PeterW

Ironmongery Direct has some spend level discounts this weekend

You need to use Nitrile Rubber so Armaflex or InsulTube. All are suitable but the preference should be one that is also UV rated which the solar ones tend to be. Armaflex

Yep pretty much universal in fitting.

12v 1A if you search the model number https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/REPLACEMENT-FOR-12V-1A-AC-DC-ADAPTOR-POWER-SUPPLY-FOR-YHSAFC1201000UK-/401496717438

Never seen that before other than for runs to kitchen islands etc. and even then it’s ducted.

Similar from the LABC Technical Manual

Proper way for drainage is as per what @bassanclan says. Wrap the shingle and the pipe in geotex

So they take a load from the frame ..? If so they are wrong - need to be at least precast 30N padstones as a foundation block isn’t anywhere strong enough. 10N at most. Wbats on the drawings and the spec..? And is that a big concrete footing underneath it or just MoT1..?

Start with the UK Air Quality database as a source for the data. Industry emission data is already available as a source - not sure its publicly available. There are a number of data reports around vehicle emissions and NoX / Particulate that give current and forecast. Statista will also provide install data and other information pertinent to the calcs. NAEI is also worth using for validation - again, it’s all publicly available.

Nothing to do with some "picnic eggs" and a "Henry nappy" eh @Nickfromwales...?? @ProDave I think you can link these too so you can trigger the ASHP from a single unit. Little Willy had the joyous job of finding which one of the 80 permutations of wiring pairs connected the 4 manifolds together when we were with @newhome

good article here about paper vs plastic or foil HeX cores http://www.air-creation.co.uk/uploads/files/Downloads/Lossnay Brochure.pdf Most - not all - commercial units are paper as they don’t need to have a drain port.

I can categorically tell you that wood burners are the least of the issue ..! NoX and particulate from vehicles is vastly higher than industry which is again vastly higher than domestic emissions. The low hanging fruit is vehicles - this is underway and there is zero desire from UKGov to touch industry so the next target is domestic as it’s an easy hit as there is very little by way of coordinated lobbying at domestic level to push back so it’s an easy win. Banning wood burning stoves in domestic environments will make less than 0.1% impact on current levels.

Errr no ..!!! Rubber will compress over time and your lovely wall hung pan will crack the plasterboard or tiles it’s hung on ..!! Noise from a WC is the transient noise as the flush hits the pipework - insulate that, not the frame...!

I’m sure in the back of my mind Geberit warned Abacus over infringement a while back as even the shade of blue paint on the frames was the same... Manifold radial systems are worth investing in though for plumbing as it makes life much easier !

http://www.wundafloorheating.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/E09-Generic-wiring-Plumbing-Guide-Oct-5-2017.pdf wiring for it is E09 I think.

Overpriced and not the best quality.... They have essentially copied (like everyone) the classic Geberit systems that have been around for decades on the continent. If you shop around you can get the Geberit systems cheaper than Abacus and spares are readily available - I think Abacus spares are only available from certain suppliers. I looked at their manifold plumbing system and I’m pretty sure it’s rebadged Emmeti which is a very good Italian manufacturer but can be had for 50% of the price.

UFH is a budget option if you have the planning and foresight to put the pipes in the slab. Manifolds are expensive, controls don’t need to be. There is nothing wrong with running everything as a single zone and just balancing the flows to equalise the temperature. The issue may be an over zealous BCO who wants “zoned controls” although how you advise them that there is no heating in the upstairs “zone” is beyond me ... After having worked on one of the most complex systems I’ve seen (thanks @newhome...) that has 4 manifolds, 4 controllers, 14 zones and 15 programmable stats, the simplicity of a single zone and a constant flow is compelling. Furthermore if you have MVHR, you will need to be cautious that you are not really “not heating” a zone as you will be creating airflow between rooms constantly.

@lizzie as @HerbJ says this isn’t something that needs - or should have - anything changed in a balanced system. The difference is the material the HeX is constructed of which allows vapour diffusion rather than like the existing plastic film unit you currently have. A lot of the humidity sensors are designed to trigger boost speeds at higher levels of humidity. They have no reverse function to slow the fans or increase humidity so would be fairly pointless.

@dpmiller that is the ScandiaHus premium ... There are kits that are not as good but the quality is there on these but you do pay a premium. Their estimate is probably on the high side too - last time I saw one of these it was something mad like £45k for kitchen and £30k for bathrooms in the end finished price.

Yeh that will be about 400kg..!! 2” middle and 3” edge is about 220kg...

Page 24 I reckon you can find them cheaper.

It’s a 90 second job and the unit is £815 at full list price.....

Valves should be on flow and return. All the manifolds I’ve seen have slotted fittings for the manifold rails - slack them off and bring them together so the pump fits.

Ok £100k is achievable but you will need to work at it. Sounds like you’re off the main sewerage network so it’s a treatment plant. Plenty on here that have them and can give you prices. A rectangular box that is 8m by 7m will give you 4 bedrooms upstairs - 3 at 3x3.5m, one at 4x3.5m with an ensuite as a master. Not big but still workable. Bathroom would be 2x2.5m Downstairs is open plan 8m x 3.5m kitchen diner, lounge of 3.5x3.5m then a study of 3.5x2.5m WC in the remaining space. That is 112sqm roughly and you could do it under £100k If you don’t go for £4K bifold doors and £20k triple glazed Ali clad windows etc ...

Flat finish ..?? Or textured ..?? If you want flat then get some contiboard and create a box about 3” high and the size of the table. Seal the joints with caulk and wipe to a nice finish then put 3 or 4 coats of cheap car wax on the lot. Make a dry-ish mix of 2/2/1 aggregate sand and cement and with SBR and water to wet it out. Put half in the box and tamp it with a bit of 4x2 until it’s nice and solid. Add a couple of U shaped threaded rods, add the rest of the mix and tamp/level until it’s all solid, cover with plastic and leave for 72 hours min. Drill your table to suit, bolt onto the top and get 4 strong mates round ... tip it over, take the edges of then lift the lid off. Bit of 180 grit will get the crap off it, leave it a couple of weeks then whack some concrete sealer over it ...