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PeterW

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Everything posted by PeterW

  1. PeterW
    Save your money and ask on here..! There is more real life experience and data within this forum than any consultant could give you, and renewables only form one part of a very complex relationship in the M&E plans for a build. Often overlooked but vital to getting it right - MVHR, water, heating, electrical all need to be planned and designed.
  2. PeterW
    @JSHarris was considering that for an underground rainwater tank.
  3. PeterW
    Egg cup of bleach once a week sorts most of the nasties in a water butt.
  4. PeterW
    3rd row 2nd tile needs to be rotated 90 degrees.
  5. PeterW
    Spray the thread and the top of the can when you change cans and get all the foam off before you put a new can on and that doesn’t happen ...
  6. PeterW
    What’s an architect ..?? Did plans and BRegs submission all in Visio along with calcs for steels ... £50....
  7. PeterW
    System is sending them - check your spam folder
  8. PeterW
    Agree @Declan52 but wouldn’t that put DPC 375mm above ground level so either you have to do a depression in it to get doors in, or some pretty big ramps to meet Part M..!
  9. PeterW
    External DPC to internal FFL will be a challenge based on that as you've got a minimum of 195mm to add to your build up internally. I'd drop the first outside block on flat and come up again with a block.
  10. PeterW
    What’s wrong with traditional ground bearing slab ..? No-one is mentioning passive slab here - if you want speed, low cost and simple then ground bearing slab (with UFH if desired) is the lowest cost and most well known solution that’s completed in the shortest time. I would never want water under a floor - that’s a sure fire way to get damp and settlement issues.
  11. PeterW
    B&B isn’t the only answer though - it’s quick and simple for volume builders and allows for pretty poor prep and you can just drop them on and you have a working floor.
  12. PeterW
    Worth looking at some of the low impact build techniques such as screw piling so you remove the need for concrete and heavy materials in the first place. Small Telehandlers such as the Merlo units are great - they will be able to work on a tight plot and are surprisingly powerful. Lots of solution opportunities (rather than challenges.....!)
  13. PeterW
    Why are you tanking Aquapanel which is by definition waterproof.... Do the joints and the pocket edges etc but unless you're going to have seriously bad aim, around the WC is pointless. And as @Nickfromwales says - this needs to be done the day before tiling and you don't want to be putting joints in it...!
  14. PeterW
    Are you casting the heads yourself..? What's the mix ...?
  15. PeterW
    First question ... got a plot layout or street plan..?? If materials in is an issue (assuming it has PP at this point) what is the gradient etc for getting services in and out..? Sounds like a candidate for a sewage pump irrespective of the need for it for falls etc.
  16. PeterW
    Welcome ! We have a few north of the border so ask away ..!
  17. PeterW
    Piece of 4x2 assuming they are 100mm blocks or leave them and put your 10,000mm vent gaps in the heads for the MVHR... hide it behind the architrave
  18. PeterW
    Assuming you’ve measured to the nearest point on the pot, then your 2300mm is correct and your 1000mm would be measured from the back valley of the chimney and roof to the top of the pot. Are there any Velux windows in the roof ..?
  19. PeterW
    Hi Nathan and Welcome ! By chimney can I just confirm that this is a class 1 flue (woodburner or stove etc) rather than a gas flue ..??
  20. PeterW
    Can't see an SE signing that off as the ring beam is structural and tying it to the piles is usually how they create integrity minor bridge probably means the square area of each pile will conduct heat from the slab - with 30 piles at 300mm on a 90sqm slab would be 3% of the total area - not a big issue !
  21. PeterW
    Welcome !! Is this a keeper or a fix and flog..?? If you need the honest opinion I would walk away - 2 bed terraces (unless they have a very low start price) don’t have big returns and you’re talking about doing some real structural work on top of a major refurb then your returns are going to be very low.
  22. PeterW
    So if you have a propensity to ground water and potential flooding, the last thing you need is an underfloor void of ANY form, vented or not, as water will find its way in !!!! To get anything like a 150mm cavity, 150mm beam, 120mm insulation and min 65mm screed, you will end up with your void at 180mm below ground level which is not ideal in a flood zone
  23. PeterW
    - Brett is the Rolls Royce of guttering - it has some really nice features such as recessed fittings to cover the cut ends of pipe etc.
  24. PeterW
    Concrete Slab vs Beam/block is an interesting concept - consider them if you don't have clay soil. Where a sub floor void exists you are supposed to ventilate, but removing the void removes the requirement.... Any reason for B&B btw..?
  25. PeterW
    Depends on who's rules you read...
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