PeterW

Depends which one they are talking about as they have two models, one is a gas booster on the end of a standard air source heat pump. Uses the heat pump at max CoP (so A7/W35) then uses a small modulating gas boiler to pull the temperature up from W35 to W65. It can use the low return temp to manage the condensing on the gas so it’s basically maximizing both energy sources. The gas absorption ones are ok but they need to be big - think 18kW is the smallest they do.

Samsung 5Kw Gen 6 unit for less than £2k https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F223220316591 You would need to get a control unit for it, but that’s about £400

Part G of that tends to refer to twin wall flues and the like, not masonry chimneys. You’re right to question, but also go back to the legal definition of “reasonable” and apply it here - what would the ordinary man think is the answer ..??

Welcome. Not sure where to start with this, but that’s a background which I’m so sorry to hear. It sounds like you’ve had a lot of challenges, and self building somewhere for a future is an amazing goal. Purely on the practical basis, timber or log cabins rarely meet building regulations without a lot of work, and when compared to the costs of a more traditional build, you’ll find they don’t stack up well. There are a few members in the south west who may be able to help on the practicalities - plots and budgets will be where you need to start first.

TBH that looks like a macerator pump. And it will be very noisy. How much use will the WC get In the basement ..? Designing that out would leave you just pumping water up to the stack. Replacement pumping station tank will probably be £3-400 but is probably a better bet than a macerator system if you have to have one.

It’s fine - just make sure the DPM /DPC is properly lapped under the insulation and sealed properly to each other. The screed needs to be isolated from the outer wall, beams are effectively cold anyway so that’s not unusual into an opening.

Highly unlikely as unless that’s a massive chimney, a reasonable person would say it’s the front wall... Have you had a run in with them previously ..?

Panels have a life of 25 or 30 years - the ones at CAT are over 20 years old and still at something like 93% of initial install power, and there are some that were installed in Switzerland in degraded less than 1% per year and they were installed in the late 1980’s. As @ProDave says about the inverters, they probably have 3-5 years left in them, and if they are kept cool could probably go for longer still. Worth noting the aluminum channel will probably be worth £6-800 as it is - definitely the makings of a DIY ground array there !

Better one - about £45 per panel and 3 inverters thrown in too .. lower power panels but could be useful as 3 big ground arrays. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F372810076948

Guide from Simpson here - it’s the US one but the screw sizes and fixtures are the same https://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/wood-construction-connectors/technical-notes/fastener-types-and-sizes

Ok - in terms of Principle Elevation definition, it is determined by the “elevation” that contains the main features - the chimney in your picture is not contained in the elevation itself. Given it is probably only 2 bricks wide at most, it would be challenging to see how it could even be included in any decision, and none of the guidance refers to anything behind the line of the principle elevation, other than where a property is a “L” or “T” shape, or where bay windows exist (which are specifically called out in the guidance) Why are you concerned ..?

Plaster can set under water like cement - and is a total *^#¥$€ to remove as acid only partially works ...

It’s the one on the left And this may help you https://planningjungle.com/wp-content/uploads/Part-1-of-the-GPDO-Visual-Guide-FREE-VERSION.pdf

Most service heads (or supplier fuse connections) are secured using screws that cannot be accessed without breaking the seals. Short of moving the entire meter box in one go, you would have to somehow hope the whole lot could be moved off the boards without disturbing the cabling... and you’re dealing with a 500A breaker at the substation as your last line of defence as you will have no head fuse to protect you ... If you’re clever and move the new box close to the point the cable comes into the property then you won’t have to pay for new cable, just the connection.

@Nickfromwales is right here - for ultra low capital cost, and assuming you have a heat input that really is down in the low kW requirements then a Willis heater setup will work. At less than £100 to do, there is a real challenge to make a commercially installed ASHP pay at that point. @TerryE has this setup in his place.

is that because you lost your other foot in an accident ..??

@JSHarris that is a compression overflow tee connector. Neat way to install it.

McAlpine WM11 one has two appliance connectors. https://www.wickes.co.uk/McAlpine-WM11-Sink-P-Trap+Twin-Nozzles---38mm/p/226994 Not a fan of the Floplast one you linked as the horizontal run from the second sink can collect crud, dry out and start to smell. Much better to put a pair of traps on - usually works out cheaper too - so you can keep using one if the other blocks or needs cleaning out.

... and part payment of a debt is acceptance of liability ....

Has the gas been ok as I’ve found BeA and Fischer gas to misfire much more than genuine Paslode gas.

Possibly blown a joint or made it weep. Mains can be north of 4 bar, and pipework when it heats can add another bar so 5 bar in your old heating system and something may not like it ...

Could you use 50x25mm..?? 3mm is about the thinnest you’ll get at that size unless you got it folded. 3mm isn’t that heavy either - are you sure it’s going to be a problem ..?

STOP PANICKING ..!!! From this document which is the technical guidance on Planning Permission. Any buildings within the curtilage can only have one storey. Buildings with more than one storey are not permitted development and will require an application for planning permission. (e) the height of the building, enclosure or container would exceed - (i) 4 metres in the case of a building with a dual-pitched roof, (ii) 2.5 metres in the case of a building, enclosure or container within 2 metres of the boundary of the curtilage of the dwellinghouse, or (iii) 3 metres in any other case The height of the building, enclosure or container should be measured from the highest ground level immediately adjacent to the building, enclosure, or container to its highest point. As long as it has dual pitch roof and is more than 2m from your boundary, then it is max 4m from the ground next to it ....

Doesn’t work like that from memory - diverter just needs to sense there is more being generated than consumed and switches on. As @dpmiller says - need one with a wireless or remote current sensor

It’s 4m from the ground level so would be from the ground to one side - not from the lowest point. Stop panicking ....