PeterW

Hand plane ...!!

I think there is a setting in your preferences for the site about notifications - have you tried disabling all of those ..??

Nick - what thickness do you go for....? Given I would be ply on a 22mm chipboard T&G that is glued and screwed to I-joists at 480mm centres, would 6mm ply work as we're surely in the realm of diminishing returns..??

Do you need MCS to get payments..?

5 years from the looks of it.

Square edge will dink quite easily - worth bearing that in mind. It will also wear through any paint quicker than a bullnose.

PU in a cartridge ..! Forgot about that one @JSHarris..! I used this a while back - just checked and it's still sold by Toolstation http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p78519?table=no

What about CT1 in beads about 250mm apart and round the edges ..? Any flexible construction adhesive would do - it's not (hopefully) going to get wet so you could also look at the Stixall/Gripfill type ones too I would think for ultimate adhesion you could use a full coat of epoxy but it would be a bit expensive ..!!

Astroturf ......??? In reality no, but the broadleaf grasses will not be affected as much as the very fine grasses although if you dilute the spot as soon as possible you can sometimes cause less damage.

Cold roof only needs insulation at ceiling level - start adding it further up (especially with PIR) and you could create a condensation problem.

http://www.dupont.co.uk/products-and-services/construction-materials/tyvek-building-envelope/uses-and-applications/warm-pitched-roof-construction.html BCO is wrong ..... bit at the bottom says how the membrane is used in a warm pitched roof And this is the accredited detail from the planning portal.

If they are going to be painted then why not get 2 150mm boards biscuit jointed and glued up as a 300mm board ..? Would be cheaper than 300mm

Wait til you try and claim.... I've noticed some of them are vague - I am trying to get the definition of "site hut" confirmed, and what they will and won't pay out for if I use a secure container for storage. Its taken 2 weeks, and I'm still no closer !!

Slightly lost here as to what your plumber is suggesting..? you would need two circuits - DHW and UFH - with a UVC so the boiler would directly connect to the floor when the UVC didn't need heat. The UVC stores a bulk of hot water and does not have a secondary coil you can use to pull heat from it. I am not sure the plumber is au fait with underfloor heating ...

That will be very nitrogen rich and also difficult to get a fine seed bed. Better off with topsoil and a proprietary fertilizer and get it nice and flat. Never heard the straw one - it acts as an insulator but would be a bugger to clean up..!

That second one looks very clean ..??? are you planning on welding it up and plating over for additional strength ..??

I've seen them at various heights - I'm sure someone on here said theirs were at 300mm above ground level..??

What is the soil type, what are you wanting (bowling green or meadow..?) and what's your budget..?? The place we use is this one - Grass Seed Store - they are very knowledgeable and will provide what you need at a decent price. The key is preparation and watering - seed needs to root down through the top surface so its best to mix in any fertilizer into the seed base and top off with a fine (25mm) layer of topsoil that is used as the seed bed. Seed needs surprisingly less than you expect per square yard, don't be tempted to over seed an area. Watering is also very important, get a decent sprinkler and ensure its set up properly and check the soil is damp to about 50-70mm down to get seed to develop roots below the superficial surface layer.

Is it LABC or private BC..? They may treat it slightly differently due to one being commercial.

Ok - probably worth deciding up front how you will be developing. Are you looking to do this as a limited company or a sole trader ..? This influences how the form will be filled in, and for some insurers that will also include status of the company / trading arrangement. If you've already decided that, you will need to put in place various "systems" such as a Quality Management System (QMS) and the processes you will follow to ensure a reasonable quality level within the build. These don't need to be onerous but they do need to be thought through and documented as they may also form part of any JCT minor works contracts you put in place with any subcontractors. The main question is do you have to build both together ..? If you built the first one as a self builder and moved into it, whilst building the second, then it would allow you to be a "self builder" with the benefits of retaining both the warranty and CGT rules as long as you live in both for 12 months each if I've interpreted the rules correctly !

Hi Anna - is this the self build application or the small builder application ..? If it's the latter you may find very few of us have the experience of filling in the builder forms.

Put it on the seat of the digger ... I dare you ..!

Its working constantly on low speed. When the system is activated in an extract room, either by switch or a sensor in the duct (humidity from a shower etc) then it activates the boost. Is it a new build..? If so, getting a unit that is SAP Q listed makes life slightly easier. Start here for a good overview BPC

There are a few = Buildzone, Protek, Buildstore amongst others. You will find the underlying insurer is normally Zurich though so don't expect huge variation in price !

Glad you found us Moira ! Lots of familiar names and faces I hope ! Can I ask how you found us please..??