PeterW

Why..??? Just go with a pair of 200 UVCs, one place, one system. Use them as the dump loads for the PV and then only switch the second one on when you have guests or it’s in use. It’s a 3 way lever valve and a switch to put it into the circuit. You will never power a 10kw electric shower from a 9kW solar array unless they shower at 12 noon ..!

That will probably cost you twice what a decent extension will, and you won’t get the value back. I would write down what you need and then look again at your plans. There are lots of ways to skin this cat

Bedroom off a kitchen is a no - have to go through it in the night to go to the bathroom ..? I would leave the garage as is - they add value and that needs a lot of work to make it work. You could easily do an infil extension behind Bed 3, make half the old kitchen a utility room and create a really nice space without too much hassle. It will also be much cheaper than a garage conversion and less hassle.

Consider changing your plumber … what he means is he went into City Plumbing (other merchants are available) this morning for his usual coffee with 4 sugars, and the spotty oik behind the counter couldn’t spell m-a-n-i-f-o-l-d so he said they don’t stock them … so he’s decided it is too much hard work to find one for you from one of 10 online suppliers … If he can’t find basic UFH components, I would also question his pricing and also what he’s installing elsewhere. If he suggests JG Speedfit (as said merchant has it on offer….) then smile and walk away …

So put either a 400 litre UVC in, or a pair of 200 slimline in tandem.

For it to be an issue you’ll need to get the stack above 350°C all the way up through the roof - it will be the felt that melts first ..!! Carry on as you are, but a small extinguisher is always a good plan .! Aldi have them in the centre aisle this week for £12

That’s only 200mm up from where the 2 sections join - not surprised it gets hot as at the join to the enamel the inner and outer skins are connected.

@zoothorn the twin wall will get warm but nothing to worry about. How high up were you holding..?

SP1 is Hepworth 100mm supersleve clay pipe - not unusual to still see it specced as it it used in roadways and pavements. Could find it’s been specced to be adopted or connected to existing clay.

Toolstation do them on 3 day delivery as do Victoria Plum. When do you need it ..?

why..?? You only need to do the joints on cement board, with your approach you have 3 layers, 3 times the Labour ..? what size ..? And depth ..? Any particular style ..?

+1 to using any one of the many stair design services to confirm your design then get it built.

Moisture proof board I am assuming ..? And why OSB and PB when a single skin of cement board would be quicker and cheaper ..?

Plasterboard or cement board ..? The latter is a pig to adjust. Tray will be about 2-4mm different in size - usually less than dimensions quoted.

My SEng is probably 5 times quicker than the architect on CAD … and has all the standard details for connections etc pre-drawn so it’s definitely value for money.

As long as it’s not just a scout used building (ie has community access) then the CAF funds are good. Used to be called WREN and there is a lot of money available. https://fcccommunitiesfoundation.org.uk/funds/fcc-community-action-fund

Scrap the mist coat, buy Super Leytex and do your base coat with that.

No it isn’t. You need to register with the ICO, pay £35 annually and make sure you have signs up saying cctv being used for crime prevention purposes. What you cannot do is install it in changing rooms, showers or bathrooms.

Is he getting a Hetas approved installer to fit it or doing himself and asking BCO to sign off ..?

Quick sketch with some varied size circles on it to show “x no Quercus Rubus, y no Crataegus monogyna, specimen Betula Cordifola etc etc” to provide a varied and natural sight line to the location … don’t put too many big trees, and don’t space them too close together as they will need space to spread - the good news is that as they want it then it becomes VAT deductible.

+1 to this - and blown fibre has a nasty habit of settling over time if not done correctly. I would only use beads or batts but at a significant thickness

Ok you need to read the whole of Part L, not just the limiting factors table. The limiting factor is the maximum - a new build will only be passed if it meets the whole unit spec and the overall target emissions values. With an extension it is different and you may be tacking a well insulated box onto a drafty cow shed - the difference is as a whole it will improve. It’s also very difficult without taking existing structures apart to understand their build up, so the regs use a risk averse approach and assume the existing fabric is poor.

Stairs looks like bodged and dried out decorators caulk - dig a bit out and see if it’s a hard whitish filler. Ceiling is a settlement crack where they haven’t boarded to the edge of the room and bodged it with some skim coat that has cracked. Built by one of the big 4 house bashers I assume ..??

https://www.appliancecity.co.uk/refrigeration/wine-coolers/freestanding-wine-coolers/bosch-kwk16abgag-60cm-undercounter-dual-zone-wine-cooler-black/ Says in stock..? There are some on Edison’s auction site too from a liquidation sale if you can sort shipping from their depot

Just a hob or ring main too ..? If it’s a 6mm for the hob (current dependent) and a pair of 2.5 for a ring main / sockets then use 40mm waste pipe with slow bends or pairs of 45 degree sockets on the ends to bring it up where you need it. Pin it down to the insulation and concrete over.