PeterW

Don’t forget to put backdraught shutters in the lines near the fans then if you’re using a single hole - you should also increase the last combined section to 150mm to deal with the increased volume of both (plus any pressure loss ) and use Y branches not T branches, all of which adds to cost. Why not just run both out side by side ..??

@WoodWorrierwhat is the span between walls..? And what spacing have you got the joists planned at ..?

Yes although some models need a fused spur No you need to use stuff that is suitable for boiling water discharge

braided or shielded Cat5E FTP is equally as good at stopping interference but tbh the packet management in the network devices manages that for you anyway. As @dpmiller says you can run some pretty hairy things near Cat cabling and it doesn’t notice.

Ok so @bradR first question is how thick is the concrete ..? 100mm..?? 200mm..?? 50mm..? Depending on this you could just shot fire standard clip rails to the concrete then use a liquid screed over the top but you’ll be limited on your floor finishes as that will be a minimum of 40mm I expect.

Yeh the pattern on those tiles match the bottom of the skip I had a month or so back …. Does he want their number ..??

Video calls use very little bandwidth due to the codec used to transmit/receive. Even 4K streaming only uses 25Mbps so you’ll not hit the Cat5 limit. If you’re really desperate then go with pure copper not CCA but short distances it will not impact. The slowest point will be the router or the switch - a lot of the provider routers also only priorities QoS on the WiFi so unless you have carrier grade switching you’re not going to have an issue.

Depends - some have the pump inside but I only spec / fit Wilo now so noise is irrelevant. They are quieter than a church mouse farting

Make the cavity bigger ……??? How much insulation have you got in there anyway ..? Moving up a size in ties will be pennies, it may add 5% to lintels but tbh the cost of cutting 2000 headers is going to be north of £6-800 so it’s easily offset.

you ideally need to leave 15-20mm cavity as there is very little wriggle room with full fill rigid and it can be 5mm oversize on all dimension.

Why do you want to muck about to take 2-3mm off a half …?? Just split and be done with it ..? Lever block splitter is ok but depends on the brick type / frogs etc.What bricks are they ..?? And has the bricky not priced in doing Flemish already or is he on day rate ..??

noise will drive you nuts as the small ones vibrate a lot and the cabin will amplify it

They worked for him - leave him alone ..!! 🤣

Cheap and cheerful acrylic sealant will do

No bracing needed - that silicone topper plus the cement will hold it rigid as it isn’t long enough to move in the wind. If you need to brace it for peace of mind then use the proper brace for the twin wall.

@zoothorn as @ProDave said, you need fire cement so get a tube of this as it makes it much easier to fit with it Arctic Hayes 665207 Vitcas Fire Cement 310 ml, Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08DLNW8RP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KQ52VQAZE77RGB0NNHVV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

They won’t be suitable for what you want as it will basically create a 50mm floating slab over the concrete that will only be 10/15mm thick in places. It will crack. I would potentially use bonded rails and pipe and a liquid screed or even up the size of the slab and put the pipe in the slab wired to the reinforcing and forego the screed altogether.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265164100337 fits on a G9 threaded converter. other option is an E12 to E14 SES adapter then you have lots of standard bulb options.

So you can buy the G9 globes on eBay for £5-15 depending on size, and e12 to G9 adapters are readily available so you could do this with some bits. G9 halogen are also available for a while too - the LED versions aren’t the best.

Yep - cut to the rough size then Chuck it into a sink full of hot water and it will soften. Then slide down the chimney section, hold down temporary with a few bricks on the ally flange and when it cools and dries properly just stick it on with some decent adhesive and some short screws and penny washers.

5mm you could plane the door.

@zoothorn here you go https://www.rackingsolutions.co.uk/44-piece-wall-mounted-tool-and-bin-rack.html

Have to be the same and tbh if you’re not building the staircase yourself then suggest you plug it into one of the many online stair design products and play with it there. Pears Stairs is one of many.

What triggers the ASHP to heat ..? Tank stat on the buffer or something else ..?

Probably means that the right hand long wall will not be secured to anything front or back (or roof) so it may move if you catch it. May be worth taking down and rebuilding at a later point to be safe.