you shop around. Your other option (if it's for DHW and UFH) is to use two smaller units and run the curves differently so you can optimise the water temperatures.

Pretty much, yes ! They have 2 connections to water - some have an internal circulation pump so you don't need to put that in - and it's just the basics of a strainer on the inlet and a filling loop somewhere. The electrics are usually a 16A supply (check this in the manual) via a double isolator, and then the control wires. Some have a nice unit you can basically plug in with 2 wires and also use as the room stat. The "commissioning" comes with changing the heating curves etc which is done from the command unit although a couple of professional installs I've seen recently didn't even change the standard settings.

Which ASHP are you looking at and what is the heat load ..?? You can get up to 12-14kw ASHP for less than £2k and they are pretty much self install. Oil is much more than that and you have the ongoing service costs etc.

Thanks @Ferdinand - agree you do need to know what you're doing. Always amazes me you can still walk into the local B&Q and buy a chainsaw and not have to get any safety equipment at all ..!

About £110 a day, £500 for a week. It was unbelievable how it just chewed up the Leyllandi and other stuff. Last thing though was a 6" holly trunk and it didn't even blink !

Had a long day today taking out a series of trees that had seen better days - and decided to hire in a chipper..! I've used them a fair bit in the past, but have usually used Timberwolf but the hire company dropped off a TP160 tracked chipper, and words failed me ...! Its swallowed everything I've pushed into it and being tracked it had made life a breeze - if you need to ever hire something like this I can't recommend them enough. This is it swallowing an 8m Leyllandi in one go.

I had a wire that went through a wood - it took 3 attempts to get BT to go to a duct as it regularly was snapped by branches in the wind ..! Even the engineers said it was mad not being in a duct. Shame when they came to reconnect it the master box and wire were 20 yards away from where they started....

Had to take one out to cover the cost of a private road (only access) being closed off by an unknown owner and it was £145 for £250k basic cover and then £35 per £50k above that.

Is that an installed price ..?? How much per square metre...??

Most of the cost in worktops is the cutting and polishing - there isn't a huge material variance so it's not a true economic choice. I've also heard that the thinner ones need a strong and perfectly level sub base on the cabinets to stop any stress cracking

I've got a Rapesco 181EL one which seems to be what you're describing. I think they are now Tacwise 181ELS units ..?

So if you are creative you can add to the current footprint without getting planning for some pretty low cost extensions. These include lean to and other structures and as long as they are not requiring building regs you can quite quickly add to the footprint of the house assuming PD hasn't been used in the past and you aren't in a conservation area. When you go for planning you have the double whammy of a larger footprint to start with, and probably an eyesore the neighbours want shot of !!

You can get a ballpark from plans for about £150 online - just check it carefully and then use it as a benchmark to get pricing for the things you won't consider ... Its what I did and then built it up as a proper cost book that can also be used to track pricing.