PeterW

Is that a masonry chimney next to the outlet ..? Why not cut into that inside ..? Ridge outlet would be challenging but a decent roofer could make an apron for the flue. I would create a box with a flat top level with the ridge tile, then bring the flue through that and put a lead cloak over it. Bring the flue up the middle and then weathering collar over the top. Not quick or cheap to do but would be watertight.

You can get muck chains or carbide chains for saws depending on what you’re cutting - these don’t blunt as quick in dirty wood. Get the chainsaw vertical and plunge cut around the centre as that is where the main tap root is. Errr … poison..?? Only thing you need is decent root killer such as Glyphosate in the correct formula and whack a load of copper nails around the edges to stop the cambium layer growing (which is where you’ll get regrowth). They will take a few years to decay - I’ve seen them up to 20 years old still like rock though so you may need to be patient ..!!

Long SDS drill .. you can get them up to 1m long in 12mm and 15mm. Drill at a 30 degree angle and put 2 or 3 shorter rods in, then grout in place with cement slurry.

Not on the Beko - it is a combined heater and pump unit. @AdamD they are £130 plus an engineer to fit so you would be cheaper buying a new dishwasher and run a fortnightly cleaner / descaler through it https://www.espares.co.uk/product/es1784148/dishwasher-heater-pump-motor

Spot on job - To set and cure the fire cement it needs heat so I would do a small test burn, then do another a bit warmer.

Appliance City have them in stock

Nail pops - has the board been hit..?

If that is part payment of the invoice presented then it does create a legal precedent so may not be the best approach. @Ralph you may want to ask the plumber to reissue the invoice for the agreed element which you will pay on receipt, and then help them pursue the builder for the works paid through the central contract.

Longest wall at 3.6m is fine - what openings are there in the walls ..?

These are CANBUS controlled - so unless you can find a controller then it’s not a quick fix

IVT uses 0/24v normally on the control pins. Got a better close up of the control connection points on it ..

@davidc have you considered a log gasification boiler and a larger (~3000 litre) TS in an outbuilding and then you can utilise the biomass much better. I would still put a smaller UVC in the main house envelope as the primary hot water source along with the primary solar dump but it would even out your usage. You may find yoh can get RHI for the right set up and also it allows for segregation of heat sources. Your log burner then becomes a smaller focal point / secondary heat source

You don’t need to skim MR plasterboard but you do need to tank corners and where it joins floors etc.

The control system cuts off the temperature when the PCM is all liquid - you can’t overheat them and they have numerous overheat stats to stop damage.

+1 to this - you’ll get no benefit and a TS in a thermally efficient house is also an odd choice, what is heating it ..?

makes no sense. You can’t “overcharge” a Sunamp - when it is full it is full. With a cylinder you can overheat to max the capacity, taking the UVC to 85°C is easily done using your diverter so why not do that ..?

When you do this, wrap a couple of times round above and below where you do the cement with some masking tape and then when it’s dry just peel off - leaves a neat line then

Needs a thin bead on the outside edge where the rubber meets the twin wall but it doesn’t need a lot.

@zoothorn the screws are fine, carry on The connector/adapter one is easy. Stand the ename pipe on the floor and put a good lather of fire cement onto the top edge of the pipe and the adapter. Push them together and then wearing gloves, reach down inside the adapter and you can feel the bottom edge of the adapter. Using a damp sponge, push any excess cement up into your join and smooth it out the wipe any excess off the outside and wedge the whole pipe somewhere upright for the cement to dry. When that is dried, fit the enamel pipe into the stove, clip the extended twin wall into the top of the adapter and you’re all done.

Download LoopCAD and you can design your own quite easily - it runs for 30 days on the free version. You can pick up all of the parts on the internet but avoid the cheap manifolds on eBay.

So usually you leave the blocks out and build off the spine wall below and infil either side with cut blocks if needed. Never seen a structural wall with a beam and block sandwich as there will be voids under the blocks.

Did you go through a pipe or is that surface water ..?!

Looks excellent ..! Just get the ground works back to straighten that left hand path though as that edging board is bowed …. 😉

Yes - see above. When you have this lot all done up there will be no rocking as there is mm movement in those rubber seals when they are fitted.

Using a decent angle grinder disc, cut 20mm off the male end of the enamelled pipe. This then will sit nicely inside the ring plus a nice smear of fire cement will seal it all.