PeterW

Not in England and Wales ... ? no minimum width requirement south of the border ...

Ok - you do not need Marine Ply..!!! OSB3 or Standard Exterior ply would be fine. As this is outdoors though, I would be inclined to do it slightly differently so nothing can get to the insulation. I would lay a 15mm OSB deck, then run a ring beam (simple 3x2 on flat) round the sides where the cabin will stand, and then infil the centre section with 50mm Celotex. Cabin floor goes straight on top and the sandwich is protected from the elements.

Which unit is it..? Any installation photos ..?

One screw and glue them on. CT1 would bond it too, or Stixall.

Clips every metre....

Looks to me they have misinterpreted your plans. Go back with a plan that shows where you are actually building

Any chance that the boards can also be glued on with D4 glue ..?? That is real belt and braces but would add significant additional strength

Didn’t realise they were still around - probably one of the first companies that did the whole packaged tank system from memory.

I have to ask this .... Why are you worrying about this now..?? If you agreed a price you found acceptable for solar panels, they have now been installed and are working satisfactory, and you’ve now been presented with the bill - that matches the price you agreed - why are you not prepared to pay it ..?? The supplier has done what they said they would, and it sounds like in moving from estimate to estimate that something got left in or missed, and you’re trying to query the whole thing ..? Turn it round - if the estimate had 21 panels on it, and you looked at the roof and counted 22, how quick would you be trying to pay the suppler for the extra panel ...???

They heat the air not the fabric, and would be using peak energy at a 1:1 CoP. An ASHP heated slab can use off peak energy and a CoP of 3:1, so essentially can create a heat store at 1/6th of the energy requirements of panel heaters. Cooling is more of an issue these days, and a cooled slab is very effective for the purpose of controlling overheating.

worrying unless they are properly strength rated due to differing stainless specs ... And I get your point on nails but these are for noggins hidden under a deck.

Ok last joist with the small gap, you measure the gap, attach a noggin of the right length to the joist, and then fit the joist to the hangers - just leaves you the open end to nail on.

you don’t need to equally space them. just do as I said, back to front, mark the outside edge of the Joists at 400/800 etc and then line the front edge of each bracket with them. You will end up with a smaller gap at the end. This is a shed base, not a bridge ....

Once a nail is buried into the wood, it will not rust ... Salisbury Cathedral has nails that are hundreds of years old in its roof and it’s still standing .... and they weren’t galvanized ..!!

Yep they will do. Crack on

Nope - 4” wires will do. Or even big screws, they are only there to stop the joists twisting.

Noggins don’t normally use hangers. You friction fit them then a couple of nails through into each end from alternate sides - hence why they are staggered.

Not really relevant with insulation but it’s more about structure and it “working “standard sizes.

front edge of every joist.

That looks tidy ..!! Well done ..! 400 centres - so basically measure 400mm from the outside edge of the frame, make a mark and then 800, 1200,1600 etc to the end. You’ll have a couple of odd spaces at each end but that is the quickest and simplest.

About £22/m looking at the price list which I don’t think is that bad actually. @willbish you will need to get the overlaps done well - oddly if you’re looking at lead rollwork like that, a church roofer may be more beneficial.

A bog standard sliding chop has a fairly fast running motor and some decent tolerance but is designed to just do wood cutting. The Evo ones have a slightly slower running motor so they can run different types of blades for different materials, and usually from experience have tolerances that you can measure with a yardstick ..... You can probably tell, I’m not a fan ..

@willbish just spoken to a mate of mine who said give Nicholson’s a call. He reckoned you could use their Airtrak product to do what you want but may need to lift the ridge roll slightly to get the ridge to settle at the same angle as the roof. Think this is the stuff he’s referring to - see VR200 https://www.nicholsonsts.com/sites/default/files/files/standard/AIRTRAK Feb 2017 HR.pdf

Doubt that would work but could see if it would be possible as you’d need to use a wooden roll profile on the ridge screwed to the ridge board but through the membrane.

Nope - not unless you can lift the ridge and create a continuous gap all the way along.