PeterW

If it’s a 3m ledger then 5 M12 will be fine - would make them every 500mm if he started 250mm from each end. Couple of extras as spares / packers and he’s sorted.

Like the above but I am going to have to suggest a slide for the kids …. Just build a decent landing zone ..!!!

50x3mm box section frame fully welded with a 150x5mm plate backing that is resin bolted to the wall at 600mm intervals. Then the timber is over the top of that. The issue is both ends floating as they are where it will bend so you have to build the steel torsion box first.

Where the red arrow is there should be something supporting the joint / pipe for the soil stack as it comes through the floor as that will twist in time. I’d also want the shower waste clipped every 500mm to stop sagging. noggins should be fitted where the purple line is - either Z clips or screwed to the joists in line with the lower edge of the joists as otherwise there is nothing to tack the ceiling boards to.

Yep - carry on !

Why so many condensate drains and what are they for ..? And why an external soil stack ..? Can you not get internal ..?

No issue with the gap where the soil goes through but it needs supporting as does that shower waste, plus there are no ceiling noggins at the edges which will need adding.

Yes however the blockwork behind is level / plumb so the trick is to cut away the render with the cheapo flat blades then work from that. And do you really mean 2” deep waves ..???! That’s a massive difference ..!

All this plus 1..!! Only amendment I would make is drilling 5 holes 25mm offset from the centre line - 3 up and 2 down if that makes sense so you have the top 3 50mm from the top, bottom 2 in the gaps 50mm from the bottom edge. Will stop it rocking and easier to level. Agree with using 14/15mm holes and aligning as you go.

Got any BFO M12 stainless heavy washers too ..??

M12 tops - don’t need anything else tbh as at 600 centres he’s got no issues. 3/4 would work fine for that I would think.

Sorry !! Got told off for using 6x2 and 4x4 etc and now drop to metric ..!! @Onoff is correct in what he’s said..! @zoothorn 50mm forstner or flat bit will be fine in an electric drill - just keep it square to the leg..! for your lumpy wall, you need some short lengths( no more than 40mm) of 25mm steel conduit and a couple of cheap disposable 25mm flat bits. Mark the wall, drill through the render in 5 equal spots until you hit the blocks. At this point you can drill 80mm into the block (mark the drill bit ..!!!!) and use a resin stud and insert a 200mm stud. Slide the conduit over (paint it beforehand inside and out…! ) and then you have 5 nice studs to anchor your wall plate on to that are just proud of the render… drill the wall plate to match, studs through with washer and nut and all done. simples …

Easy way on this is using scaffold poles (assuming you have access to some nice big Forstner bits..??) Shape bottom of the 150/150 post and drill out 100mm with the forstner to the size of a scaffold pole. Knock a 450mm length into the bottom of the socket so it’s tight. Connect your legs to a 150/50 with 2.No. Coach bolts in the face of the posts and also add a temporary brace about 600mm from ground level. Now lay it out in front of the house so the scaffold pins are toward the holes / house. You can now raise the lot into the upright position, brace against the wall and it will all work fine. Just level the top rail, plumb the uprights and concrete the lot in - you could even use 2 or 3 bags of postcrete to make the job quicker.

nah this looks to be the right size …

I use thIs guy now for all my glass - he’s only on Facebook but they have 2 or 3 units crammed with glass that is either taken from offices or has been cut / sent wrong to jobs and they buy it for peanuts. I got 2 900x700 10mm toughened panels for £35 each … He’s even got some 21mm triple laminated walk on glazing ..

Ballustrade must not let a 96mm ball through the gaps ..

Did they screw the frame to the timber ..? And is the timber bracketed or screwed to the wall..?? If so, it shouldn’t move at all.

they will be 9” or 215mm solid walls. I’d ignore the SEng spec and get 215x65 concrete Naylor lintels and put them on their sides - much easier to get hold of and no gap for wind to whistle down. Also need to check his sizing as 100/100 isn’t a standard size - 100/65 or 100/140 are and you may find they are in stock and cheaper to either stack 2, or use the 215 on its side which is normally more than adequate unless there is a point load.

Wouldn’t have without - plus that concrete box will need it and it won’t have the ventilation flow of a normal structure. It’s not “something else to go wrong “ as it’s basically a fan in a box and not much more besides !!

Totally agree with this - downside is a lot of people don’t understand the language or terms used, and a lot of good builders can’t explain in words what good looks like ..!! Don’t go quoting “roof to BS1234 etc” as they will have no clue ..! And tbh most customers don’t know what good looks like, and most can’t tell if stuff is done to the spec the architect/AT/SEng/QS wrote anyway … it’s one of the reasons we don’t do direct to client work…

And do what ..?? Are you an expert ..?? What if the bottom 2 courses of an 8 course block wall aren’t to your liking ..? Are you wanting the whole lot taken down and redone and at who's cost ..?? Build a relationship and trust. Talk to them, explain they are building your dream and not just throwing up just another box. Buy the bacon cobs on a Friday morning, make a brew occasionally… pick up a brush and do some tidying … but above all, treat them like decent humans who are earning a living doing something you either can’t or don’t want to do … Finally … don’t assume they are all the same please, it will get you nowhere… trades talk, and if the builder thinks you’re an arsehole, then the local trades will all soon know too …

the average person uses 120-140 litres per day, so 2 people will use 240-280, or 1/4 of an IBC per day. You’ll need a lot of rain to keep these topped up…!! I’m also pretty sure you need to get water supplies checked by the council if they aren’t mains supplies but may be wrong. Not sure either on the issue you are trying to avoid ..? Levels of fluoride in U.K. water supplies is very low.

You’ll need some serious filtration / treatment for using rainwater for household use as potable water and you’ll need about 6,000 litre storage not 2,000 as you will run out. If you are concerned about fluoride in water then just fit reverse osmosis filtering on the mains water - cheaper, safer and never runs out like tanks do.

The rapid ones go off in 3 hours ..! Only needs to be 2-3mm thick to cover the worst of it. Block any big holes but small ones are fine - bit of filler if you’re really worried. Toolstation sell the Mapei compound which is good.

+1 to this. Use the proper primer, get the floor “sopping wet” as Uncle Nick always says with a cheap mop and then make up the compound with an extra litre of water per bag. Then let it flow … isn’t that right @Nickfromwales..??