PeterW

Looks a bit like mission control there .. Very odd piping of the mixing valves - where do the pipes that go up and over go to ..? Is that the UFH..??

Given it’s having potable water through it, I prefer it to be coiled and the ends sealed up to stop crud and nasties getting into it ..!!

Last in ground tanks we had were £2200 each, and that was for 2000 litre units.... and that was 4 years ago. Best supplier by far in that area is LPG Direct and they do underground tanks but I think they are rental only at about £20 a month.

Just be careful trying to flatten wood with glass...!! I would put a series of screws through the cabinet each side of the hob into the worktop from below

That's fine - max 120c which is well below any problem temperature for wood. Is it new..? Needs the gasket to take up the gaps around the edges and don't tighten it too much.

This is how they are allowed to fit immersions into UVCs as it provides the secondary link required on all Part G UVC installs.

What hob is it..?? I've fitted an Induction hob into the acacia stuff - glass doesn't even get warm on the edges. Hob units have fans built into them and this draws air up through the bottom of the units to keep the induction rings and the electronics cool. Most hobs just drop in but are centred by steel clips that hold it them in and also create an air gap between the steel box of the hob and the wood.

If it’s a BM one then there will be a part number cast into it somewhere

Nope - May look that way but the diaphragm moves down to allow air into the pipe.

Is the bath tap a mixer tap as if it is then it’s a no-no as the pressure difference will cause problems.

The problems with restricting it are twofold - you won’t get the full air:foam ratio so your insulation won’t be as insulating, and the chemical force of this stuff expanding is quite impressive ....

A pair of wedges will tighten against each other and be parallel. Screw or nail through one end will hold them until the glue sets.

Its hugely wasteful as you cannot control the expansion, let alone as an amateur. @PeterStarck had some ridiculous number of bags of trimmings from his installation and that was a professional install.

Pair of slender wedges driven in from both sides will sort the bottom one - top is glued and nailed to the floor so isn’t going anywhere. Given them both a smear of glue both sides and tap them together til they are tight.

Reminds me of a mate who like someone on this forum used to hoard and “repurpose” things and when the board went on their old dishwasher he took it into the workshop to turn into a parts washer - bear in mind this was a circa 1980’s dishwasher with an open element....... According to the report, the door opened with such force that it bent the hinges and bowed the sides of the old dishwasher so it wouldn’t close again ... he’d used a mix of paraffin and “something else” to clean some old land rover bits, and put it on a 70c hot wash ...

Other choice is to use three core and terminate the armouring in an adaptable box with something like a Piranha on the gland and then run the three core with its internal sheath through the wall. That would mean you have double protection on the cable a la T&E but have a separate earth running into the house for the armouring which only needs earthing at one end anyway if you use the 3rd core as the earth wire. This is what we did recently as had to run 16mm for a new feed and was quicker and cheaper than mucking about using the armouring tbh.

So @Nickfromwales do you not just use flexible tile adhesive on tanked timber ..?? Or is it adhesive for flat bits and no nails etc for for vertical bits ..???

16 it is then with that lot ..!!

Just double check you really need 16 to the garage too as you may get away with 10 or even 6 depending on what is going in there.

You can get them on eBay Manrose Back Flap

I fitted a backflap into one and it virtually stopped it overnight. Replaced the vanes on the outside with just angled vent with mesh so no clattering.

Not as expensive as you think. I looked at it for an extension and worked out about £60/sqm for the materials and it was done very similar to zinc or aluminum and folded on site into trays and then just clipped at the edges - think it was 300mm trays from memory. It takes a while to go to a verdigris finish and looks a bit patchy when it’s changing but end result was good. Only thing that I remember was the warranty was only 25 years I think for the thickness they use. This was the company from memory - they were Leicester based but worked across the UK

Unlikely as tile adhesive is usually a blend of polymer and cement based products, and plaster is gypsum based - they set and react in different ways. Just mix smaller amounts and do a couple at a time.

.... which under GDPR, he shouldn’t be telling you unless he’s already asked their permission to do so .... ? I’m interested in this system as it seems a blend of two or three of the methods but can’t see if they’re trying to engineer out the issues with ICF and Durisol.

Why would you want to..??? You could always shave the cat and add that along with peeing in it too... I’m sure there is someone on the internet who will support your idea .... just google it ...!