PeterW

That will be the number of watts or the %age power setting depending on the pump. Nothing to do with temperature.

Loads on FB marketplace. Newark and Worksop, all around the £30-40 mark. See if you can find a black one as you don’t get algae growth in them

Most are fine to -20°C - heat capacity of air is linear down the scale.

What is the water contaminated with ..? Could find that shell boring a new borehole would be cheaper. Also worth noting you need potable water to all inside taps - don’t forget things such as cleaning teeth etc !

@zoothorn I’m lost here … you’re building a balcony not a bridge !! It doesn’t need 6x4 on each side ..!! If you have bought 6x6 posts, measure them and inset the first joist by the same amount. Then “sandwich” the post between this one and the new outer 6x2. Will be very strong as the post will be supported 3 sides.

Assuming this has an auto bleed vent in the system somewhere and it’s got inhibitor in the system then it’s pretty normal to see some loss in the system until everything beds down. I would top up to 1.5 bar and then bleed all rads and any UFH rails, then check and top up again to 1.2 bar if needed.

Correct term is plunge saw … What are you cutting with it and what length are you looking for..? Keep an eye on Facebook market place as decent 110v makita ones come up for £100-150. Evolution are rubbish, Rutland not much better. If you have a decent circular saw then the Kreg kit is nice and not expensive. https://ffx.co.uk/product/Get/Kreg-Kma2700-647096807177-50In-Accu-Cut-Circular-Saw-Track-Guide

You also need to consider the cavity trays required here. You’re making an external wall internal, so above the roofline you should be installing a cavity tray between the timber frame and the blockwork. Also who designed and built the steel frame for the entrance as it’s normal for the post to go below the upper beams, not be welded to it. There also doesn’t look to be any lateral restraint on the steels to the walls. What is going to be enclosing the front ..? Glass ..?

Nice parapet !! Any way you can lift the coping stones and relay them over the top of EDPM lapped onto the blocks.

As long as the structure will take the weight yes, but you’re talking about adding 200mm of height at that point - that’s a very big ugly fascia at 400mm or more !

Looks like the stack needs a partial rebuild followed by new pot and suspended stainless liner for the stove.

You would need to cut back the wall edge and provide cross ventilation above the insulation and below the deck - min 50mm to be safe. Then VCL on inside of insulation and then board /skim. Alternate option is just put it over the felt, bonded on with any glue of choice, top with 9mm OSB and 150mm screws and washers into the deck and joists below. Extend the fascia’s up to the new level and EDPM over the whole lot.

Does it not need insulating ..??

Yep fine - but pushing it up tight under the cill may be ok. How thick are your boards and how thick is the edge of the cill..??

… and that is standard duct tape … I would get the rest of the house checked, including a full gas survey !!!!!

That 5” flue isn’t useable - it’s sealed with duct tape, makes me think it was put in for ventilation not a stove. Whole of the top of that stack needs coming off including neighbours side - it looks loose and will have been leaking for a while. You also need to get someone who understands how these stacks were built to look at that opening brickwork - blocks look new and very odd ..! Don’t forget your stove also needs a minimum 250mm all round so the sizes need to be checked.

really need to find a new plumber ….. the MegaFlo has an air bubble trapped at the top to maintain pressure and expansion. Sounds like it has been depleted (which the water temperature has nothing to do with) and he’s just recharged it. Should be a Schraeder valve on the top of the tank under a cover - can easily check it is set to 3 Bar with a standard car tyre pressure gauge.

Yes plus your mortgage company will require their asset to be insured irrespective of the state it is in.

I’m a partner in a design and consult business that does around 80-100 ASHP designs a year along with significant numbers of full M&E specs for LA and HA clients. What’s your experience based on ..? The OP doesn’t have this ! Has UFH and Rads ..??? OP has pre plumbed unit with an LLH already on it - not a buffer… you are also indicating this is manual in your system, 99.9% of the client base we have need automatic and simple controls. Poor design and not understanding the basics of what is being put into a spec is the core issue when end customers realise they can’t do what they want to do - usually because the incomplete requirements haven’t been passed on. Hypothetically* if an end customer came to us and said I want heat, cool and DHW, then there are a whole new set of questions to ask before a pen even hits paper…. *we don’t deal with end customers / individual clients and have no interest in doing so.

Who has maintained the land to the right of the wall ..??

That Samsung is normally a good unit so it’s down to install or config. Can’t see if balanced cold is installed or the fitter decided not to bother, and I “think” they have zoned the DHW on the bottom and then gone for twin zone valves into your heating. Got any photos of the UFH manifold ..?? And have you got the installer code to access the menus ..?? Need to see what hot water is set to.

to properly implement cooling you need to isolate the hot tank and all it’s circuits from the chilled supply - essentially you need to double isolate as these have twin pumps and you can get pull through on the diverter valves especially spring return ones. That needs additional valves plus the additional control logic to drive the correct pumps and isolators. on top of that, the FTC is dumb when it comes to variant zone control and essentially you could get the upstairs controls asking for heat fighting the cooling downstairs - you then have further zone issues as the internal pipe stats get very confused as they want hot not cold water … Furthermore, 150 litre tanks mean invariably unless you have a very small (ie 2 bed, 3 occupant max) property, the ASHP will need to run during the day. At significant cost over off peak night time running. These units are designed for spanner monkeys to plug and play into HA properties where they don’t have to think. They definetely aren’t designed for cooling or anything non standard.

With all due respect to everyone on here, the pre plumbed cylinders are expensive and crap. Very rare they are used as tbh they are a fudge. Sadly this appears to have the LLH plumbed in already (left side with AAV fitted) but none of it is insulated….. PHE is on no-ones drawings but is fitted to the tank - again, waste of time and is going to cause problems as it looks like it constantly draws water through the PHE to heat the water and the tank is just a dumb tank ..? Adding cooling to that lot is a non-starter - the diverter and temperature controls are locked in on the FTC which means it won’t allow you to change it. I would guess there is a bill for £3k min for the tank ..? Plus FTC (£800) and the ASHP (£3k)..??

Which is the point you’ve missed - hence my comment. You need to install a pair of diverter valves, or a full isolation set of 4 zone valves to make this work. It’s not a pre-plumb fit and forget, and it’s not just lob it in and it will all be fine. Given most pre-plumb cylinders are only really wired for S or Y using a standard 75°C boiler feed, a multi temperature setup such as this and the use of the FTC requires the plumbing and electrical connections to identify to the FTC what to do - that’s not possible with a single micro switch in a cheap mid position valve. So to answer the OP question, no, this set up using an unknown pre-plumb cylinder won’t work with cooling.

Your bigger issues are isocyanates not arsenic, and that you should be using a positive pressure mask not just a reactive mask. 2K isn’t something to play with - especially in confined spaces. If you want to paint that lot, just use the melamine paint and accept you’ll get a satin/matt finish Also, read this https://www.hse.gov.uk/mvr/bodyshop/isocyanates.htm