PeterW

Warranty on pipe is irrelevant - it’s running at 2 bar most and even if it does fail, the warranty is limited to the pipe so you’ll be the one digging up several tonnes of concrete. Its really hard to crush it unless you put a point load on it so as long as you are careful then it’s not going to get damaged. Pressurising it with water does help somewhat with stopping damage but it’s not much in it tbh.

Intaklean body rotates 360 degrees so you can put it in a horizontal pipe but the unit has to be vertical and you have to be able to drain off from the bottom of it.

Tends to be Pex-Al-Pex or Pert-Al-Pert for UFH pipe in 16mm these days as it’s cheaper than using the PB pipes and the Aluminum layer makes it more stable. What it is and where is reasonably irrelevant but being in the middle of the concrete slab is better than being at the bottom.

Manufacturers Instructions...

If they are metal web joists with P5 or Egger boards then the D4 glue is your friend as it fills all the gaps anyway - just don’t walk below it when it’s going off unless you like cutting it out of your hair .... If you read the MIs you will find they say nail the first board only then the last - others just need glue. I tend to nail them about 100mm back from every T&G joint on every joist. No squeaks either.

HRM Wallstar combis are good and they have the burner through the wall so no oil smell in the house.

That’s done now though so what are you waiting for ..???

Yup on full chat it will be fine HOWEVER.... If you’re referring to the one that you’ve got next to the thermal store then it feeds both rads and UFH manifold and the manifold will be a higher resistance. You may need to up the flow rate on the manifold to make it draw off that tee as currently if both the rads and manifold want heat, the lowest restriction will be the first rad on the circuit.

He does but loses one point as that back right compression tee isn’t lined up with the one in front of it like the rest .... compression nuts look about 3mm out of line ....

Been wired correctly as that is the setting for a gravity system which yours was. Not sure you can change those controllers to fully pumped so if you redo it all at some point then I would change the controllers. You can get 3 and 4 zone ones now for very little money.

Just drilling a hole in a 500mm granite wall will take a hour with the proper kit.... and they are doing the lot ..???! I’d pass them the keys and tell them to crack on ..!!

915x2134 is a standard size, so with a lining, top and bottom gaps you would be packing around 90mm which doesn't seem too much..?

Does the work involve cutting through brick walls..?? If so, they will need pins and acro's along with lintels installing, brickwork removing and replacing and making good all the facings. Depending on size, £4k doesn't sound too bad..

Just fit a recirc one - there is no need to start cutting holes etc as that would be one job that you would regret about 2 minutes in...

You won’t strain a fan as the design means it can push against a closed port as they are low displacement fans. Can you adjust the fan speed on those units ..??

Ok so 24v from the B2/B3 and then 0v to the ground on the power supply.

How about buy 5 tubs of the Cura stuff that is the same price as one Sentinel product..?? Before I put anything in that system I would make sure there is a filter and strainer in the pipework to the boiler or you are asking for blocking up the heat exchanger with crap

Unless you are going several hundred metres and below roads and building 3 or more properties etc, it is pretty much guaranteed that you will use 110mm underground pipe. It’s the defacto standard for drainage.

Don’t do it unless you want to find every pinhole in every pipe .....

So are you saying that the flue fan is constantly running ..?? If so, that is a fault on the boiler.

Cura cleaner is pretty good and dirt cheap. I don’t use the Fernox stuff now as it’s far too expensive for what it is. TBH I wouldn't bother power flushing as you’re more likely to find or create leaks and wash crud into the boiler heat exchanger.

I’d use the coil for the oil, one for the solar thermal and plumb the rads and the wood burner into the tank direct as that then provides you with your heat loss circuit which you must have with a wood burning unit. Also means if you bin off the oil boiler for an ASHP then you’ve got a smaller circuit to fill with antifreeze. Leave the immersion for emergencies or when you don’t want to run any fossil based product.

Do not vent into an enclosed space !!!!! Use the recirc fan and add a carbon filter - they do work as long as you change or recharge them regularly.

That’s good then ..! Didn’t know they were doing tanks cheap still - did they give you an uplift charge at the end of the contract too..??

You may struggle to get decent water flow out of the AVC in that setup and as long as there is an open pipe to the header you won’t need any expansion vessels. You will however need a pair of headers - one potable, one heating, so there will be a fair bit of pipework to do to an attic. Has the AVC got a backup immersion in it ..?? Solar thermal needs a pressurised flow circuit with glycol in it so you will need to use a plate heat exchanger with the AVC as you can’t mix the boilers and the solar thermal with the same fluids.