PeterW

That's about list less 25% Have you tried National Plastics..??

65mm brick..? My issue is we're on imperial unless I want a join so its limiting the choice. Just spoken to another reclaim yard so I may have a different option to pursue.....

@joe90 where was that from ..??

Shouldn't need hammer with a hole saw..! I take stuff apart and regrease the gearboxes fairly infrequently as they should be sealed - may be the cams/rockers that are worn

125mm all the way - it's only going to give you 7mm wriggle room all round which isn't much.

Is it me, or is brick pricing a dark art that is basically a con trick ..? I think I've found a reasonable match from a major BM chain and they currently have it on their offers page. Problem is my local branch (~2 miles) doesn't have it in stock. The next branch (~15 miles) do have it, and have 9,000 which is what I want ..! Bizarre conversation with the local branch as I've basically been told I will have to pay more for them to buy them in direct from their supplier and pay the delivery of £300 as they are not allowed to clear out another branch of stock ..!! Can someone explain that please ..??!

If this is for a conservatory or orangery type room, cooling rather than heating may be your issue and if it's not an integral part of the build now have you considered something like an air/air heat pump ..?? Cheap and effective and gives cooling as well as heating. Are you talking about insulating loop circuits or insulating a new supply feed and return to a separate manifold if you go down that route ..??

Door should cover the carcass within 2-3mm - a 600mm carcass should have a min 595mm door

Ok so who removed the old windows ..?? And is there an invoice to say you paid twice ...?? If the 'new' company had to remove and replace then they may have a point, but if you can get an invoice with supply on it then you can claim the VAT back. Otherwise if they had clear openings to work with I can't see their issue ..??

So why is the slotted horizontal but the Philips slot vertical ..??!!!! aaagggghhh...!!!

And I still do it on hinges and handles ...!!

You will struggle on the cover as I know someone else who did ! Commercial ones are really designed for carpet tiles and are very loose fitting. Your other option is stainless and flush but these stand out on a floor. Other option is to get a stainless frame made and a suitable infil - that would allow you to use whatever you want and only have the edge of the frame showing although when something was plugged in you would need to leave the infil out.

Those steel doors look very good ..! Will be considering one for ours as I want the garage to be secure.

Any uPVC has an aging cycle that will mean it becomes brittle over time. Dark colours tend to expand and contact more, leading to creep and seal failure. You can mitigate this a little by using silicone grease on the seals before installation so they slide rather than jump when expanding. Brackets usually get broken when the correct expansion gaps aren't left.

There isn't enough heat from a pair of 15mm pipes to heat the air gap under a cupboard - you need much more than that. You can insulate the pipes but it becomes counter productive as they wont benefit from the warmth of the slab when they are in use. Can you identify where a potential secondary manifold may go and run pipes to that point ..? That may help you better then you can run the outer room off a different controller potentially

Was that for raw galvanised or the powder coated stuff ..?? Can you PM me the details ..??

Has the manufacturer sized it..? And if you have trees then put root guard sleeves on the soakaway pipes or you will have a pipe full of roots in no time ..!

Was that direct from Roofart or via a merchant ...??

Although it would still be working, it would just be pushing effluent into the leach field rather than treating it first in the tank. The purpose of a septic leach field is very different to that of a package treatment plant that discharges virtually clean water. They degrade over time and if it's already 20 years old it will be well past its best. If you have the budget, just replace the tank with a package plant and it will be good for another 30-40 years at least.

Is this in lightweight blocks ..?? Easy DIY job but get some close fitting specs and a decent cylinder mask as you will need it ..!! Ideally do it when there are no windows in the building either ...!!

As someone else mentioned, running a washing machine into a macerator keeps it nice and clean. BC would have something to say about reusing the septic as it would need to be tested etc on the drain test. Macerators can take water from a full bore shower and they are designed for this sort of stuff.

Second one - no ! First one, Stuart Turner do one that takes WC and shower - a Washing Machine would be equivalent to that and if you drop them a message they will confirm it. http://www.anchorpumps.com/pump-type/domestic-macerator-wastewater-sanitary-pump-sets/stuart-turner-wasteflo-sanitary-pumps/stuart-turner-wasteflo-wc4c-slim-domestic-sanitary-macerator-pump-for-en-suite-or-toilet-shower-hand-wash-basin-and-bidet-46653

Fibre can sometimes cause the concrete to thicken so you will need to keep an eye on the slump and how fast they work the slab. It's usually so fine it doesn't cause problems with polishing as the fibres get trimmed off by the process. For the added price per load my supplier gives, it may even go in the foundations ..!

I'd avoid one if possible - saniflow or something similar in the utility would make it easier and cheaper if the WC is only used occasionally.

10-15% is not unreasonable - higher on the lower value contracts as they're covering the hassle factor. Materials mark up is around 5-15% depending on what it is, and the mark up on client supplied items is 10% to account for handling. Also factor in if you under order then it's not unreasonable for the contractor to charge for lost time waiting for materials.