PeterW

Have you considered hit and miss fencing ..?? Quicker to put up and you can use off the shelf stuff such as 6x1/2 for the boards and it’s easier to repair. You can also use stuff such as 6x2 for the rails and cut them on an angle to get your drip edge.

@Nelliekins you’ll find people will follow where things are pretty quickly ..! You’ve been set up with blog rights - go the the blogs page and you’ll see a “create blog” link.

Doesn’t matter. Pressure is measured from the hose outlet to the bottom of the cold water tank. Whatever route it takes is irrelevant.

That’s your issue - pump is seeing about 2ft drop which is not enough to get the pressure switch to cut in.

I’d use one of the bonded flashings such as Sika Multiseal and tape it up the wall behind the barge board.

Isn’t the hot on gravity ..?? If so, the tank pressure drop won’t be enough to trigger the pump as they need to see a bigger drop hence why when you put the shower head 6ft lower the pump triggers. Some pumps are adjustable but you may need to lift the header tank to increase the pressure drop.

You’ve got 1:33 or so, that’s not a shallow slope and will shed water quickly. The wall detail will be the main point to get right as it’s there that water may pool if it snows etc. Worth looking at ensuring that is as watertight as possible and the lower end is free flowing.

Like as @Crofter says - make the worktop wider or overlap some of the tambour front cupboards onto the worktop and use to hide the appliances. If you make them deep enough to take the deepest appliance though it may take up too much space although most come as a cupboard so the gap from the wall can vary. Could even use slide out shelves if you really wanted.

All of this becomes irrelevant if it’s not the only loo on the ground floor.... But I’m so looking forward to this - it needs a proper sound effect though when it opens ..!!

Really wouldn’t bother with the hassle of pallets unless you have unlimited time and unlimited pallets. They can be useful for making a raised floor if you have enough of the same ones, but will still need 3x2 to keep them square. I’d do a simple structure of 3x2 clad with OSB on the inside then stack around with straw bales - not much will like to live in those tbh as they are too dense. 6x2 as ceiling joists resting on the top walls will give you plenty of strength. If you need a “window” then create a gap in the bales and bridge it with a couple of scaffold boards as a lintel - as long as it’s not got a full bale over the boards it should be fine. No need to trim the ends - just offset the stacking and pin them together with lengths of broom handle. Ceiling insulation would be best with something like cheap fiberglass or Rockwool or whatever your local BM has a few rolls of.

Existing one should be fine as that’s a 47mm top chord with a 22mm board, putting the coach screw (or bolt..?) in the middle of the top chord. If you glue and screw 12mm ply across the front of the joist to give a flat surface for the channel to fit to, it will be fine. The rotational force will snap the glass before it pulls the coach screw out of the timber.

I’ve had similar although the roofers were the funniest when the apprentice got the job of cleaning the van one afternoon and he chucked £100 of scrap lead into my skip.... would be rude not to weigh it in ?

Unless you’ve got a 500 litre UVC planned..... you’ll need 22mm to the manifold as long as you’re not going stupid with the showers. Have you considered Sunamps instead as the heat loss will be reduced in a garage.

Manifold one and two are fine - don’t need the rest. M-One could be not recirc as it’s close to the UVC. Instead of putting a cap in the end of M-Two then just put a 22/15 reducer and run the pump for 2 mins an hour and it will keep the manifold hot. Use 10mm down to the kitchen taps and it will be quick. UVC in a garage is a bit of a heat loss - can you box it in ..??

Sounds like there’s a thermostatic rad valve on all rads, so when the UFH is satisfied and the rads hit their temperature then the whole lot shuts down and the pump is pushing against the closed valves. Automatic bypass may help - who installed it ..??

Start looking at another in a different country... and you’re nuts ....! *and I don’t mean Wales or Scotland ...

Looks great - when are you starting on your bathroom as @Onoff will have some catching up to do ...!

Welcome @Ian Nixon EE-03 low flow is a “standard” error on a series of Chinese heat pumps and manifests one of two things. Either your flow switch is not registering correctly, or the pump isn’t up high enough. The Chinese flow switches are not very tolerant to muck in the circuit, and since you have rads and UFH, have you also got a strainer or filter in the circuit too..?? It may well be clogged reducing the flow, or if there isn’t one then it may be that the flow switch is jammed which shows as low flow. If it’s one of the units with no pump inside then turn the circulation pump up and see if it clears. Do you have any pictures ..?

Bubbles is due to speed of expansion - if you use a gun, turn it down so you get a very slow bead with the trigger pulled tight and you’ll find it gives more foam to gas so the foam is more solid.

The BS is the same - colour depends on supplier and red is primarily John Brash who supply some monumental amounts to the UK construction industry.

Seriously ..??! Why on earth don’t they just fix the firmware instead of installing a frig..???

Its a myth....Methane Research

(Rise / Run)*45 = degrees pitch or (pitch*12)/45 = rise for every 12”

Energy Vault have got that in a pre production form now. Uses remote cranes and concrete blocks. https://qz.com/1355672/stacking-concrete-blocks-is-a-surprisingly-efficient-way-to-store-energy/

Of all that, the plasterboard is causing the issue as it has to be separated. The local tip here has a specific plasterboard skip and don’t seem to mind how many times you go to put stuff in it - in fact I’ve seen Plasterer’s vans there around 6pm .... If you can separate it out then the rest will be cheaper to get rid of.